Need help determining coolant leak.
There is one mount bolt/nut point for the pump BODY (not impeller insert) that requires a shim - easy to miss on a swap - this would allow a leak if missing. The question is did you just replace the impeller portion (the "pump") or did you pull the whole pump assy body too?
Also, nut/bolt torque for unit is VERY LOW - something like 18ft lbs!!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Also, nut/bolt torque for unit is VERY LOW - something like 18ft lbs!!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Thanks, Sarge - TWO shims 
OK. so you just replaced the pump/impeller only - which makes sense. You say the leak is under the Alternator? more towards the spark plug side? The prob is with the fan spinning, its hard to see exactly WHERE the leak is, 'cause the fan likely blows the fluid all over. maybe try this: pull the fan. obviously, the car should be dead-cold before you do this! And you can only run it a few minutes. You'd need to pull the shroud first. which gives better visibility anyway. Fan clutch held on by 4 -10mm bolts (at least on my SA). Also you'd want to clean - and dry! all around front of motor to get old coolant , etc off first. THEN: start car, use a mirror and start watching! Note: since the thermostat would be closed at first til engine reaches op temps, you might have to grit yer teeth and watch for a few minutes to be sure the leak isn't sourced on the "other" side of the thermostat. Anyone? Is this too wacky?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

OK. so you just replaced the pump/impeller only - which makes sense. You say the leak is under the Alternator? more towards the spark plug side? The prob is with the fan spinning, its hard to see exactly WHERE the leak is, 'cause the fan likely blows the fluid all over. maybe try this: pull the fan. obviously, the car should be dead-cold before you do this! And you can only run it a few minutes. You'd need to pull the shroud first. which gives better visibility anyway. Fan clutch held on by 4 -10mm bolts (at least on my SA). Also you'd want to clean - and dry! all around front of motor to get old coolant , etc off first. THEN: start car, use a mirror and start watching! Note: since the thermostat would be closed at first til engine reaches op temps, you might have to grit yer teeth and watch for a few minutes to be sure the leak isn't sourced on the "other" side of the thermostat. Anyone? Is this too wacky?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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