So Im working on a 12a turbo project and my plans are doing it on the cheap. I mean like going to the junk yard or hitting up ebay cheap. DONT flame for such things. This thing is my project, not yours and I do what I wanna not what you wanna. ok. now that thats outta the way I do want some advice, but first the run down.
I got a S5 turbo and exhaust mani. Im going to elongate the bolt holes and make any other modifications to make it fit (from what ive ascertained all I need to do is elongate the bolt holes though.) Im getting a 48 ida weber and Im welding together my own carb hat (if it works out and theres a demand I may start producing these for others who want one) Then Im going to get the BOV and such things that I can from ebay.
Ok, now what I wanna know is what is a good place to start jet wise on the carb tuning. I dont mind going rich but I wanna avoid going lean. Anyone run a IDA with boost? The engine is staying stock ported. (port job is going on the 13btII thats going in another car) any info or advice or things to look out for on a boosted IDA is appreciated. Thanks

 

The IDA has a brass float which can crush under boost so you'll need to address that.

 

about how much boost can it handle? Im not looking for much boost, 10 psi tops but probably more likely around 7. guess after that its all just test and tune huh? no one else has tryed this carb with boost?

 

Pro's will let you know to use the IDF for boosted applications, I forgot why though.

 

yeah, Im sure they would, but I have an ida and Im not going to spend more to get that carb. If a nikki can be boosted then I have no doubt an IDA can too.

 

ida wont work oer or idf . i seen where peeps make a tiny hole in the brass floats and use this inject foam on it which has worked but it wont last forever.

 

ahh, thats an idea. and a small quick tack on it to reseal it. I just wonder how it would "float" compared to the empty float.

 

hah. Good news Better news and bad news.
First the good, carb came today.
the better, Its a DCOE not and IDA, better for boost?
bad, is the carb made out of steel or aluminum or die cast? Im guessing aluminun as its so light for its size. Its got a crack that runs down one side where the venturi hold bolt goes in. I can weld it no problem but if its aluminum I might just JB weld it instead so I dont have a mess to clean on the inside of the bore.

 

i would jb weld at all. do it and do it right. b4 you go and weld it get ahold of robert at www.rotaryshack.com he is the weber pro!

 

Naa, Im going to stick with the JB weld. It will work fine, its just a little crack. webers are made from cast aluminium. That **** is hard enough to weld with out the years of gas getting absorbed into it as well, that stuff will burn way to fast and before I know it my little fixable crack will become a big hole.
So no one here knows about running boost through a DCOE? are you serious? wow. Oh well.

 

First of all, JB probably wont hold up to boost for long. Sure, it could, but why take chances? You need to seal all points where boost can escape and remove the choke. Ebay can help and it can also hurt. Also, I would have gone with an S4 turbo instead, as the S5 is a higher placement than the previous gen.

And I may be taking your posts slightly offensively, but if you want help then ask and dont get defensive. Some things you have to find out on your own, or search for it.

 

It would float just as easily as if it didnt have the foam in it. You are not injecting it with lead. It is more of a water displacement vs added weight of the foam (which is next to nothing). Worse comes to worse, you have to raise your floats a hair.

 

The turbo's can handle 12psi Tops, and that is with a ported wastegate. My research is mainly on S4 turbos. If you do not port the internal wastegate, expect a little boost creep, especially when you turn the boost higher.

 

Sorry for the repetitive posting, but if you want to keep it cheap, then why buy another carb when the nikki will do just fine? Also, are you doing blowthrough or draw through? Have you given thought to fuel systems and ignition upgrades? You know that turbo cars run colder spark plugs, Need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and a better coil will help as well. Also, how are you going to get the fuel to return to the pump?

Edit: err, I mean tank lol.

 

I too am doing a turbo 12A project currently. Good luck with yours. I hope to see your completed before mine is. I'm definitely not going cheap on anything, lol.

 

DCOE's work great with boost. I would talk to www.rotaryshack.com. They have built many blowthrough setups and have a lot of experience.

Good luck.

And yeah, don't be so defensive, we aren't Rotary ****'s.

 

+1 hahahaha mine started out on the cheap, now it's looking to be more than 3 times what I paid for the car LOL. With an S5 turbo, porting and cliping the wastegate should get you 14psi max effeciently. If you want more, hybrid is the way to go

 

I didnt mean to come off too defensive. just a touch. any way, i got the whole carb and intake setup for 155. So it wasnt to much compaired for what even used ones go for. Im still not sold on welding the carb though. Id rather keep putting jb weld on it then mess it up welding it, especially since aluminum requires more heat then steel of the same thickness to get good penetration. It would burn through real fast. Maybe if it where thicker. Ive got the fuel thought of, Holley blue and a rising rate FPR. CHoke is already gone. I already have the s5 turbo stuff from another project that is actually changed up. The ignition is going to be direct fire via jeff20b's setup. DCOE's are deadhead carbs, fuel return shouldnt be an issue i dont think.
Now Im not saying I quite know everything Im doing here, but I do have the concepts down and access to all the equipment Ill need. I do imagine I will run into snags, but thats why places like this exist

 

No problem man, we are here to help one another. Again, I must strongly advise to get the carburetor welded or take it to a professional welder to have it fixed. Sure, JB weld is cheaper route, but if a pieve brakes off and gets "boosted" down your manifold, I bet that 100$ professional weld job would look tons better than a new engine.

 

cracks not that big, just enough to see a line on both sides. put a nice coat over top and its good to go.

 

Hay keep them comming,,, its getting me to mabey go a mod or two. to my little rx 7