Here's my story- Just recieved my gorgeous RB header last week, and was anxious to put it on. lacking available ramps, I simply wanted to get an estimate from Exhaust Pro's for a simple installation. They looked at it, checked there books, and said "No more than $87."
I said- "Great, can you do it today?!"
They said "Sure we can!"

That was yesterday afternoon...After they snapped one of the manifold bolts off, it took them 6 hrs. and 28 extra bolts to weld on to it and get it out. The $200 header is now on the car, but has transformed into a $463.03 header.

My question-they did not install either one of the block off plates that came with the header. Where do I put the large one?

My advice-Soak those D@mn bolts for a day AT LEAST before you attempt to take your manifold off.

There...as long as the lack of those plates is not severely affecting the performance, I fell a little better..

(Exhaust Pro's-Ohhh, the irony)
-Gary

 

just goes to show ya, if ya want the job done right do it yourself.

 

Ditto!

 

The large one goes on the the ACV valve, it is the large valve on the side of the intake facing the strut tower.

You will either need to buy short bolts or use a lot of washers to shim up the plates, as the ACV is held on by nuts and studs.

 

6 hours? lol i wouldn't go back there again, took me an hour at the most to get mine on. they probably used an impact getting those manifold bolts out.

 

Heh

My friend and I removed my entire exhaust for the very first time since the car was purchased (In 1979), and with some WD40 we got every bolt off with little to no pain, but lots of fun and learning!

Took us maybe 2 hours for complete removal and reassembely with no instruction manuals or diagrams.

 

geeze, when I took apart my 12a, I just used an impact gun, and it worked fine. I dont know how the hell you guys would be breaking bolts like this.

 

They broke off the bolts, and then charged you for it?

 

Yes, and charged me a lot!! It's been an interesting day...
What does ACV stand for? I'm looking in my haynes manual right now to try to find it, 'cause I see nothing in the engine compartment right now that resembles the shape of the plate. Thanks for all the help-

 

Oh, it must be "air control valve", kind of near the starter...hmmm...

 

This is an FC, but it's still in teh same general area on a 12A. The black thing is the ACV plate that I made.

 

Thanks!! that helps... I'll be back in about 1/2 hr. and let you all know how this goes...

 

"Liquid Wrench" might work better: I think they have a potent rust dissolver (acid?) added to the lube. Let it soak overnight. Then try a light duty Impact Driver (like the 12volt Dewalt DW052 I use for driving screws) before going for the heavy duty air impact wrench. The bolt should take a lot of light impacts before if fractures, because it doesn't see cycles in ordinary usage, but the heavy application of force may cause a sudden Forced Rupture.

It's horrible breaking a stud, cause then you gotta try the EZout (which never works) and then drill and put in a helicoil or oversize stud. And it's easy to break the damn things cause the rust and corrosion gives a nice start for a forced rupture.

B

 

They FUCKED up and you paid for it? Why?

 

Where I come from

A) An estimate is an estimate, they stick by it

B) If they screwed up by snapping a bolt off, THEY cover the labour, 'cause they obviously didn't go about getting it off properly in the first place... Those Exhaust studs are at least 10 grade bolts... they don't just shear off for no reason...

 

Are you talking about the engine tension bolts? If so, thats not the right way to do it. There is a order to take them off and you only turn them a little at a time in order. Then when they are loose enough, then sure, spin them off quickly. That can cause warped housings possibly like when torqueing a head, otherwise there wouldn't be a order.

 

Yeah, that's what everyone is saying. The only thing I can do now is 100% Boycott Exhaust Pro's....Grrrrr.....I'm getting more frustraited......(think of how it runs now, think of how it sounds)......Ok, I feel better.....

 

you should always get estimates in writing.

If its in writing they cant charge you more than 10% over that estimate.

Truth in repairs act.