Is this the correct float to use for both sides? So, basically order 2 of them?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...01_50840_5574_

I decided to go ahead and rebuild since I can't seem to find a good carb anywhere. And if I am in there I might as well replace everything I can. The car sat for a couple years and i don't know the condition of the floats. The rest of the fuel system was junk. The car has a hard time idling and sounds as though it is running out of gas at the top of 2nd or 3rd gear at WOT, varies. After the running out of gas symptom it will die and take a few minutes of rest before it will restart. Then runs great unless I run it at WOT. Just wanted to add that sometimes, but rarely, it will run good at WOT. I think the rebuild/new carb is in order.

 

"Correct" for which carb? You kinda need to be more specific about your application.

If you're talking about a Nikki carb (stock on first gens), then no; the floats are distinctly left and right (Front and Rear in official terms), and can't be swapped.

 

You should first check your fuel filter and make sure the fuel is getting to the carb in sufficienrt amounts to do the job before doing carb work

 

From your symptom description, it sounds more like a fuel supply problem due to blockage. Clogging fuel filter, weak fuel pump or crud in the tank partially blocking the pickup tube in the tank. When floats fail, they usually fill with gas and cause flooding since they no longer float and shut off the fuel supply or maintain a proper fuel bowl level.

 

Thank you all for the replies. Stock nikki carb. Everything else has been replaced, fuel tank, filter, pickup lines and fuel lines. I am not saying the the floats are bad, I just want to replace them while I have the carb apart. I am sure they are good but I have seen floats sit in fuel for a while and then sit in the air and start to deteriorate. I would hate to tear into the carb and find out they are brittle and not have the replacements right there handy. Can someone point me in the right direction to buy the floats?

 

I seem to recall hearing that one of the two floats has been NLA (No Longer Available) for quite a while.

You can test your floats while rebuilding the carb; put them in a strong-walled clear glass jar full of gasoline in a safe well-ventilated shady place, lid them loosely so vapors can vent, and let them float for several hours to a couple days. large pickle jar works great for this.

If they both float at about the same height, with the metal hinge parts downward, and don't sink after a day or two, they are likely fine. If one settles a lot lower than the other, or one or both sinks completely, you have an issue.

 

Rebuilt the carb today. A lot easier than I thought it would be! The car now idles at 750, but only if I pull on the linkage. As soon as I rev it it idles at 1600, but that's better than not idling at all! As far as the wot issue, it is still there but a lot less and doesn't last as long. The front sight glass has fuel about 3/4 the way up and the rear is 1/2 like it is supposed to be. Will the front fuel bowl being that full cause this issue?

 

I changed the fuel filter and took it for a test drive. All I can say is WOW! Hell of a difference! No more dying out at the top of any gear! Now to fix the idle issue. Any suggestions?

 

Fixed. Cruise control cable was too tight. Loosened it up and it died. Fired It back up and adjusted the idle screw, idles perfect at 800rpm!

 

I've run into the same problem before with the cruise cable. I was banging my head on the wall til I finally figured out why the idle was so high. Keep any eye on the front float level. If it stays up, reset it