Is my cooling system that good? or is my thermostat gone...
Is my cooling system that good? or is my thermostat gone...
Hey guys! Reciently got an 82 FB and after driving it for a while i've noticed that after it "warms up" the thermostat never goes above 1/4th of the gague.. no matter what...
I know the fan is attached to the engine and that helps in cooling a lot... but im begining to think that my thermostat has been disconnected... is there any way i could tell? i've honestly got no idea what to look for...
Thanks!
-TOFUDRIFTER
I know the fan is attached to the engine and that helps in cooling a lot... but im begining to think that my thermostat has been disconnected... is there any way i could tell? i've honestly got no idea what to look for...
Thanks!
-TOFUDRIFTER
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Only time my stock in-dash water temp gauge ever rises above the quarter-scale area (or even lower) is if I'm stuck in traffic for hours on a 100*-plus day, and even then I never cross half. My aftermarket oil-temp gauge shows a consistent below 170 temp unless I'm really beating on the old girl.
I did get well into the upper half during a canyon cruise earlier in the summer, but this was running full-grunt up steep grades for long periods.
Your cooling system might just be working properly.
Only two ways I know of to check if you have a thermostat installed:
1) open up the top water pump neck connection and look for it, which makes a mess.
2) from a dead-cold start, open the rad cap and see if you have rapid circulation of coolant taking place. Coolant can only circulate rapidly through the rad in a dead-cold car if the t-stat is either missing, or stuck open.
I did get well into the upper half during a canyon cruise earlier in the summer, but this was running full-grunt up steep grades for long periods.
Your cooling system might just be working properly.
Only two ways I know of to check if you have a thermostat installed:
1) open up the top water pump neck connection and look for it, which makes a mess.
2) from a dead-cold start, open the rad cap and see if you have rapid circulation of coolant taking place. Coolant can only circulate rapidly through the rad in a dead-cold car if the t-stat is either missing, or stuck open.
haha thats friggin crazy.. i've always read rotaries overheat all the time... but dayum.. thats a good coolant system XD
Thanks!
i do have to fix my lack of an A/C compressor... and that annoying "buzzer" thats supposed to go off when i over-rev dosent go off... maybe thats a good thing, but i want it fixed anyway..
Thanks!
i do have to fix my lack of an A/C compressor... and that annoying "buzzer" thats supposed to go off when i over-rev dosent go off... maybe thats a good thing, but i want it fixed anyway..
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,740
Likes: 6
From: Las Vegas, NV
Once its gets near halfway keep a close eye on it. Above that shut it off to be safe.
Nothing wrong with your cooling i'd say. Even with 100+ degree temps i'm only at 1/4 -1/3 on the guage with a turbo in the bay
Nothing wrong with your cooling i'd say. Even with 100+ degree temps i'm only at 1/4 -1/3 on the guage with a turbo in the bay
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
The "official" overheat line is the top inside hash-mark, but I'd never let mine get there before finding out whats wrong.
Rotaries (leastwise, the ones with FMOC's) cool just fine so long as they are maintained properly.
Rotaries (leastwise, the ones with FMOC's) cool just fine so long as they are maintained properly.
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