My Plan
03-31-02, 10:42 AM
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My Plan
Ok, this is what i think ill try.
1) ATF Treatment. Ill go to wal mart and get some today (since pep-boys is closed today) and pour it in using the instructions from mazspeed (For carbureted engines, pour 2 oz. Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (the cheap stuff is fine) down each primary bore (the small ones) of the carb, while an assistant cranks the engine for 5 seconds or so.) Then, i take it, let it sit as long as i can.....tell the neighbors mycar ISNT on fire..and crank the bitch up. Let it idle at like 3000 rpm for like 5-10m, then go drive the **** out of it on the freeway. When you crank it after i poured in the ATF, ive got to have the wires of the igniton thingys off right? Like, take the wires off the two coils that plug into the distributor, cause without those no spark, correct? And if i do it this way, i dont got to pull the plugs out till AFTER its done, right?
2) new plugs and new wires
3) Oil Change
I replaced the air filter like 200 miles ago, so it should be o.k.
4) Now, im going to then set the mixture screw the way mike said.
The mixture screw is clockwise is leaner and counter clockwise is richer. Screw it all the way in and back it out about 2 1/2 turns...Not sure what that will get you w/o a gas analyzer but thats how I have set a lot of carbs after rebuilds...
Now, those turns, they turns of the SCREW or turns of the screwdrive? I take it you mean screw.
Last 2 questions..what ATF brand do YOU all recomend (does it make a diff?) What brand plugs, and, i know some people say dont do ATF with a cat, but this shouldnt be a problem right? We replaced the cat like 5 years ago, so this isnt the orginal one. Ive never ATF'd the engine so im sure it would make a difference.
Anyways, thats my plan, what do you all think
BTW, in case you didnt catch it this is so i can pass emissions, my HC count was pretty high
1) ATF Treatment. Ill go to wal mart and get some today (since pep-boys is closed today) and pour it in using the instructions from mazspeed (For carbureted engines, pour 2 oz. Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (the cheap stuff is fine) down each primary bore (the small ones) of the carb, while an assistant cranks the engine for 5 seconds or so.) Then, i take it, let it sit as long as i can.....tell the neighbors mycar ISNT on fire..and crank the bitch up. Let it idle at like 3000 rpm for like 5-10m, then go drive the **** out of it on the freeway. When you crank it after i poured in the ATF, ive got to have the wires of the igniton thingys off right? Like, take the wires off the two coils that plug into the distributor, cause without those no spark, correct? And if i do it this way, i dont got to pull the plugs out till AFTER its done, right?
2) new plugs and new wires
3) Oil Change
I replaced the air filter like 200 miles ago, so it should be o.k.
4) Now, im going to then set the mixture screw the way mike said.
The mixture screw is clockwise is leaner and counter clockwise is richer. Screw it all the way in and back it out about 2 1/2 turns...Not sure what that will get you w/o a gas analyzer but thats how I have set a lot of carbs after rebuilds...
Now, those turns, they turns of the SCREW or turns of the screwdrive? I take it you mean screw.
Last 2 questions..what ATF brand do YOU all recomend (does it make a diff?) What brand plugs, and, i know some people say dont do ATF with a cat, but this shouldnt be a problem right? We replaced the cat like 5 years ago, so this isnt the orginal one. Ive never ATF'd the engine so im sure it would make a difference.
Anyways, thats my plan, what do you all think
BTW, in case you didnt catch it this is so i can pass emissions, my HC count was pretty high
Last edited by TheAMAZINGNorad; 03-31-02 at 11:37 AM.
03-31-02, 02:00 PM
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Use a turkey baster (US$2 from Wal*Mart) and a short piece of hose like fuel line to shoot the ATF into the lower spark plug holes.
Even better would be Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO)... You Don't want to destroy your catalytic converter with ATF that isn't designed to burn.
Shoot a bit of MMO in and yank on the belts to turn the engine over ONE full rotation of the crank pulley. (Use tape to mark where you started.) Shoot some more and turn again. Shoot more. (In the end you should have three shots of ATF in one plug hole with a turn between each. Now goto the other lower plug hole in the other rotor housing. Repeat the same things.
This stops you from getting crap in your carb and intake.
To adjust the mixture screw, the following is condensed steps from the 1985 Shop manual. 1979 and 1980 cars are different, all others should be similar.
1.) Warm the engine up. (All accessories should be OFF. Remove the fuel cap. Disconnect the richer solenoid.)
2.) Turn Idle air screw so that idle speed is 800 RPM (900 for automatic tranny)
3.) Adjust mixture screw so that engine speed increases. Attain the highest idle speed you can get just by turning this screw.
4.) Re adjust the Idle air screw to 800 RPM (900 for auto)
5.) Turn the idle screw IN to return the idle speed to 750 RPM. (850 for automatic.)
Repeat as necessary. It is reccomended to adjust the TPS after setting the mixture or idle speed.
Even better would be Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO)... You Don't want to destroy your catalytic converter with ATF that isn't designed to burn.
Shoot a bit of MMO in and yank on the belts to turn the engine over ONE full rotation of the crank pulley. (Use tape to mark where you started.) Shoot some more and turn again. Shoot more. (In the end you should have three shots of ATF in one plug hole with a turn between each. Now goto the other lower plug hole in the other rotor housing. Repeat the same things.
This stops you from getting crap in your carb and intake.
To adjust the mixture screw, the following is condensed steps from the 1985 Shop manual. 1979 and 1980 cars are different, all others should be similar.
1.) Warm the engine up. (All accessories should be OFF. Remove the fuel cap. Disconnect the richer solenoid.)
2.) Turn Idle air screw so that idle speed is 800 RPM (900 for automatic tranny)
3.) Adjust mixture screw so that engine speed increases. Attain the highest idle speed you can get just by turning this screw.
4.) Re adjust the Idle air screw to 800 RPM (900 for auto)
5.) Turn the idle screw IN to return the idle speed to 750 RPM. (850 for automatic.)
Repeat as necessary. It is reccomended to adjust the TPS after setting the mixture or idle speed.
03-31-02, 02:51 PM
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Ok, how much MMO should i squirt in there and whats that TPS? I got some MMO i have been adding to the gas, so i guess i can use that. Rest of it sounds pretty simple, and the MMO will burn off and not hurt the cats as much?
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