clubber

I re-looked at the website and it was as he has listed as the full refirb and core charge, just incase my carb wasn't usable, $640. My mistake on the amount but 640 is close. Thanks for the car compliment.
As for the PCV, I'll check it out.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Isn't the rebuild kit about $28?

clubber

OK, if anyone is still reading this, here's the latest; I've got it running but with three current problems.

1 It "leaks" gas from the secondary venturi's. This even happens when they are closed, primaries only, and the floats are at the right level and not flooded. I can see the sight glasses and the fuel level is about right
2 It won't run much at all after it gets hot and will never start when hot.
3 I can't get anywhere near idle, about 2K rpm. It seems to load up and die if I try to get engine speed any lower.

I'm planning on trying re-rebuilding the carb this weekend and I'll spend lots of time making sure the secondary jets and passages in the carb are clean and I think this will help the fuel problem. After that, I don't know what.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Item #1, about the only way that's physically possible is if the secondary air bleeds are plugged. The fuel levels inside the feeds have to rise higher than the bowl level in order to get to the venturis, and vacuum is required to make that happen. But if the bleeds are plugged, fuel can siphon up and out. Only other cause I can think of is that the secondary throttle plates are not truly closed, but open a tiny fraction, just enough to draw vac. As much as a thousandth could do it. Excess scoring of the secondary throat where the throttle plates close could also be a possibility.

2 is a pretty classic "too rich" symptom.

3 could be a byproduct of the other two.

Rebuilding and carefully cleaning the carb, including blowing out all the passages, and inspecting the secondary trottle plates/shaft to make sure they are truly closing. Inspect with a bright light on the opposite side. Should see no light leaking through.

Good luck!

bumpstart

#1 also happens in some carbs when the bowl vent solenoid ( if fitted ) is not energised with 12V or is incorrectly hooked up or calibrated in those carb s with the position switch


-- usually upon hot shutdown,, it will syphon from the secondaries and puddle above the closed throttles

if you have the mech secondaries mod,, this will amount to a flood the instant you move throttle

i 've already written it once in this thread ,, and got pretty much ignored

ignore so at your continued frustration ,, cause until its ruled out,, its very likely the issue at hand

conversely it may also be a faulty slow fuel cutoff solenoid refusing to shut after shutdown
( ive added that because at no time have you identified the specific model of nikki and they change considerably with the aux solenoids from 1971 - 1985 )

been there, done that,, over many many many carbed engines ,, trust me,, this issue is common , caused entirely by ignorance

bumpstart

and this bloke has said it too,, he is referring to the slow fuel cutoff solenoid in some later carbs

snwyvern

-- I'm talking about the "Fuel check and cut valve" which is located on the bottom of the chassis near the fuel tank. If it's plugged/otherwise FUBAR it will not allow air to leave the tank, somehow creating crazy backpressure in the return line, which floods the carb by means of rear entry.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

You'd be referring to this item:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=148

clubber

Well, I'll check to see if I have one of those but it's not an RX-7. it's an RX-7 drivetrain in what's basically a kitcar. Tomorrow is the day for the re-rebuild. Since I have no emissions equipment, there is nothing hooked up to the carb either with vacuum or electrical. Is that a problem? I was going to look at the stripped Nikki threads but almost all have no pics anymore. More to come, good or bad, tomorrow.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

So long as you block everything off properly, the lack of vacuum powered accessories shouldn't be a problem.

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

If the fuel bowl vent solenoid is not hooked up to a 12V ignition source it will create all kinds of weird problems. I'm seeing it mentioned in prior posts but then you saying nothing electrical is hooked up.

It's a solenoid pointing towards the drivers side top area of carb right behind the alternator with one wire coming off it. Touch it with 12V and listen if you can hear it engage to make sure it works. If it sounds good... hook it up to a ignition switched 12V and see if that fixes anything. It did for me awhile back, I was having all kinds of weird carb problems b/c of it not being hooked up. I couldn't believe that one little plug caused me so much trouble.

clubber

Bumpstart, I didn't really just blow off the help but to be honest, I didn't know what you are talking about.
The re-rebuild happened and I found three different passages that were clogged on the secondaries. I was much more thorough the second time and the previous experience made it much less terrifying. it still isnt installed yet and I haven't done anything yet about the fuel bowl vent solenoid but I'll get power to it before trying it.
After the findings I'm pretty hopeful about my prospects. Thanks to all for the help so far and I'll update when the carb is installed.

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

My vent noid shorted and almost caused a fire. I completely removed it and pup a soft plug in it. IIRC it was the same size as the intake water ports but I can't remember 100%.

Anways, I used the vent nipple and tied that into the PCV system before the valve. So my pcv goes manifold vacuum to the pcv valve, split to the oil fill nipple and carb vent.