DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Does anyone have measurements on the two studs used to fasten the oil filter carrier to the pedestal on a pre-beehive 12A casting? Length, size, and thread pitch?

I need to get new ones to replace my possibly-lost-long-ago originals - - I'm switching out my Mark I guage adapter for a Mark II, and that means I need the old studs... which I last saw maybe 8 years ago.

I can get parts to match, but I'd like to have them in hand before I disassemble the pedestal, so I can do the job all at once & not hemmorage oil overnight.

I THINK I found one of them... but I also seem to remember them being of slightly different length?

Any help you can provide tomorrow morning would be great, so I can hit the hardware store at lunch.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

6mm or 8mm?

If that question doesn't make any sense, did the studs thread into the aluminum 'pedestal' itself, or into the rear iron?

I suspect you're talking about the 6mm type, because as you said one was slightly longer than the other, this was to account for the extra thickness of a sheet metal harness holding tab (the kind with black vinyl plasti-dip on the curvy end).

Did you know you can simply use a couple of 6mm x 1.00 bolts instead? They just need to be the right length of course. You might have to go to a hardware store. I can tell you a bolt is a lot leasier to find than a stud.

I'd have to estimate the length of a bolt, if you were going to get a set of bolts instead of trying to use studs, would be between 10 and 15mm. I don't imagine they'd need to be longer because they will bottom out inside the pedestal, and depending on the thickness of the iron casting you have; either Y or R5, there is some fudge room. Y is thinner than R5 by a few mm. It's best to measure the thickness of the rear plate and the threaded depth of the pedestal before you buy anything.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Jeff;

I have R5 castings, and my filter base pedestal is aluminum into which the studs threaded. So I would say I'm talking the 6mm variety. (I have a late-series 80)

I have lunchtime access to an extremely well-stocked hardware provider (McFadden-Dale) that I've used for such esoteric items as stainless steel hex cap screws to replace all the phillips screws on my carb (no more strip-outs!), so availability isn't an issue - - I just needed to know what to buy.

The one stud I found in my "save it!" container is 6mm in diameter on the unthreaded center section, 28mm in length overall, is threaded for 12mm on both ends, with one end blind-cut and the other having a centering-dowell tip. Thread pitch appears to be 1mm per thread.

So, that's probably one... but is it the "short" or the "long" one?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, that's one of them. I'm sorry I don't know whether it's the "long" one or the "short" one. It honestly doesn't matter because they both work in either position. The plasti-dip tab is so thin that if you don't use one, it causes no problems with the long stud. The nut won't bottom out on the unthreaded portion of the stud; especially on an R5 plate, due to the extra thickness. You'll be fine.

For now you could estimate the length of bolt you'll need by measuring the thickness of the R5 plate and the threaded depth of the pedestal. For extra safety you could also estimate for the extra thickness of a lock washer. The factory used lock washers and basic nuts on R5s and a special locknut and washer combo on the beehive 12As and perhaps the early FBs (it's one piece and a lot easeir to handle with the engine in the car). You should consider a lockwasher on both sides for your setup to be more like factory and for safety.

By the way, I tried an RB mark II guage adaptor on a beehive with a Camden as a way to feed oil to the SC. It worked flawlessly. You're gonna like yours but be sure to torque the inside 1" bolt to 30 foot pounds like it says. No leaks for me.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Thanks again; I'll just get one to match what I've got, and get one longer and one shorter for safety, since they're probably all of a buck each. I'll burn more gas getting them. I still have the stock nuts and lockwashers on the car.

I've been real pleased with the behavior of the mark I block, but the mark II is just too pretty for me to resist; matches my color scheme, too. The mark I is functional as hell, but not exactly a thing of beauty.

Did you need to use an elbow for your pressure sensor, or did both fit straight on? I'm not sure if there's clearance enough between them, with my bell-type sensor.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

on Mr peepers i used some stationary gear bolts, so that should be 8x1.0? maybe 20mm long?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

You must have the earlier pedestal that screws down from the top, then?

In the 80s (after ser # 568500), they switched to the lower-profile pedestal that attaches from the bottom, via studs & nuts.

I'll photograph it when it's off, for future thread-searchers' reference.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes, mine is the old style one, they switched in 81-82?

anyways the "old" tall one has the 2 8mm studs in the rear iron and uses nuts on top, i used 2 bolts, it looks stock but i'd loose points at the concours

the later "short" has 2 6mmx1.0 studs on the pedestal and its held on by 2 nuts.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

They switched in 80, then changed it all again when the beehives came into play, looks like.