ray green

iTrader: (14)

I think Al Core is Candadian, I'm not sure, he's from Tennessee.

Happy Canada Day!

Ray

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Lol, no I think you're getting confused. He only claims to have invented Canada.. Right before he invented the internet

Jon

djjjr42

Nice work Ray! I'm glad to see you trying this out on one of your 7s. It was this DJ who was urging you to take the plunge and do away with the nest. Is this the one that has the headers installed? Are you running stock timing? If so you might try advancing it some and see how you like that.
Are you going to the 7/7/7 event in Savannah? I'll be there, hope you can make it.
DJ

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Hey Jon- will be looking for your stripped-nikki tuning thread - !!
yeah mine IS a Sterling - its an NOS carb I got off ebay that I fired directly over to Carl, which accounts for its museum-like presentation. Never Raced or Rallyed - or had a drop of fuel thru it
Looked so good I asked Carl NOT to remove the excess hardware, but now that I see how much the **** WEIGHS I am thinking I might want to remove some of the superfluous stuff... ;p
The mani its on is one of Carl's "ported" 79 mani's....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Thanks DJ, with apologies to Sam, I give you full credit for leading me down the road to ruin.

This is not the one with the RB headers that I picked up a few months ago, that one is The Silver One, a really nice 85 GSL. This is the White One, an 84 GSL I've been driving for the last few years. I'm practicing on the White One so when I redo the Silver One I might know what I'm doing.

I didn't change the timing, I'm using the stock 0 degrees TDC for the lead setting. I'll try advancing it and I'll even read the manual to be sure I'm moving it the right way, but you might want to give me a hint just in case my dyslexia gets the best of me.

Savannah is a good distance from here, a nice drive through the GA countryside for sure. But I can't afford the time, I've got an NSF proposal due 7/12 and need to stay glued to the computer. If you pass by Jefferson GA on your way down stop in for a visit, you can tell me what I'm doing wrong (with the car, not the grant).

Thanks Jon, you are right, he invented Canada. That means if we elect him president he'll treat you guys real good, right? Maybe stop the glaciers from melting, in case Little Bush doesn't get it done in the next few years?

So I'm with Stu, let's get that stripped Nikki thread you promised up, I can use it to trouble shoot my stripped Nikki problems.

Thanks Ya'll

Ray

Greg Mix

Is Canada melting?

If big Al says so, it must br true.

djjjr42

Aw shucks, too bad you can't make it. I will be shooting straight down 95 so if Savannah's a haul for you then I'm guessing that's nowhere near you.
As for the timing (leading), loosen the nut at the distributor's base, and rotate it clockwise. For adjusting trailing, loosen the 2 screws on the dashpot closest to you on the distributor which will allow you to move it in or out. I believe pulling it out advances timing, pushing it in retards it. I am assuming you have a timing light, and with that it's pretty easy to tell which way advances and which one retards. I suggest you pick a spot to aim for on the pulley for leading (for instance, a quarter inch advanced from original), then duplicate that same distance when you adjust the trailing. Also I suggest you try Kentetsu's placement for the vacuum advance line. I think we discovered that if you follow the rat's nest tutorial for its placement, the nipple it hooks onto is not a proper vacuum source. Try hooking it up to the far left nipple, it should be capped now if you followed the tutorial. Then move the cap to where your line is now. He reported an increased throttle response and better gas mileage with it there. The good thing about changing your timing is that you can always get back to your original timing without the aid of the light. You will see the spots where the nut on the dizzy and screws on the dashpot were tightened down before.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Thanks DJ, I'll give those things a try. I have a timing light and the leading and trailing timing are set correctly now, so the relationship between the two should stay the same as I advance the timing, but if not I'll readjust the trailing like you describe.

I do have the vacuum advance line on the second nipple, according to the tutorial and the first nipple is blocked off because I don't have the AC in - the tutorial uses it for the AC. So this will be an easy thing to test out. I will do the timing change and nipple switch independently and then together and see if that will get me my 400 miles per tank.

Thanks for the tips, have fun in Savannah! If I get the grant done before the 7th, not likely, I might make it down. And yeh to get to Jefferson you need to travel down 85, we are about an hour NE of Atlanta.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Here's the news, I switched the vacuum line to the dizzy advance as suggested by DJ, originally by Kentetsu, and it made a big difference.

That second nipple doesn't suck, the first one does, I realized this as soon as I took the cap off the first nipple with the motor running. They are completely different, the second one doesn't suck.

Putting the vacuum advance line on the first one made my idle purr like a kitten, much better than the second nipple. Too many beers to take it out on the road this evening, but I suspect good things. I even had to readjust the idle and mixture, now it's sounding just right.

Thanks to DJ and Mr. Ken.

After I run a tank through this way, I'll record the results then try the timing advance trick. Might get 400 miles/tank yet.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Here's a video of Ken's solution:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIVF5MomLRM

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Sorry about the delay on the tutorial guys, stuff's been crazy lately.

It'll be worth it when it's ready though, I promise

It just won't be 56k friendly, that's for sure. And I'm trying to find a place to host it since it'll be a fairly sizeable pdf file. I should talk to Carl about where he's got his posted.

Jon

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Jon, if you use my video of the correct dizzy line vacuum hook up, I'm going to need to see some royalties. With kick backs to Ken.

Why don't you put your tutorial on CD's and sell it?

That's the American way!

djjjr42

I'm glad it worked well for you. The Nikki was out and the Weber was in before I could try switching the vac advance line. I look forward to seeing your mileage results.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Ray, i followed everything the correct way in your tutoral and my engine idles perfectly fine! i went to dlidfis and its even smoother now! i just upgraded to an FC fuse block and i'm very pleased with it! also Ray, i also wanted to ask you what you did with the connectors for the solenoids? did you snip them off or what?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I'll give a warning here - be careful when tracing back and snipping your wiring. You can end up with a mysterious battery drain like I've got.

Jon

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

well, Jon, i didnt snip them yet. they're just hanging out there. i kinda want to keep them just incase i ever need to go back t the dreaded rats nest. just wanting to know the best place for them.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

So Dave, did you connect your dizzy vacuum line to the first or second nipple?

Because I have another wiring harness to use if I put the rat's nest back in, I just snipped off the connectors, but I was careful to snip each of the two wires leading to each connector to different lengths so they couldn't contact each other. Then I wrapped the entire wiring harness in a new coat of plastic electrical tape, making sure the wires ended up on diffferent sides of the harness.

No electical drains so far and the car is running great. We'll see if I can start getting that 400 miles per tank I've been looking for.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

well, i hooked it up to the second nipple and didnt use the ac solenoid. i'll hook it up to the first nipple after reading that you had said that it has more suction. i have another wiring harness so i may just snip and wrap in super 33. why did you use the ac solenoid? are you still running with the ac?

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Initially I used the second nipple because Carl said so, even though long ago I had read Ken's comments about the first nipple being better for the dizzy vacuum. Then, after hearing several people refer to Ken's observation and after being specifically reminded of it by DJ in this post, I gave it a try. It worked, I was so pleased I made a movie about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIVF5MomLRM

If you doubt there is a difference, take the cap off your first nipple while the engine is running, you will get a huge vacuum leak that you can plug with your finger tip.

Then take the line off the number two nipple, on my car it didn't make any difference at all and there was no vacuum at the number two nipple.

Of course all this begs the question of what do you do if you do want to run AC, but for now that's not my problem, I don't have AC and I didn't even miss it today, after two hours of heavy afternoon Atlanta traffic and 94 degree heat. Hey, it's a sports car, not a friggin' Lexus.

So, I'm looking forward to Jon's revised and updated tutorial on rat's nest removals.

Ray

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

excellent! i'm not running ac either, so i'll have no problem switching to the first nipple. how do you think Jon's revised rats nest removal will compare to yours? yours works very well if you ask me!

DublyDurty

Ray,

Sorry to jump in here so late but I have an 83, Sterling carb, RB exhaust, Carter fuel pump, Holley FPR, rats nest removed, and A/C works great. Can I take pix or video or something to show you my setup? I'll answer any questions I can. Smoothe idle and no problems.

I followed Carl's tutorial.

I haven't done the DLIDFISWTF or whatever the hell that is


DD

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It's hard to remember seven letters.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Yeh I always wondered what DLIDFISWTF meant. DD, we'd love to see your pics, the more, the better to give people who might want to do this some references.

DD, which nipple do you have your dizzy vacuum hooked up to, the second as in Carl's tutorial? If so, have you tried switching it to the first nipple? Who knows, it might run even better. I am curious about the nipple switch and hope somebody who understands it will give us an explanation.

As far as my rat's nest removal goes, I think I am done. All that remains is to check the gas mileage over the next few tanks of gas. If it's down significantly (more that 2 mpg) I'll be putting the rat's nest back in, totally restored of course (and with pictures for the forum). But if the mileage is the same or better, I'll keep it like it is, I sure like the simplicity and nicer working space.

I suspect Jon's devised rat nest's removal method willl be similar to mine, which is similar to Carl's, which was derived, I suppose, from the folk wisdom handed down over the years by guys who have been doing this since emissions were invented.

However, this being 2007, I expect Jon's tutorial to be crystal clear, full of unambiguous and informative photos, free of errors, complete with movies and easily understood by people who don't work in a shop.

Right Jon?

Ray

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

DLIDFIS= dual leading ignition direct fire ignition system.
i think its works very well!!! i did it and used an FC trailing coil pack, with removed ignitor and the setup is fantastic! it took about 45 mins to install and thats with soldering the wiring, heat shrinking as necessary, and looming the wiring for a clean install. i'll take some pics today and post them this afternoon.