New SE idles at 2000RPM?!
01-31-02, 05:59 PM
#1
New SE idles at 2000RPM?!
Help. My 100% Stock GSL-SE is idling at 2000RPM.
I just got this SE, and have no idea how long it's been doing this.
I want to bring the idle down only, I don't want it any richer or
leaner.
Pics or Links would help significantly.
I've always had 7's where I ripped out everything from
then engine bay, and I am not used to all the "stock" stuff.
Thanks in advance.
I just got this SE, and have no idea how long it's been doing this.
I want to bring the idle down only, I don't want it any richer or
leaner.
Pics or Links would help significantly.
I've always had 7's where I ripped out everything from
then engine bay, and I am not used to all the "stock" stuff.
Thanks in advance.
01-31-02, 06:07 PM
#2
Go get youself a manual (Haynes or the like) and look it up in there, they seem to have photos and the like 
. Although, I'm gonna have to say that since its a GSL-SE (I have one) the manual sucks for these cars. Even in the suppliments for the "newer parts" nothing seems to be the way it should. A few of my problems with the manual: 1. Wiring diagrams were wrong, all the cars shown had a power antenna switch, the -SE doesnt. 2. Tail light removal shown had 6 screws on outside of light cover, -SE has nuts on the inside behind the panels and carpet. 3. Misc engine stuff I've looked up has been either wrong (as in stuff they refer to being different) or not there (as in stuff they refer to not being there, i.e. Hoses, wires, etc). Anyway...I do know the idle mixture and idle speed IS in that manual for the -SE . Good luck.
~T.J.
. Although, I'm gonna have to say that since its a GSL-SE (I have one) the manual sucks for these cars. Even in the suppliments for the "newer parts" nothing seems to be the way it should. A few of my problems with the manual: 1. Wiring diagrams were wrong, all the cars shown had a power antenna switch, the -SE doesnt. 2. Tail light removal shown had 6 screws on outside of light cover, -SE has nuts on the inside behind the panels and carpet. 3. Misc engine stuff I've looked up has been either wrong (as in stuff they refer to being different) or not there (as in stuff they refer to not being there, i.e. Hoses, wires, etc). Anyway...I do know the idle mixture and idle speed IS in that manual for the -SE . Good luck.~T.J.
01-31-02, 09:28 PM
#4
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A few things to check:
On top of the throttle body, just passed the intake duct, is the idle air screw. It does not affect mixture. Try rotating it to see if it has any effect. If not put it back where it was.
I would warm it up, shut it down and remove the intake duct. Looking in, you will see two round plates in front of three others. The two in front should be open (horizontal). The three further in should be closed. If the top one is open, even a bit, either:
- the linkage is sticking (clean the shaft running in front of the throttle body and use oil to lubricate it along it's length.)
-The cruise control or throttle cables are too tight. They should have quite a bit of slack.
-The fast idle cam is not disengaging. On the left of the throttle shaft, just below it, is a small roller.(maybe 3/16 th" in dia.) When warm, it should not be sitting on the cam.
If the throttle valves are closed, go to the drivers side. On the dynamic chamber is a part (the BAC, bypass air control valve.) with a black hose between it and the chamber. Disconnect the connector on the only wires going to it with the engine running and see if the idle drops. Those wires are for the air supply valve attached to the BAC. If no change, reconnect it.
Below the BAC is a row of solenoids. Directly below the BAC are two round ones, with a common connector. That connector is for the BAC. Disconnect it with the engine running and see if the idle changes.
A vacuum leak can also cause a high idle. Look for any loose or cracked vac lines or open nipples. Use starting fluid or a propane torch (unlit, of course) and spray around the vac lines, intake manifold and dynamic chamber. If the idle increases, there is a vacuum leak in that area.
You don't want unmetered air getting to the throttle body: Make sure the clamps on the intake duct are tight. Make sure the duct is not cracked.
Let us know what you find. If it doesn't help, there are other possibilities. Good luck.
-John.
On top of the throttle body, just passed the intake duct, is the idle air screw. It does not affect mixture. Try rotating it to see if it has any effect. If not put it back where it was.
I would warm it up, shut it down and remove the intake duct. Looking in, you will see two round plates in front of three others. The two in front should be open (horizontal). The three further in should be closed. If the top one is open, even a bit, either:
- the linkage is sticking (clean the shaft running in front of the throttle body and use oil to lubricate it along it's length.)
-The cruise control or throttle cables are too tight. They should have quite a bit of slack.
-The fast idle cam is not disengaging. On the left of the throttle shaft, just below it, is a small roller.(maybe 3/16 th" in dia.) When warm, it should not be sitting on the cam.
If the throttle valves are closed, go to the drivers side. On the dynamic chamber is a part (the BAC, bypass air control valve.) with a black hose between it and the chamber. Disconnect the connector on the only wires going to it with the engine running and see if the idle drops. Those wires are for the air supply valve attached to the BAC. If no change, reconnect it.
Below the BAC is a row of solenoids. Directly below the BAC are two round ones, with a common connector. That connector is for the BAC. Disconnect it with the engine running and see if the idle changes.
A vacuum leak can also cause a high idle. Look for any loose or cracked vac lines or open nipples. Use starting fluid or a propane torch (unlit, of course) and spray around the vac lines, intake manifold and dynamic chamber. If the idle increases, there is a vacuum leak in that area.
You don't want unmetered air getting to the throttle body: Make sure the clamps on the intake duct are tight. Make sure the duct is not cracked.
Let us know what you find. If it doesn't help, there are other possibilities. Good luck.
-John.
01-31-02, 10:03 PM
#5
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02-01-02, 05:01 AM
#6
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see if this helps,http://mrmazda.members.atlantic.net/cfaqtext.html
Trending Topics
02-02-02, 04:57 PM
#10
Success!
It was a comibination of things.
The "T" fitting of the cruise control was broken and leaking
air (Thanks Bround Mound)
And there was no slack in the cruise control.
Thanks go out to Crispeed for getting it perfect and
even taking the time to put a timing light on it to
make sure it was done right.
The "T" fitting of the cruise control was broken and leaking
air (Thanks Bround Mound)
And there was no slack in the cruise control.
Thanks go out to Crispeed for getting it perfect and
even taking the time to put a timing light on it to
make sure it was done right.
02-02-02, 05:37 PM
#11
Anytime baby!
Re: Success!
Originally posted by Directfreak
It was a comibination of things.
The "T" fitting of the cruise control was broken and leaking
air (Thanks Bround Mound)
And there was no slack in the cruise control.
Thanks go out to Crispeed for getting it perfect and
even taking the time to put a timing light on it to
make sure it was done right.
It was a comibination of things.
The "T" fitting of the cruise control was broken and leaking
air (Thanks Bround Mound)
And there was no slack in the cruise control.
Thanks go out to Crispeed for getting it perfect and
even taking the time to put a timing light on it to
make sure it was done right.
Right on again-
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