jdjl1987

What's up,
With spring here it's finally time for me to get to work on the 82 GS that has for the most part been sitting in my driveway since last august.
Here's it's story so far:
First owned by a professor at Carleton university here in Ottawa. He got old, sick (and maybe died?). The result was it sat for 10 years in a concrete garage. Luckily though the engine and carb were oil coated so as rocker panels and wheel wells disintegrated from the moisture coming up form the concrete, the engine did not. Then some guy got it out of there, got most of the now gunk oil out. I assume he lost interest as he sold it to me last August, it's at 39,000km.
I ordered some parts it needed to pass the Ontario safety check from a couple of places. Black Dragon Automotive had a good selection, but shipped my parts to Brazil and sent me an accelerator pedal and a diaphragm from an MGB. I had paid for the faster shipping option. They were jerks and frequently waited a week or two to call me to say they have yet to ship my order because they were low on stock. I finally got my parts in October, as well as some KVR cross drilled front rotors (KVR are not only in town, but they were very nice and got my stuff done asap.)
Now with new rotors, pads, rear shoes, wheel bearings, and Hella Headlights it passed the safety and was allowed on the roads. But it kept flooding, had no power, the transmission quickly turned as heavy as bricks and continued to sputter a die while driving. With so many issues all on it's maiden voyage, I opted to pull into a local mechanic's instead of my driveway (fist big mistake). The mechanic not only diagnosed the problem, but charged me for the repairs without asking. He replaced the fuel pump and the clutch master cylinder, re-set the idle, and told me the gas was 'a little' old, so I should let it burn it off. It was Christmas eve when I took the car home. It got home ok, but once it was home it never ran again. Thanks mechanic.
Snow started to melt so I could finally start on it again. After playing around with the spark plugs, trying to get it running, the exhaust got red hot and the lovely chaps here directed me to the plugs. One of them was broken and not firing, and had been not firing in the trailing position all this time. Brand new plugs went. Drove it around the suburbs for a while to see how it was not that it wasn't constantly flooding or igniting the exhaust. Felt ok, so I took in on the highway. As soon as I hit 60k the engine stalled, I tried dropping a gear to get to the higher rmp, but it just started jerking the hell out of the car, and for fear of further damage, pulled over. It then refused to go at lower speeds and did not idle, so I had to get it towed back to my place
I knew the carb was in need of a rebuild, and with the new plugs, the problem must therefore be fuel. So this is where I'm at today, carb is on it's way off the engine so I can rebuild it and I drained the fuel into some glass jugs I had lying around. Safest to say, the gas is rank, and most of it is probably from when it was stored 12 years ago. I figured the guy who hauled it out would have drained it, but I guess not. Check the pictures; no, that's not apple cyder or beer, it the gas from my tank.

If I can get the money together before the end of summertime, I plan to swap the rear to discs and lsd, as well as a 13b-rew to replace the 12a. Though I spend a lot of time reading through all the service manuals and cruising the web and the forums for more information, I'm still very much a total noob with rx7's. So any advice you guys have along the way or other info you happen to come across is much appreciated.
The name is josh by the way, I know the user name is annoying to type.

Kentetsu

Man, that looks like a waste of good beer!!! A carb rebuild is a good call, probably full of varnish by now. You'll also be wanting a new fuel filter, even if you recently changed it.

Hold off on the 13b swap until everything is working right on the car. You might find that you are happy with the 12a, which is nothing to sneeze at.

You'll also want to make sure the ignition system is working correctly, for starters make sure you are actually getting spark at the plugs on both leading and trailing.

Best of luck, looks like it will be a great car when you're finished with her.



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g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Only 60k miles?!? Wow! She looks great! Polish up those rims and hit her with the clay bar and the exterior is going to look 100%!

Yeah, your issue definitely sounds like it was getting too much/little gas. I'd get a RB manifold and Holley to throw on there. Mikuni/Nikki carb = n:. Their too hard to get started in the morning on a cold motor.

Personally, I'd wait on the LSD swap since I'd hope your going to be putting the Turbo2 drivetrain in with the 13b-rew whenever you do.

Looks like a rock solid machine otherwise.


Post some more pics! I wanna see the engine bay.

CHiNO84gsl

+1 on keeping the 12a it will be a good learning experience before a 13b rew swap. You might also want to check your dist. cap and rotor also ignition coils and wires as well i had to change the burnt blaster coils my car came with. other than that parts that usualy expire soon should be replaced just to be sure unless they seem fine. But good luck with your se7en it looks real clean (any interior pics?).

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

Nice find.

Definilty try and keep it 12a those motors are alot of fun.

Kentetsu

Wow, where to start?

First of all, there's not a damn thing wrong with Nikki. Problems related to cold start issues are a mechanical issue which should be repaired just like anything else. Buying a new carb to solve a problem like that is like throwing out the TV because you don't get HBO on the one you've got....

If you do decide to start shopping for a performance carb, Sterling does an excellent job of modifying Nikki carbs for high performance demands. They work extremely well, and the cost is about a third of what a Holley setup runs. I've had mine for years, and it has served me well. Check out www.sterlingmetalworks.com if you get a chance.

The LSD is a great add on. You can put more power to the ground, avoid wheel slip powering out of turns, and slides (when they occur) are very controllable. You also get disc brakes as a bonus. You can usually find one for 2 or 3 hundred bucks, and installation takes an afternoon, a friend, and a case of beer...

And please, don't ever take your rotary to a mechanic again. We are much more trustworthy...

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

I just prefer Holley. I never said Nikkis were bad, just gave them a saying I didn't like them. He just needs to get his rebuilt so it isn't leaking anymore. I want to see some pics of that engine...

jdjl1987

I did just get started doing real work on her, so things like the engine bay and interior are very dirty. There's also the rust issue, I need to make her some new rocker panels, fenders, and probably floor. I'm getting oxy-acetylene welding training in may, so I might even replace the fame rails if they are bad, something my mig welder wouldn't quite be strong enough for. One of those things I won't know if I need to do until I start tearing other bits apart. Safest to say she needs some hot metal and fresh paint before she looks real pretty again.

I've been skimming sterling's website for the past few weeks in preparation for working on the carb, I'll make sure to read it full through before I get down to business.

The LSD rear is on the top of my list, the more you have command of your slides the more you look heroic No shortage of helping hands too, 3 of my friends and I came together to form something of a grassroots race team. They're gonna have to help me free if they expect their rust fixed.

I'm pretty much sworn off mechanics. It was a frustration move and it cost me .

I forgot to mention I have steering play at the wheel, about an inch or two before the wheels respond. I suspect it's the outer tie rod ends, but how would I check for this/is there any way to repair it or is it a replace kind of problem.

Kentetsu

Tie rod replacement is a pretty simple procedure, but you will have to have it aligned afterwards. Also, the idler arm is usually the first thing to go. If you need a new one, order a Moog idler arm. They are more expensive, but much more heavy duty and last forever.

Once all of that is done, then check out this thread here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...steering+grind



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OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to have to agree with what Kentetsu has said. The 12a is a real hoot to drive, and going with the -rew or TII swap right off the bat is like throwing the baby away with the bath water. It's just not needed. Kentetsu is a great example of what these cars are capable of with the right parts. How long has it been since you've gotten beat by a Porsche in CSP?

I have heard nothing but great things about Sterling Nikki carbs. People make respectable power on them, and they are apparently one of the most drivable carbs for the FB. Once I get everything sorted out on my FB, this will be my carb of choice.

My first FB was equipped with the RB Holley 465 setup for stock port/street port engines. It was an amusing combination, but I was not a fan of the vacuum secondaries, and from my experience, the "screw trick" for mechanical secondaries is kind of jankey.

Post more detailed pictures. We want to see what a 39,000 km car looks like.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

With the car sitting that long, I'm suprised the fuel looks that good. The second owner must have added some fuel to the tank because after 12 years it should have been goo. Best thing you can do while the carb is off for a rebuild is drop the fuel tank and have a radiator shop boil it out. It may need resealed afterwards due to rust. While the tank is out, spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner through the steel fuel lines, then blow the out with compressed air. I would replace all of the rubber hoses too, fuel, vacuum and radiator/heater. Have the radiator checked too, coolant isn't designed to last that long.

If you're going to make your own rocker panels, take pics and post the progress. Many here would like to know how to repair thier's.

jdjl1987

I thought about what you guys said in respects to my wanting of the engine swap. It looks like with all the bits I would need it would be up to a least 4grand without a rebuild, so I would have to save for most of the summer to afford it, and would have nothing of use as the fun money built up. Frankly, I don't want to miss out on yet another auto cross season. This year the first week is at then end of May.
So handling upgrades it is!
I've been looking at getting RB sway bar & spring package as well as Tokico Illumina struts with a full urethane bushing set for good measure. Suggestions on this?

My camera went kaput so my picture taking comprises of text messaging the picture to my e-mail off the cell phone. I'll get more pictures of it's neglect as soon as I can.

Rockers are actually pretty straight forward once you have the right tools/measurements/tricks. I could even make some for others, but a welder and some auto body skills would be required to make them purdy. I'll get detail photos of the progress as it's made.

Kentetsu

I just gave some advice in another thread which you might want to take a look at, especially since you are considering going with Racing Beat for suspension upgrades (you will most likely outgrow what they can provide you). Check it out:

https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=830366

If you want to autocross, definitely upgrade the suspension before considering engine swaps. I've never lost a race due to a lack of horsepower. I race in CSP, and as Whitey has pointed out I haven't been beaten by a Porsche in over two years (a Porsche running in any class, that is, and we get some really nice ones around these parts). Even Miatas don't concern me much anymore.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Josh, you have a really great opportunity for a solid restoration project. that car has the potential to be a sweet oem rebuilt car and the low mileage is super impressive. we will definatly look forward to more pics!

jdjl1987

Thanks Kentetsu, that's exactly the advice I was looking for. I don't want to spend money one something I will be left wanting with. Do it right the first time.
Would you consider using the no welding required coil over (7" springs instead of 8" on the ones you have to weld) to be an acceptable move? Does losing an inch of spring present any severe drawbacks?
I'll be buying these things bit by bit over the summer, any suggested order get them in?

Thanks, I'll get more photos as soon as I can!

Kentetsu

On the race version, which requires welding, you remove the stock perch completely and weld a new "perch" a bit lower than that. This gives you much more room to play with when it comes to lowering the car.

With the Street version (no welding) the adjuster sits directly on the stock perch. This allows you to lower the car, but not as much.

I don't know what the actual difference is (in available adjustment) so you might want to PM Billy and ask him (Bwaits). All I can tell you is that when I asked him that question, telling him that I wanted an autocrosser that I could still daily drive, he advised me to get the race version. So I would guess that this would apply to you as well.

I don't have a welder, or the skill needed to weld, but it only cost me 20 bucks to have it done for me. Its a pretty simple job to get done...


As far as what order to get things in, that's kind of tough. Probably start with bushings, so that as you pull various suspension parts off to upgrade them you can install the new bushings as you go. Struts would be installed along with the coilovers (since you pull all that off the car anyway), and camber plates. Just think about what comes off with every change, and try to plan from there...

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

I'd suggest doing the steering first, bushings second, suspension third.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Not to start any ****, and this is where I will end it, but going back to what g14novak said, I have started my car with a Sterling 465CFM Nikki in the middle of a Canadian winter, with no problems. She starts up the same as summer and runs just fine. Considering you live in sunny Florida, I doubt you have the kinds of problems people furthur north might have.

Back to the rust issue, you'll need to pull out the storage bins and check underneath. The joint of the fender and floorpan is prone to rust, due in large part to Mazda's screw up. They did not properly weld the upper rear link mount, and this allows water to get in between the mount and body and start it's work. This can cause serious damage and the mount can possibly be pulled off the body.

jdjl1987

Good point
Also good point, considering mine is sloppy like a meatball sub
Ironically enough I do, though I don't know if I trust my little auto body duty MIG for the job. Ideally my Oxy-Acetylene class will let us bring our own projects in, or if anything pester my instructor to do it in like 5 minutes, probably cheep as free. The no weld street ones are also more expensive, so I guess laziness loses this round.
I got mine started at -20 celsius with the dirty carb and nasty gas. It took a doing and a freshly juiced battery, but I happened. Refused to idle with the choke in until it was warm, but again shitty gas and dirty carb. So I'll have to agree.
Yeah, not to worry, I will be going on a rust hunt. Interior is coming out and everything is getting repaired and hit with my good buddy POR-15 then rockerguard paints so it wont see rust again on the underside for another 20 years.
So looks like my order will be steering(full moog set, 217$), bushings(155$), struts/coil overs/springs(910$!), Tubular re-speed front sway bar(250$).
I'm getting my friend to see about machine me some adjustable camber plates, and I'll also need that lsd rear end, if you see any in good condition north of the border let me know!(~250-300$)
around 1850$ all in. Not to shabby. Going by Kentetsu's video's and the severe lack of any kind of body roll, defiantly worth the money.

jdjl1987

Just got the carb off, starting the rebuild. It's gonna be a long night.

jdjl1987

I now have the carb apart. The problem seemed to be the secondarys, I couldn't open them by hand even with some determination, they were heavily gunked shut. It's probably one of the reasons it died coming on the the highway, heavier acceleration, more load, and the secondarys couldn't open. I have the better part of the dirt and oxidation off, but apparently I've run out of painters tape, so I'll have to wait untill tomorrow to go get some so I can give it a coat of paint. Anny suggestions on colour?
Also, pictures of my work area before and after. I'll have pictures of the rest of the car soon I promise.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

wow, doing a carb rebuild on the kitchen floor. Your parents/wife/SO must be very understanding.

jdjl1987

Good guess, but it's in a finished basement. The garage is still a little chilly at night and has terrible lighting, so it's the only place the dogs wont investigate.

jdjl1987

So, no camera still so stuck with cell phone crappyness.
The first image is of my ripped seat. That's the driver's side, the passenger is in decent condition.
Second is driver side rear wheel well. Hole straight through! This whole area needs to be redone, it gets worse.
Third is passenger side rear wheel well, the hole goes through the inner steel too, and the edge is destroyed up all around the wheel.
I got under her and found that I could poke the carpet from underneath, so more work is going to be needed that I previously was expecting in terms of body. I guess I'll have to pull the interior and give it the business.
Last picture is of the rebuilt carb! I hit it with a little paint to keep the oxidation away, and have contemplated making the secondarys mechanical, but I want to make sure it works first.
On the topic of secondarys, another potential problem I discovered during the rebuild. They were varnished shut. I couldn't open them by hand even until a lot of work with liquid wrench and carb cleaner. I figure there was no way the vacuum could have gotten them open so yet another reason for it's death on the highway.
My bajo screens are destroyed and they don't make them anymore. That's my last obstacle. Anybody have any extras in good condition?
I owe thanks to all those on the forums, and sterling's carb rebuild guide.
I get my welder back from my friends place on maybe Monday, then it's time to get down with the body.

jdjl1987

My father got a truck, as you can see below. It's an 82' gmc 6.2 litre diesel 1500 cab with 2500 back. He's been conscripting me to weld it's frame back together and do the bodywork on it. It's going flat back and is taking up all my time. I can't complain because now I'll have something to tow my rally cars and pull road trips for parts in.

Some work I did do:
Vac lines turned to dust, so I'm just going to remove the emissions. Got the air pump off and found the replacement belt did not want to get over the pulleys as it was just big enough. So I figured I would just pop the pulleys off and then slip them on after the belt was in the tracks. It was a great plan that was supposed to save me a headache. Unfortunately, like the rest of the bolts on the car, they had accumulated moisture around the heads. 3/4 of the lower pulley bolt's heads popped off, and one on the fan pulley. Now i have to pull the goddamn rads to get a clear line to the snapped off necks to drill into and use an extractor on. It has AC too so that's like twice the non fun.

Since I'm busy during daylight hours, I'm making use of my time inside at night. Took the rad cowl off and started cleaning it up. Hand sanded down with 60 grit to get all the bubbles out then hit with a filling primer and a quick coat of black via spray bomb. It would probably be 'ok' to use, but the wells caused by rusting are still evident, as well as sanding scratches. Basically I'm not done with it yet. I'll be smoothing it out proper and then going to some higher grit business.

The plan with this bit it to then take a mold and then make fibreglass replacement piece. I hope to do this for many other parts and making them available to you lovely folks. There are lots of little bits on 7's that can easily be turned to fibreglass or cf, and a lack of people doing the work, so I figure I'll work on building up a repertoire of molds. Any request? Rocker panels maybe?

Here's hoping business drops just a little at work and I get this truck done quick. I doubt I'll make enough headway to hit up the first autocross event on may 24th, lets just hope I can make it for the rallycross event on the 30th as we only have 3 of those a year.