1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

New clutch, grrr!

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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 08:18 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy New clutch, grrr!

After a senior year of high school filled with parking lot burn outs and cutting kities my clutch has alas died. A prayer goes out for my first clutch, may it rest in peices, but i am wondering how difficult it is to change a clutch in my rx, and what's the best way to do it, remove the motor or just drop the tranny. Any tips would be greatly appreicated. Thanks y'all!
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 08:32 PM
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not hard to change the cluth like 6 bolts and an alignment tool MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ONE or it will be difficult to line back up. And the easiest way would probably be to just drop the tranny.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 08:34 PM
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Take the exhaust and heatshield off. Remove the driveshaft. Block up the motor and drop the trans. Use a breaker bar to get those bolts out of the bell housing. After that, it's pretty easy. You can do it all in one afternoon.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 09:23 PM
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i need to do the same very soon
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 02:31 AM
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the only hard thing about replacing clutches is if you also replace the pilot bearing(adviseable since you already have the tranny off). other than that, it should be pretty easy, i did mine in one day but i was taking my time.
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 01:24 PM
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check dis out i found a clutch @ http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...752&AppID=2703

A stage V clutch kit for only $245!
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 02:27 PM
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i have found no need to take the exhaust off. make sure you disconnect the battery first and foremost! if you try to take the starter off with the battery connected, you will find it a "shocking " suprise. drain the trans fluid next. then remove the driveshaft. unhook the rubber slave cyl. line from the steel line. then unbolt the crossmember and support the trans with a jack or jackstands. finally, unbolt the six bolts that hold the trans to the engine, marking their location in the bellhousing. carefully slide the trans off, taking care not to mess uo the input shaft on the trans or the eccentric shaft. you may have to wiggle a tad and use a flat head screwdriver to pry te trans off. it is not hard though. you definatly want at lease one other person to help you. once it is off, replace the throwout bearing. it is attached to the fork and is held on by a clip with two ends. to pull the pilot bearing out you can use the tool supplied by mazdatrix or you can do this: pack as much grease as you can in the hole. make it so no more can fit. get a piece of steel rod or somehing solid and strong that fits exactly in the pilot bearing hole with NO slop. insert the head of it in and whack that sucker with a hammer. it should act as a press and press the bearing out. grease the new bearing and tap it in very gently and straight. grease seal out! next, install the disc, lining i up with the alignment tool and attach the pressure plate. pull the tool out and lift the trans and insert it straight onto the engine. start a bolt or two and tighten them this will pull the trans to the engine. if it doesnt line up at first, rotate the input shaft and try again. next, once the trans is bolted in, attach the crossmember. tighten the slave cyl. line next, put the starter on. then the driveshaft. finally fill with fluid. you can fill by removing the check plug and adding there (2.7 quarts) or you can remove the shifter and add there. add until fluid runs out of the fill/check plug hole. replace plug. connect a battery and bleed the clutch. you can do it by opening the bleeder screw on the slave cyl, running a piece of rubber vaccume hose from the bleeder screw down to a can of fluid (dot 3 or 4) and stick the hose in and pump the pedal. it will bleed that way. or you can bleed it like you wold a brking system. open the screw, push pedal to floor, close screw pump pedal, repeat. good luck. should take a good part of the afternoon if done correctly with no stops. also, it would be agood idea to surface the flywheel!! it takes a 2 1/8 socket and an impact gun, or the tools offered by mazdatrix.

Last edited by mazdaverx713b; Nov 10, 2003 at 02:30 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 02:34 PM
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pm if you need more of an explanation. or you can pick up a workshop manual. the best one by far is the fsm. another decent one is made by haynes and can be had at most parts stores.
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 03:29 PM
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I found it much easier to just pull the entire engine, I have no patience, and with my last clutch job it was hell trying get the transmission lined up and back in. This time, I got the engine out, replaced the clutch, and put everything back in in about 2 hours. Keep in mind that my engine bay is pretty stripped down, adn I've gotten very used to pulling the motor. High school parking lot burnouts brings back memories. I have an old volvo 740 turbo, automatic, and you can just stomp on the gas and brakes at the same time, build up boost, and just spin the tires for as long as you want. That was a lot of fun, till I wasnt allowed to park in the lot anymore! Just my 2 cents
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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 07:47 PM
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if you need a clutch i can help you and look p all TSB on the clutch System.....I am a Direct Dealer for Daikin & exedy Which is the OEM supplier To mazda

http://www.mitsubishigraveyard.com/direct.html

Long Live The King
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Old Nov 14, 2003 | 05:09 PM
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From: KANSAS
yeah clutch king what would a 1982-1985 13B clutch cost me? any high output clutches availible?


By the way, Sudox E, I got kicked out of the parking lot for like a week. No big deal just had to park maybe a block away and i always got a ride so it wasn't much of big deal.
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