1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Nikki pumping gas out of the secondaries

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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Nikki pumping gas out of the secondaries

Like the title says, Gas is POURING out of the secondary venturis all the time. I just got done with a rebuild so I'm quite sure it's my fault but since I'm carb challenged, any ideas? I'd not have even started this as my record is now at 5 rebuilt and 0 succesfully but since sterling has had my carb for over a year and now doesn't even bother to answer my emails, I tried to get a running car. Anybody know a business that will rebuild a carb? Unless I can get this working I'm being held hostage by a supposedly reputable business for time and all eternity. Sorry for the vent, any help possible?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Float needles are sticking. Give them a couple taps on top of the carb, if that doesn't cure it,
then pop the top off and try seating them again.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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^+1. Most frustrating part of Nikki work is getting the needles to settle in the first couple times.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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^+1 more
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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Smile

Yep, beating it up with a hammer did it and it's running (I actually just tapped on it). Thanks for the help, I sure appreciate it.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:04 PM
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So now you're 1 out of 5... Gives me hope to give another one a shot. I'm 0-3.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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It still has intermittent float sticking issues but it's running some of the time so there is hope. I'm calling it half running so far. Good luck on your attempt.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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this makes me nervous about the one i just rebuilt and am installing on friday
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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Nobody jumped on the "Sterling has had my carb for a year" comment? Isn't that guy on here somewhere? I'd give him what-for...
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:38 AM
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Make sure the passage where the needles go is clear of crap and ooze (assuming new needles),
same goes for the float hinges. Sometimes I would dip the needle in some motor oil before
installing it. That allows it to have some lube for initial movement, and it never hurts the motor
to get some extra oil down its throat
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:29 AM
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dont forget the bowl vent solenoid , can add an issue with an overflow after shutdown from perculation
needs as a minimum to be bridged with 12v from the coils
( and not from the wrong side of any points ballast resister )
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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I'm still having float sticking problems. I've ordered a fuel pressure regulator which will hopefully get this issue gone. I'll add stuff in a day or two if I need to.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by clubber
I'm still having float sticking problems. I've ordered a fuel pressure regulator which will hopefully get this issue gone. I'll add stuff in a day or two if I need to.
I did have a similar problem when i rebuilt my carb. Did you adjust the floats at all? I did that and it messed it all up. If ur not sure pop it off and at least double check to make sure that they are right. As for the fuel pressure if the pump worked before the rebuild with the carb no need to assume that its pumping out too much pressure now. I did see if you rub the new needles with ur fingers and some oil that helps to take down the rough edges and help them seat better and faster.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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I had the same problem. It turned out to be the fuel cut/check valve.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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Floats may be binding, too; either the pivot tabs bent too close together, or off-center and rubbing the bowl side. Doesn't take much friction to stop them from floating up; forces involved are tiny.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 03:57 PM
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As far as the fuel pressure being right, I bought this carb from a junkyard and don't know anything about it. The car (maxton Rollersakte) had a dellorto on it when I bought it. The carb is brand new looking but all the gaskets were dry rotted and it would sort of run below 3500 rpm and wouldn't run above that at all. I got a rebuild kit for it and tried rebuilding it but my kid got into the basement and ran all over with the carb parts. 4 year olds do that kind of thing. Anyway, i rebuilt it but obviously some of the very small parts are gone and the car wouldn't run at all. As a side note, if anyone wants to buy a beautiful Dellorto and manifold and you have the expertise to get it going, you can have it really cheap.
Then I got a junkyard carb and sent it off to sterling with about $700 and figured I'd get a carb back to use. A year later, I've given up on ever actually having a sterling carb. He's stopped responding to my emails about any status updates. So,I got a "new" junkyard carb which I've rebuilt according to the instructions on sterlings website. Now I'm trying to get it to run. The regulator will go in monday and hopefully I'll have a running car.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 12:38 AM
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Try lightly polishing the needles with wet emery cloth. This should get rid of any high spots.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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Burnish the 4 sides of the needles, don't touch the tips.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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I did the burnishing during the rebuild. I followed Sterling's website for closely. It's running at higher RPM's quite well, no load yet. When it gets to idle it runs terrible. I'm gonna search for a while on how to adjust an '80 for proper idle and get the throttle carble ends right and adjusted. Then drive it probably sometime tomorrow. It runs really smooth above 3K now. It's starting to look good for my rebuild to actually make it better.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Mine's always run less than smooth with no load. It's getting worse now, but seems like it's more tied to the ignition initially.

Give the engine some load and see how it does. How often are you free reving anyway?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by clubber
I did the burnishing during the rebuild. I followed Sterling's website for closely. It's running at higher RPM's quite well, no load yet. When it gets to idle it runs terrible. I'm gonna search for a while on how to adjust an '80 for proper idle and get the throttle carble ends right and adjusted. Then drive it probably sometime tomorrow. It runs really smooth above 3K now. It's starting to look good for my rebuild to actually make it better.
Any idea what your actual fuel pressure is at? A stock Nikki expects 3.7 - 4.7 PSI, and dislikes more than than that intensely.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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thats what i was going to say... do you have a stock fuel system? my OER does that with too much fuel pressure...
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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I have a Holley fuel pressure regulator with a range of 1 to 4 psi. It is in the "factory setting" which is half way so about 2.5 or so. I'll be getting a gauge soon for it. I haven't had it over 3500 RPM yet. I read the tuning troubleshooting info on sterlings website and I've got everything setup to start fixing the idle tomorrow. The throttle cable has the carb end on it now so I have a gas pedal finally.
It ran so good I'm finally feeling pretty good on the chances of autocrossing it on sunday. Floats are still sticking but much less with the regulator.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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if idle sucks,,and the carb is no longer obviously overflowing
just check that the PCV valve isnt jammed wide open making for a huge air bypass
it has a tapered seat so as not to flow massively at shut throttle and only takes a bit of carbon to stay stuck open and bugger up the idle
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Why did you send Sterling $700.00? His carbs sell for just over $400.00

Just curious... As far as lack of email response, I do know that he's been having computer issues. Some kind of virus or something, changing the date on his computer so that his emails usually end up going straight into your trash bin (due to the date on the email). You might want to look in the trash and see if his replies are there.

Good luck. Awesome car by the way.
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