in need of a lil direction on where to start
10-16-08, 05:27 PM
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in need of a lil direction on where to start
Im tearing out the 12a rotary and am in need of a place to start researching what to pull first and why and such ?
im not asking for a how-to because im pretty sure it isn't out there however if i wrong (and god has that been known to happen
) a how to would appreciated
im not asking for a how-to because im pretty sure it isn't out there however if i wrong (and god has that been known to happen
) a how to would appreciated
10-16-08, 06:36 PM
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Haynes manual has an ok demonstration on pulling the motor. Are you taking it out or pulling it apart? either way the fsm will help out, look for it on trochoids sig
10-17-08, 10:08 AM
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10-17-08, 10:23 AM
#4
The Field Service Manual (FSM) also has a detailed discription.
First tool you should grab, though, is a digital camera. Photograph EVERYTHING before you start tearing down, many angles; you'll thank yourself later, when you come to that one vacuum line that you can't remember where it goes, and that doesn't show up clearly in any manuals.
Especially if your project gets interrupted for some reason.
Baggies, twist ties, and a Sharpie for keeping parts sorted, is probably the other useful trick never written down. As you pull parts, put their mounting bolts, gaskets, and small bits in the baggie, write down what is needful on the baggie (little things like which side of the gasket faced the engine, for example) with the Sharpie, and then use the twist tie to tie the baggie to the part.
It helps a lot. Specially if storage space is at a premium, and things get moved around.
First tool you should grab, though, is a digital camera. Photograph EVERYTHING before you start tearing down, many angles; you'll thank yourself later, when you come to that one vacuum line that you can't remember where it goes, and that doesn't show up clearly in any manuals.
Especially if your project gets interrupted for some reason.
Baggies, twist ties, and a Sharpie for keeping parts sorted, is probably the other useful trick never written down. As you pull parts, put their mounting bolts, gaskets, and small bits in the baggie, write down what is needful on the baggie (little things like which side of the gasket faced the engine, for example) with the Sharpie, and then use the twist tie to tie the baggie to the part.
It helps a lot. Specially if storage space is at a premium, and things get moved around.
10-18-08, 01:54 PM
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what i do: 5speed/4speed manual 12a
take out battery.
drain fluids, disconnect fuel, remove cooling fans and remove radiator and its
bracket, that will give enough room for the engine to move forward for removal. Then i remove the shifter boots and crap from inside the cab,
after that i remove heatsheilding from below, and follow that with exhaust (header back for aftermarket) or i hacksaw it off somewere depending on the condition, making sure their is short enough pipe on the engine to clear the firewall when its moved forward and up.
I remove the carb and plug the intake, or i remove the intake and plug the ports. that is for clearance to attach chain for lifting.
after that is all clearl I start photographing the vacuum and wiring, get close shots with as high of detail as you can.
I disconnect the wiring, not all the wiring, just the plugs from engine to firewall, I cannot recall, but I think their is 1big, 1med, and couple littles.
After that i search around the bay for ANY missing connections.
I then block up the car, set the Ebrake, and remove the speedo cable and driveshaft (you might need to plug end of trans to save gear fluid or trans fluid), and loosen the trans mount braket, and remove the bolts from the rubber block on the transmission, but keeping it together and snug with the braket holding it up... double check to make sure everything is disconnected from the engine & trans to the vehicle chassis.
at this point, i support the engine from below with a jack and a block at the back of the oilpan (but still on the oil pan! not on the trans&pan or just on the trans) and give it a TINY bit of lifting pressure, I move in the engine hoist, attach and take up the slack but do not lift. Then i remove the engine mount bolts (bracket to chassis bolts or the front 4 engine mounts depending on your preference, but IME either way the mount braket should come out before the engine, attached or alone)., once bolts are out, i lift with the hoist a tiny bit, to break the 'seal' of sitting loaded.
GET A FRIEND OR HELP NOW
At this point i get myself under the car, and remove the trans missionbracket, this will free the engine trans so be careful, remember the jack on the oilpan, lower it so the back of the trans settles onto the skate board, you need a friend because it take a multitude of adjustments an fidgiting to get it to move how you want., from here, you can angle the trans down and the front of the engine up while lifting to clear the car. I normally do not move the engine hoist, but instead lift and drop the car back down, then roll it back until its clear. I do not like rolling lifted hoist.
I leave the dist cap on, the exhaust header/thermoreactor on, and the intake/carb if I can clear them with a chain (normally can), I also leave the entire emissions intact, only removing vacuum for cruise and coal canister, and the throttle cables are removed (make sure you mark your cables and were they go, that is the number 1 slow down to a stop on re-install***). Other things are that immensly helpful are this website, and the right search words, and when you remove a bolt, thread it back into its home or put it in a baggie marked well. About the only other thing that is helpful is an extra car all setup you can check and copy your re-installation on, were that vacuum hose goes, which cable goes were, and other little things that get big when you put back together.
I found it MOST beneficial to do block scrubbing, and slimming mods, like the rats nest removal, carb cleanup, and convert intake/exhaust before re-installing the engine. It also makes setting up your installation alot faster.
Going into an engine change out (12a for 12a) blind is easy, but the learning curve can make it into a 2day job (no problems).
I do not like the haynes manual at all, it sucks.
this is not a tutorial, but how I recall how to, I have not swapped an engine out for about 6months now so I may have forgotten some details.
take out battery.
drain fluids, disconnect fuel, remove cooling fans and remove radiator and its
bracket, that will give enough room for the engine to move forward for removal. Then i remove the shifter boots and crap from inside the cab,
after that i remove heatsheilding from below, and follow that with exhaust (header back for aftermarket) or i hacksaw it off somewere depending on the condition, making sure their is short enough pipe on the engine to clear the firewall when its moved forward and up.
I remove the carb and plug the intake, or i remove the intake and plug the ports. that is for clearance to attach chain for lifting.
after that is all clearl I start photographing the vacuum and wiring, get close shots with as high of detail as you can.
I disconnect the wiring, not all the wiring, just the plugs from engine to firewall, I cannot recall, but I think their is 1big, 1med, and couple littles.
After that i search around the bay for ANY missing connections.
I then block up the car, set the Ebrake, and remove the speedo cable and driveshaft (you might need to plug end of trans to save gear fluid or trans fluid), and loosen the trans mount braket, and remove the bolts from the rubber block on the transmission, but keeping it together and snug with the braket holding it up... double check to make sure everything is disconnected from the engine & trans to the vehicle chassis.
at this point, i support the engine from below with a jack and a block at the back of the oilpan (but still on the oil pan! not on the trans&pan or just on the trans) and give it a TINY bit of lifting pressure, I move in the engine hoist, attach and take up the slack but do not lift. Then i remove the engine mount bolts (bracket to chassis bolts or the front 4 engine mounts depending on your preference, but IME either way the mount braket should come out before the engine, attached or alone)., once bolts are out, i lift with the hoist a tiny bit, to break the 'seal' of sitting loaded.
GET A FRIEND OR HELP NOW
At this point i get myself under the car, and remove the trans missionbracket, this will free the engine trans so be careful, remember the jack on the oilpan, lower it so the back of the trans settles onto the skate board, you need a friend because it take a multitude of adjustments an fidgiting to get it to move how you want., from here, you can angle the trans down and the front of the engine up while lifting to clear the car. I normally do not move the engine hoist, but instead lift and drop the car back down, then roll it back until its clear. I do not like rolling lifted hoist.
I leave the dist cap on, the exhaust header/thermoreactor on, and the intake/carb if I can clear them with a chain (normally can), I also leave the entire emissions intact, only removing vacuum for cruise and coal canister, and the throttle cables are removed (make sure you mark your cables and were they go, that is the number 1 slow down to a stop on re-install***). Other things are that immensly helpful are this website, and the right search words, and when you remove a bolt, thread it back into its home or put it in a baggie marked well. About the only other thing that is helpful is an extra car all setup you can check and copy your re-installation on, were that vacuum hose goes, which cable goes were, and other little things that get big when you put back together.
I found it MOST beneficial to do block scrubbing, and slimming mods, like the rats nest removal, carb cleanup, and convert intake/exhaust before re-installing the engine. It also makes setting up your installation alot faster.
Going into an engine change out (12a for 12a) blind is easy, but the learning curve can make it into a 2day job (no problems).
I do not like the haynes manual at all, it sucks.
this is not a tutorial, but how I recall how to, I have not swapped an engine out for about 6months now so I may have forgotten some details.
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