Got two new racing beat gaskets and installed them today. Car is running way better! But, they are leaking from both gaskets in the pre silencer.

see video.

https://youtu.be/mbyfkjQALi4?si=6oHoDbzDiSg5L8Td

I cleaned off the old gasket material and the flanges seemed flat. I didn’t torque the bolts but they are tight.

what did I do wrong?

 

I tried to take pics of the video in case the link doesn’t work.

 

the pic of the flange, is that before cleaning? take some sand paper wrapped around something flat to the flanges to see how flat they are.

 

My brand new full Racing Beat exhaust leaked at same looking flange. It wound up being bc it was not supported properly causing it to sag and leak.

 

My RB silencer looks different so don’t know if same configuration…. But does it have a female bolt hole that allow you to bolt it up to the existing exhaust support bracket? Wondering if supporting the silencer would take some of the load off the flanges which may be causing the lower edges to open up.

 

Sanded all joints.
better?

 

Pics underneath

 

thanks for the tip. I went a looking and one of the hangers is snapped!

replacing that as well as sanded the flanges flat.

 

i had to make mine flush with my belt sander. It’s very easy to make it worse though.

 

well i don’t have a belt sander. Used an orbital sander. Got them reinstalled but going to wait until I get a new hanging bracket to test them.

I may just take it to a muffler shop if it’s still leaking

 

Didn’t torque the bolts… you said it.

fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.

post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.


edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.

 

[QUOTE=ATC529R;12580571]Didn’t torque the bolts… you said it.

fix the hanger and I would also head to ace and get new high strength bolts so you can put some *** into it w/o worrying about stripping old bolts.

post 7 1st picture show 1 leak. Bottom right hand corner. I would tap that pretty good from the other side….probably can’t even see the warp, but they metal shows where it’s leaking.


edit….I don’t know that I would even tap/bang on it…..a lot of torque will pull that together.[/QUOTE

amy idea on the torque values?]

 

The better the bolt the more you can torque em. Grade 8 bolts. Then google the bolt size for torque recommendations. You should be able to get least 75-100. I don’t know that I have ever stripped grade 8 that size with just a ratchet and maybe a lil wrench leverage.

header to pipe flanges can usually be torqued about as strong as you can do em as long as you’re not some big body builder.
(that’s provided the bolts and nuts are separate……I would not risk stripping a stud)

 

I’m not a small guy and put a hurt on a bolt 😂

I will see if I can torque them down more than they are. It is a separate nut and bolt. Problem will be the one on top of the header pipe. Awkward angle that’s hard to get a grip on other than a wrench and maybe a breaker pipe. But not my toque wrench for sure.