rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

ok the rear end on my 82 s went out on me last night so i spent all night swapping parts form the 82 to the 83 GS ( i had swapped them before to get the 82 running ) and all is well, i have fuel to the carb, compression on the engine seems to be good, but it keeps fouling the rear plugs, mainly L2 ( bottom right ) the T2 plug seems to have some fouling but nowhere near as bad as L2. i cleaned, and dried them, cleaned out the plug holes, did the oil down the carb thing, searched, and im still stumped. there is a whitish colored fluid on the L2 plug and i had this problem with it before but it started after i ran in to the problem the first time. now it just cranks and wont start. the plugs and wires are fresh and the dizzsy cap and rotor were new wiht only 500 miles on them before i parked the 83. any advice would be appreciated.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

are you sure you have spark??? just the first and most obvious thing to check. for peace of mind, check the compression on the engine.

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

spark is present until the plugs get fouled and then nothing... i will do a compression test in a few minutes ( im making my breakfast )

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

the compression test came back ok. what sould i do now? i have to work today and i have no other car, and its too hot to be riding my bike ( its over 105 )

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

anyone have any more suggestions?

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

bump

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Rear float is sticking in the carb, flooding/fouling the rear plug.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

very possible trochoid. it wouldn't hurt to pull the top of the carb and check the float levels, both front and rear.

bliffle

White stuff on L2? Maybe coolant or oil/coolant mix.

hanman

Check the fuel level in the carb windows.

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

the levels in the fuel windows are about halfway up both front and back. if it is a coolant seal is there any way to get it working temporarily until i can find onother rear end? im desperate at this point.

bliffle

My experience with carbs is that if you have a fuel problem but the other parameters are ok (compression and ignition) that I can ALWAYS get the engine to kick over and start for a couple seconds by squirting raw fuel in the carb throat. that eliminates the other two and leaves ignition as the culprit, as usual. Try it.

Usually, all I have to do is put in new plugs. After that, hi-tension wires, worn rotor or cracked distcap. Never had a bad ignitor, yet, but that would be next in my test sequence. I know you have a Pick 'n Pull near stockton, so go there and get a spare ignitor or two. Today is half-price day, and usually you can get the 5 finger discount. You need a phillips screwdriver and a 14mm box wrench (to loosen the alt and get it out of the way). Put the ignitor, screwdriver and 14mm in your glove compartment for a future emergency.

Most hard-start problems are ignition caused.

hanman

Is your coolant level dropping consistently?
Have you tried BRAND NEW plugs, not just cleaning the old ones up?

You can have a local shop test your coolant for exhaust gases, if they are present, you indeed have a coolant leak, and your engine is toast.

What were the compression test numbers?

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

they are a little low but they should still work as a daily beater for a while the front was 90 and the rear was about 75-80

bliffle

Compression should be OK. Squirt a little fuel in carb throat, get in car and attempt a start. If it runs a second or two then you have a carb/fuel problem. If it doesn't start then you have a flooded engine or bad ignition. Pull plugs, smell them for raw gas, clean with brake cleaner, replace.

If you have an electronic timing light (one that attaches to the battery as well as spark lead) hook it to L1 while cranking.