i've searched all over. the only how to's i've found aren't really helpful since the mazspeed site's tutorial is not for the 79-80. (my 7 is a 1980 LS 12a nikki, manual)
and the stickied thread on here is so ancient the pics have gone away, which is really what i need. so i thought i'd just ask one of the **TRULY KNOWLEDGABLE** sa22c chassis tuners on here what exactly i should plug, re-route, and throw away.
i quickly jogged down the following items off the emissions vacuum line diagram from under the hood of my car.

These items i need knowledge on what to do with as well as any others to complete my rats nests removal:
Vacuum Solenoid valve - IIRC this just needs to be removed and i can run a "T"
from the carb to the "T" then from that to the two distributor diaphragms, right?

relief sv WTF does this do?

vent and check valve, need re routed (but i need to know the route...)

coasting valve WTF?

idle compensator again WTF?

throttle opener
choke diaphragm- needed?
choke return diaph- needed?
delay valve, choke SV- needed?
air control valve-re routed?
afterburn valve- throw away and plug?
thanks in advance for all the SA guys that help me out here!

 

50 gawkers and still no stalkers... bump.

 

come one guys! anything? why has no one done a write up on this? at least tell me what the deuce that "relief solenoid valve" does? what does it "relieve" ???

 

Welcome-!
LS? Ni-i-i-ce!

I have archived PDFs - PM me with your email and I will send you what I have, which is most everything ever written here...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

This was the thread that I started... No issues to date from removal. I did however need to reinstall the A/C solenoid if you want to run air. I also removed the thermal reactor during the rats nest removal. any questions just send me a pm.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1980-rats-removal-how-did-i-do-889771/

 

challer you're a baller! that is exactly what i needed, but i don't know what you meant when you hooked up the "3.Gas tank vent line and oil filler neck to check valve… from there top of check valve to nipple above altitude compensator or fifth nipple from left of carb. The third nipple under check valve to an adapter for larger hose (9/32 to 5/32) the bottom nipple under the five. Not sure what to call it."

^^^ what was "#5" ???

 

Take-7
have emailed PDFs to you - BIG FILES so I hope your email handles it OK

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Not sure about #5 ( I don’t have one on my thread) But I think this is what you’re looking for…

But the check valve has 3 nipples on the bottom and 1 on the top.
On the top of the check valve go to the Altitude compensator (The plate under the carb has 6 Nipples) When you’re standing on the driver side looking at the carb it will be the 5 nipple from the left.

The bottom of the check valve has three nipples. The larger nipple goes to the oil filler neck and I believe the other two are the same size. One will go to the fuel tank vent and the other will need a adaptor because you will be going from a smaller house to a larger one.

Hope it helps

 

totally helps, thanks to both of you guys! to remove the air pump is next, someone on here said you can't remove the air pump unless you install a racing beat header... is this true? cause i can't afford anything from racing beat yet.

 

That's true leave it on. Until you swap out the thermal reactor.

 

word-
if you pull the pump you will cook the reactor (pump blows cooling air over the reactor, thus: "Air" pump) then you'll HAVE to buy a header!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

there's something about the phrase "blowing up my thermal reactor" that makes me WANT to do this. nuke-u-lar...