New work, New camera, New pics
Yeah, there will come a day that I get on the bushing replacement regimen. It's a little further down the list.
The hatch: It was obviously a compromise in design to make a bolt-on replacement yet with a dramatic style change. It is nearly identical to a 1972 vette. A buddy has one and we've studied them side by side.
Someday, If I can get the right fiberglass man, I want to remove the rear quarter glass and remove the hatch louvers, then have the glass man extend the horizontal deck and extend the vertical over as well. I have sketched this out, and it would truly look like a targa. See, I tend to dislike both hatchbacks and/or louvers.
Functionally, the Mariah piece does change the open feel of the back to closed, but I don't mind the lack of UV and I never haul anything in the back. It's about to be all stereo back there. Visibility is not as good. The old blind spot is twice as large.
The hatch: It was obviously a compromise in design to make a bolt-on replacement yet with a dramatic style change. It is nearly identical to a 1972 vette. A buddy has one and we've studied them side by side.
Someday, If I can get the right fiberglass man, I want to remove the rear quarter glass and remove the hatch louvers, then have the glass man extend the horizontal deck and extend the vertical over as well. I have sketched this out, and it would truly look like a targa. See, I tend to dislike both hatchbacks and/or louvers.
Functionally, the Mariah piece does change the open feel of the back to closed, but I don't mind the lack of UV and I never haul anything in the back. It's about to be all stereo back there. Visibility is not as good. The old blind spot is twice as large.
1st - Tank ready to go back in
2nd - Barry Grant Demon 575
3rd - Barry Grant Demon 575
4th - New powdercoated grill for airdam
I will keep posting here as work progresses
2nd - Barry Grant Demon 575
3rd - Barry Grant Demon 575
4th - New powdercoated grill for airdam
I will keep posting here as work progresses
David, hi im a noob here on the forums, i usually just pop around drooling over peoples cars but this time i have a couple of questions for you....
1. have you had the back seats pretty much permanently covered over because of the stereo?
2. how expensive is this coating you're using on the body? im in australia so its probably going to be different anyway but a rough cost in US dollars would be good.
3. can u email me a higher res pic of the car, i hate the small pics, no point in saving them to my pic collection
and yours is definetly worthy of my pic collection 
cheers,
GoT
1. have you had the back seats pretty much permanently covered over because of the stereo?
2. how expensive is this coating you're using on the body? im in australia so its probably going to be different anyway but a rough cost in US dollars would be good.
3. can u email me a higher res pic of the car, i hate the small pics, no point in saving them to my pic collection
and yours is definetly worthy of my pic collection 
cheers,
GoT
My 1981 never had back seats.
The coating is about $15 US per can give or take. That's the spray bedliner coating. The inside tank coating Red-Kote is about $40 US per quart.
I believe there is a limit to the pic size individually and as a group to the uploads, so as I'm sending these snapshots as work progresses, they'll remain small. When finished, I'll do some big ones. They are a bit bigger when you click on them, though. I'll try one big one (maybe).
No. I see it's the same. Sorry.
The coating is about $15 US per can give or take. That's the spray bedliner coating. The inside tank coating Red-Kote is about $40 US per quart.
I believe there is a limit to the pic size individually and as a group to the uploads, so as I'm sending these snapshots as work progresses, they'll remain small. When finished, I'll do some big ones. They are a bit bigger when you click on them, though. I'll try one big one (maybe).
No. I see it's the same. Sorry.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: St. Simons, GA
I got the Craftsman powder coating gun, as it was on sale and a good buy. Was kind of leery if it worked or was just somewhat of a gimmiky piece. It actually works really well. I have done the lower control arms, tension rods and the steering knuckles that bolt to the bottom of the strut. An old oven that the range was dead for free, and it bakes them up. you have to play with some of the different powders to find the right temp to flow it out, but not blister it. I have used the craftsman powder and the powder from Eastwood company, as Eastwood has all kinds of colors. Very economical, good looking and no runs. And as soon as the control arms came out and cooled to the touch, I took my key and tried to scratch through it, didn't hardly mark it so should be good for underneath the car. Just an option if anyone would like to DIY.
Travis
Travis
New carbs and flooding are a pita. I am lucky enough to have a sandblaster to clean them when that happens. Make sure you have lots of brake cleaner and compressed air on hand. Good luck with the BG, we another workable option besides the Holley.
Got it in and starting/idling. Used a GM 36" accelerator cable for a 1980 something-or-other that snapped in at the pedal and the firewall. Modified/cut bracket to miss the alternator, etc.
Will update.
Will update.
Originally Posted by trochoid
My what a big wing you have said the spider to the fly. lol. So what are you changing the Mikuni out for?
you could pull up a stool and eat breakfast on that thing
Originally Posted by JUSTDOITRIGHT
Very nice work you do. Looks straight up.
The work done is very good. Proper stuff and applied professionally. Just wait til its finished. Man yeah!!! Just remember, this is a public forum and it can be a cool tool, and i aint no fool. Your Bro.
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 2
From: Allentown, PA - Paterson, NJ
Originally Posted by NITROUS ABUSER
The work done is very good. Proper stuff and applied professionally. Just wait til its finished. Man yeah!!! Just remember, this is a public forum and it can be a cool tool, and i aint no fool. Your Bro.
Originally Posted by trochoid
New carbs and flooding are a pita. I am lucky enough to have a sandblaster to clean them when that happens. Make sure you have lots of brake cleaner and compressed air on hand. Good luck with the BG, we another workable option besides the Holley.
Nothing against Edelbrock, but I went from a Mikuni sidedraft to almost getting the RB Holley, but my brother guaranteed the goods on the Barry Grant (which is like a Holley with a silver spoon in its mouth). Very pretty. He was in the middle of tuning when my rear wheel said adios to the lug nuts.
IMO, holley is at the bottom of the pile as far as good carbs go. They are hard to tune and don't seem to have the same tuning ability as either the Edelbrock or Barry Grant. I personally love the way the edelbrock is set up. You can tune the whole thing basically without ever removing the carb top. Only thing I would have to remove the carb top for would be to change the jets, but the use of metering rods really makes tuning easy.
Been awhile, but here's the filter I am using with the Barry Grant. 14" triangle used OE on 1968-1970 Corvette's that had the 427's.
I'll go cold air intake later, but needed to get a filter on the carb before it gets driven again.
I'll go cold air intake later, but needed to get a filter on the carb before it gets driven again.
Looking very good. I particularly like your attention to detailing the little things that give the final product a much better finished look. Keep it up, you're inspiring some of the other members to improve thier mods, instead of simply doing the cheap, get it done, ricer hack jobs.
Thanks.
It's the hub of what will soon be the multi-point grounding system. I need to do the DLIDFIS mod, a thing or two with the alternator, and get the clutch fan out of the way first. Then situating the wiring will be more straightforward. I don't want the wiring to look like an octopus screwing a mirror.
It's the hub of what will soon be the multi-point grounding system. I need to do the DLIDFIS mod, a thing or two with the alternator, and get the clutch fan out of the way first. Then situating the wiring will be more straightforward. I don't want the wiring to look like an octopus screwing a mirror.
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