New exhaust gaskets leaking. What did I do wrong?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
New exhaust gaskets leaking. What did I do wrong?
Got two new racing beat gaskets and installed them today. Car is running way better! But, they are leaking from both gaskets in the pre silencer.
see video.
https://youtu.be/mbyfkjQALi4?si=6oHoDbzDiSg5L8Td
I cleaned off the old gasket material and the flanges seemed flat. I didn’t torque the bolts but they are tight.
what did I do wrong?
see video.
https://youtu.be/mbyfkjQALi4?si=6oHoDbzDiSg5L8Td
I cleaned off the old gasket material and the flanges seemed flat. I didn’t torque the bolts but they are tight.
what did I do wrong?
#5
Senior Member
My RB silencer looks different so don’t know if same configuration…. But does it have a female bolt hole that allow you to bolt it up to the existing exhaust support bracket? Wondering if supporting the silencer would take some of the load off the flanges which may be causing the lower edges to open up.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
My RB silencer looks different so don’t know if same configuration…. But does it have a female bolt hole that allow you to bolt it up to the existing exhaust support bracket? Wondering if supporting the silencer would take some of the load off the flanges which may be causing the lower edges to open up.
replacing that as well as sanded the flanges flat.
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
I may just take it to a muffler shop if it’s still leaking
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Didn’t torque the bolts… you said it.
fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.
post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.
edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.
fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.
post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.
edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.
Last edited by ATC529R; 10-19-23 at 05:46 PM.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=ATC529R;12580571]Didn’t torque the bolts… you said it.
fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.
post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.
edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.[/QUOTE
amy idea on the torque values?]
fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.
post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.
edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.[/QUOTE
amy idea on the torque values?]
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
The better the bolt the more you can torque em. Grade 8 bolts. Then google the bolt size for torque recommendations. You should be able to get least 75-100. I don’t know that I have ever stripped grade 8 that size with just a ratchet and maybe a lil wrench leverage.
header to pipe flanges can usually be torqued about as strong as you can do em as long as you’re not some big body builder.
(that’s provided the bolts and nuts are separate……I would not risk stripping a stud)
header to pipe flanges can usually be torqued about as strong as you can do em as long as you’re not some big body builder.
(that’s provided the bolts and nuts are separate……I would not risk stripping a stud)
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
The better the bolt the more you can torque em. Grade 8 bolts. Then google the bolt size for torque recommendations. You should be able to get least 75-100. I don’t know that I have ever stripped grade 8 that size with just a ratchet and maybe a lil wrench leverage.
header to pipe flanges can usually be torqued about as strong as you can do em as long as you’re not some big body builder.
(that’s provided the bolts and nuts are separate……I would not risk stripping a stud)
header to pipe flanges can usually be torqued about as strong as you can do em as long as you’re not some big body builder.
(that’s provided the bolts and nuts are separate……I would not risk stripping a stud)
I will see if I can torque them down more than they are. It is a separate nut and bolt. Problem will be the one on top of the header pipe. Awkward angle that’s hard to get a grip on other than a wrench and maybe a breaker pipe. But not my toque wrench for sure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Slow_sevens
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
8
10-28-23 04:48 AM
Captain_Panic
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
29
05-14-10 06:09 PM
Bambam7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
9
05-05-03 01:48 AM