redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Hello all, this is a new to me SA, it is supposed to have 29000 miles. The body is really nice, no rust and really nice original paint.
The interior is in great condition, but the red faded to a brownish maroon.

I am going to clean out the goo from under the hood, and put the original waffles wheels back on. It now has 14s and the PO also put an un-needed 1-3/4" rear spacer in there. I checked already. It wasn't needed. Maybe he liked the look. They are sticking out way too far!~!!! So no flame on that please. I will fix

My internal struggle comes from making the interior real nice, or leave it as it is. Stock. I have the original radio and bezel. They came out in the first week. It looks absolutely brand new.

My biggest internal fight is whether or not to convert it to a 5 speed. I have converted many different cars from auto to manual. It is usually fairly easy. I also suspect it can be done at a reasonable cost.

I realize this is changing the originality, but it is improving the fun factor too.

Another thing is removing the exhaust and possibly putting on a RB system. I had once bought one for my FD, and it was a nice unit. For the SA, the reactor comes out, then the header goes in.

Any thoughts on the converting to manual or modding the exhaust. I think either mod can easily be reversed.

What about refresh on the faded interior? Also there are square yellow fog or driving lights on the front bumper. Are these an option or an aftermarket accessory. If accessory, I will remove and fast!!

Enjoy the pix

Rich

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Looks like you found a real nice 79. Automatic engines survive exceptionally well generally due to the low rpm shift points. Changing it out for a manual is not that difficult and has been covered in topics here before. I wouldn't be concerned that it will decrease the cars value. In fact, it probablly would increase its desireability and value.

Besides the box itself, other specific items include: the transmission mount, clutch and flywheel, the manual driveshafts are slightly different as well as the engine starter. I believe you can install a clutch pedal in a automatic pedal box, some guys found it easier to just change out the whole pedal box as a unit. There's the master and slave clyinders, the hard (hydraulic) line and hose to the slave. The flywheel inspection covers are different, a small harness for the reverse lights and of course the interior shift surround and boot. Your replacement tranny must be an SA unit too as FB trannies locate the shifter a couple inches farther to the rear and doesn't line up without modifing the center console. You can probably get it all done for $500-$750.

The fog lights are not factory but were added on by some dealers. So the car could have came off the lot new with them. Most likely, they were added on shortly after purchase. If dying the faded fabric isn't feasable, Racing Beat sells nice OEM style seat covers and I think the Burgundy Red is available. What does the engine bay look like?

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Cut that radio bezel up so you can fit a DIN sized BRIGHT CD player in it.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

project7s

iTrader: (5)

Lol^ that does look like a nice car though.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Agree with Banzai-
5 spd will enhance its value (a relative term of course. These are not exactly cutting-edge collector cars. Yet.), but more importantly, increase your driving pleasure _immensely_!!!

Ideally finding a "dead" SA GS that you can source all the necessary parts for would make the job the simplest and cheapest. Having a donor 5spd car will also allow you to see how all this stuff will go into your car during the strip-down. I think Banzai nailed all the bits you prob need, but having a donor guarantees you won't be stuck missing some hard-to-source bit. Regrettably SOME parts are now ONLY available used, if at all, such as most of the rubber shifter surrounding rubber seals, for example. Obv I would recommend new pieces such as rubber tranny mounts, Clutch master, slave, etc.
Getting a PDF of the SA parts-book will also aid in assembly, since the exploded diagrams help visualize how all the stuff goes together.

Can't really go wrong with the RB exhaust either. If you were to keep the original, then you have the option of reversal, tho I think I can say you never will!
But with an OE exhaust system with 29K, you could probably find willing buyers who want original pieces. These OE exhausts where spec-TAC-ulalry expensive when new (Reactor alone was some $900. In fact there is a NOS one on ebay right now at that price!)

Will be curious to see how durable your 12A is, since it has obviously sat a LONG time with little use. Be prepared for a lot of leaks! Keep an eye on your fluids levels and temp gauge. presuming the engine block itself is as minty inside as the car is, it might be worth biting the bullet and pulling the motor apart and replacing all the internal rubber seals. Then you will have a real Fresh Start.

Either way, congrats and good luck. Lots of knowledgable folks here.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys, thanks for the helpful replies ( except the dash cut ;-0) I will convert it to manual. Value isn't my main concern. It is keeping it presentable.

Stu, you are about as far away you can be, but still be in America. My buddy is there right now. Sent me pix of king salmon he caught. So getting a peek at your parts will be hard.

I too am curious as to how the motor would look inside due to the long periods of inactivity. I will change belts and hoses and possibly do a radiator flush.

It seems to run cool, which is quite different than my FD did. That car was always really hot. I used to open my hood when I parked my FD just to release heat.

I will post underhood pix later. It is really full of goo from an undercoat job. The person who did this job was certainly not cheap with the material. It may be one of the reasons that the body is so clean.

So thank you all for the input. I now begin the search for an SA 5 speed trans!!! I do wonder about the automatic counter balancer on the Eshaft? Maybe this is a good time for a mid weight flywheel too.

Is the RB complete exhaust worth the effort? Cost is around 800 dollars. I like the idea of the header as opposed to a thermal reactor there.

Thanks again

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Can't go wrong with the RB setup. Get the street port system which is dual pipes back to the
muffler, its much better system than the early collected system and sound better too. It costs
a bit more but well worth it.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input. I was just reading an old how to on refurbishing waffles. I will put that to the test soon if the ones I have don't clean up well.

The funny thing is even though this car's parts aren't worn out from use, they have still aged a bit so they don't appear as crisp as I would like.

I will fix that little at a time. Especially the transmission!!!

Thanks again

Jere Urso

Wow, that's gorgeous.

twalke81

Don't cut anything. I want it if you decide to cut

I have that same raised center arm rest in my 79. Not sure if that is original or not but the height makes sense.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

I promise I won't cut anything. That is not my style. I have been a car guy for a long time and I try to never do something that can't be undone.

The center console pad, may be a dealer accessory, but it certainly is not factory. I removed it and found 2 screw holes thru the cover. You are correct, it is at the right height, but it reminded me of an orthopedic shoe, so I removed it. I will fix the 2 holes that were used to mount it.

My interior will get some components re-dyed ( some red faded to brown) and the center is one of the pieces.

I will even save the exhaust when I install the Racing Beat system.

Promise no cuts

Rich

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats an odd looking armrest. Maybe it was dealer installed?

If you need help on waffle restoration feel free to PM me with questions or see my writeup linked
in my sig.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Hello TG, I was going to surprise you with a pix. I read your waffle resto article and applied it. I am very lucky in as much as I have a glass bead cabinet, and a brake lathe ( which I used to spin the wheel while I polish the lip)

I am very happy as to how they are coming out. I have 3 done, and hopefully the 4th tomorrow but may be Friday.

I will worry about the spare next week. But as soon as the 4th wheel fully dries, I will mount and balance my new Kuhmo's on it and then the car will look right to me.

The current wheels look bad to me, especially the rear tires sticking out too far.

Next up, I am losing the points based ignition. Too many continual adjustments.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Nice, I have a solution for your ignition as well

Love to see pics of the wheels, maybe post them in my thread???

I used my pottery wheel on a recent set. I put a foam pad on an oversize bat with the wheel on
it and just used the foot control to spin it. Use a file to get rid of the gross curb rash and then
used some sandpaper and steelwool to finish it out.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

I would put the original wheels on as you intend to do and I would install all of the original interior components.

Now, on to the modifying. I am a guy who has a reputation for restoring 7's to their stock form. I do not modify my 7's really. However, in this case, I would personally convert the car to a manual transmission. If you need a parts list, shoot me a pm and I'll send you one.I have done the swap and its pretty straightforward. Takes a day.

On the question about an RB exhaust. I would install the system without hesitation. It will free up a little power and will also increase your gas mileage. The RB system has a nice tone to it and any respectable RX-7 enthusiast will instantly recognize and respect the brand.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again for the input. I most likely will go with the RB exhaust. I had one on my FD and it was nice for sure. Well made.

I am converting to electronic ignition, as I already bought all the parts. I just need to make a harness which I can easily do.

Here are some pix of my restored waffles. I followed TGs post.

I will say though, the 14s did fill the wheel well nicer though. Please pay no mind to the high rider look. I just dropped it from the floor jack and the springs have not settled back yet.

I also have a 5 speed trans en route as we speak. Now I need to hunt up some other odds and ends and do the conversion. Everything I do is reversible!!! That is always important to me.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Those waffles look really nice. Good job. Love the look.

Now post those pics in my waffle thread

lduley

iTrader: (1)

wow that SA looks immaculate, love the color and shine

twalke81

I've been reading this post from my iphone and just saw the pictures. The car is beautiful. The waffles look fantastic.

Looks like a NJ livery garage is a nice home for an SA - I'm jealous.

redlightrich

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the kind words on the car. I wanted this when I was a teenager, but man was it expensive then.

Please, don't be jealous of livery work!!!! ;-)

I bought it with a stated 29000 miles, but I have some doubts. It runs well, and there is zero rust, but I am not sure at which point age will overtake mileage in condition.

The interior is in very good condition with the exception that the red faded to a brownish maroon. I was told they do this, but I would imagine if it saw limited sun, it would fade less. Like I said, I am not completely convinced the mileage is correct. The paper trail says yes, but, who knows.

I am just thrilled that the body is good as that is the hardest part to sort out.

Again, thanks for the great comments on my 7

Rich

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Congrats Rich. Got my first SA last October as well and am loving it. Long time FD owner, but figured "what the heck," two rotaries must be better than one, right?