rx7learner

My muffler shop wants to charge 150$ to take my 3" RB downpipe and Y connect it to a RB flange (2 x 2.5") so it can bolt onto my RB Streetport Exhaust System without hacking it up.

I'm seeing exhaust systems like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

They dont cost much more than what the exhaust shop wants to charge me to weld... but I dont know whether they will fit.

Has anyone used a pre-made setup like this? or know if a pre-made would fit without major modifications?

Please let me know. Thanks.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Go to another shop. I got my whole exhaust done for a little under 100$.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Are you running a 12a or 13b engine?

rx7learner

12a stock s4 mani spaced with 2 rb spacers

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

You do realize that the FC and FD came with 13b engines? And that they ran dual mufflers.
If you were running a 13b N/A then you could run the S4 or S5 N/A header and presilencer but still would have to use the FB muffler and such.
So in short, no there is no other system that you can use that would just bolt on.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Don't try to cut corners on this. The Sp system is a very good system and was engineered for maximum horse power gains. Pay the money and do it right the first time. Why not just buy the Sp header that goes with the system?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Because you cannot put a header on a turbo car.

rx7learner

Doc, the ebay add was for a turbo back system... but it was single exhaust though? Thats the type I was asking about.

The exhaust shop wants to charge 150$ to weld up my RB 3" downpipe so that it bolts onto the RB SP system. I already have the RB SP header but that works NA like Jeezus mentioned.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Best thing to do, is get a flange for the downpipe, an adapter for the RB exhaust, and a universal flange for the RB exhaust to bolt up to. The more work you can do on your own the cheaper it will be. I think 150$ for 3 welds is insane. Cut the adapter to be the size you need that will fit between the downpipe and rear exhaust, mark it. Bring just that to them and tell them to weld it. Install it back yourself with gaskets.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Sorry, My bad. I didn't view the link. I should of put 2 and 2 together when you stated 3 inch down pipe since that is what is commonly used on Turbo applications. :-)

In that case I would check around to see if another muffler shop would be cheaper as was mentioned or just bite the bullet and have it done.

yetterben

dude 150 isn't that bad especially in your area. As long as it works and your happy with the end result its 150 well spent. i am gonna shell out close to 200 for my down pipe back when i take it to a shop. i have it on there now the way o want it and it fairly quite but i want it done right buy the shop so i will pay what it takes to get it done. Finding a shop in my area that will work on a car without cats is tough anyway so you gotta pay to play!

rx7learner

I purchased the flange that has 2 x 2" inch holes (not 2.5" like I mis-stated above) and thanks to Jeezus I noticed that RB sells a Y collector part number 16004. So if the RB exhaust flange I bought part number 16197 can mate up to the Y collector then it's just a matter of transitioning the 3" downpipe into the collector. I need to cut the DP because the DP ends much further back than where the RB SP mid section begins.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

$100-$150 is not bad at all seeing that there some welding involved...and welding is not cheap...

Figure you buy that system off the net...for that price...then add a more money to have it fit to your car...you just doubled the amount you would spend...

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

You will not find anything "prefabbed" for a turbo first gen. I just upgraded my Turbo FB to 3" exhaust a couple of weeks ago. I spent a little under $200 going from the turbo to the tailpipe. That was not including the muffler. Most exhaust shops around can't bend 3" worth a crap. I looked around till I found a place that did alot of custom street rod stuff. The guy asked if the reason I wanted 3" exhaust in the car was because I had a V8 in it. I chuckled when I told him that would be a sin. Then I explained to him that it wasn't the size of a piston that mattered, but the size of a snail on the Rotary .

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

i feel bad every time i read a post and see how much welding cost you guys. iam pretty lucky since iam a welder by trade. i don't have my own tig welder as of yet, i just found out miller sells what i need to do the side jobs i get offered all the time. ac/dc tig welder for under 1600$ it is a steal. but as of now iam able to use ones my friends and family owns ect and week ends i sneak stuff into work to weld lol. when i get my welder i think iam going to offer my work for free to rx guys since were all pretty broke. id probly ask max 20 bucks for any thing and pay shipping both ways.

any ways i ranted and iam done.

side note
bad 83 i hope that chick with the ***** is not your wife or gf but god dam i wanna motor boat those.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I know right? Its not his wife. But still...

Jaime Enriquez

This may work for you.... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

warwickben

iTrader: (1)

any ways back to the thread.

want to get it done for free or just the cost of a tip. go find the nearest voc/tech high school. 99% of them have metal fab ie welding/sheet metal shop. iam not talking about a high school that has a shop class and a welder. iam talking about a high school that has one week of school then one week of shop.unlike the 70's these school you have to have good grades to get in to. because when they send the kids out on co op the reflect on the school.
these schools pump out good welders, and they will only give out side jobs not school project jobs to the best welders in the class. if you still worried about it not being a good weld from a kid you will get proven wrong trust me. tell me what state and town you live in and i can help you find a good voc school near by to get this done.

if i where you i would get all the parts needed and mock them up. a trick i leaned is drill two holes in the end of each pipe. if your looking down in to the pipe make the holes at 12 and 6. use zip ties to hold the pipes to gather when you mocking them up. take a red a blue marker and make lines so the person welding them will line them back up to the right position. the reason i said to use to different color markers is so the pipes wont get it rotated the wrong way. so on all the pipes use the red at 12 and blue at 6 o'clock.

uses letters on the ends of the pipes. on the down pipe label that "A" on the side you want welded. on the end of the pipe you want welded to that label it "A" on the other end of the pipe label it b. that way you know the kid welding it wont mess some thing up. they should not charge you any thing since your not useing there stock just having a student welding it for you.

if you can, tell them you want to meet the kid that welded it and slip him some cash. even if they tell you, you don't need to pay the kid.
when i was still in high school it made my day when peeps paid me like that.
most of the time the person shock my hand and passed me a 20, one time a benjamin. that made my day.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

The problem isn't the welding part. I can do that myself. I own a wire welder and do most of my own welding. I just don't have a high doller tube bending machine like the one the exhaust shop uses. Don't get me wrong, I love to do everything I can myself, but I didn't want to have 5-10 places to weld the pipe together where it crosses the rear axle. I only have two places the pipe is welded. There is a jiont about half way so I can remove the downpipe and midsection if I need to drop the trans. It's a hat trick to get 3" pipe bent over the rear axle without any rubbing issues.

rx7learner

There are many manufacturers that make those Y pipes however those most likely will need bending.

I shot an email over to RB asking whether the one they sell is an exact bend to fit into their RB dual flange. I have had no problems with the RB street port system and if I could go with all RB parts (RB DP... which I already have, RB Y pipe... pending response for RB, and RB flange... which I already have) then all it will be is the mock up and welding. That 150$ included the exhaust shop making the Y pipe but I would rather use RB's.

If I buy the Y pipe from RB I will have all the components and it will be just a weld job so the exhaust shop should lower the price.

I'll post a pic back once all is said and done. Thanks.


OOOOH and P.S. about Bad 83's pic... thats the one prayer God hasnt answered (but that's prolly is his answer)... Married for 18 years and counting....