1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

My 1/4 mile time

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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 12:55 AM
  #26  
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The fuel pump *IS* a priority. Why do you think Racing Beat says you can only floor the throttle for a couple seconds without running lean with the RB Dell and stock fuel pump?

Again, just because you know your fuel pressure at idle does not mean it isn't dropping at high rpm in 3rd gear.

Go ahead and run lean if you want, but for the cheap price of a fuel pump and FPR, it hardly seems worth it to me. For *** sakes, it's one of the cheapest mods.

If you're going to set your car up, do it right in the first place. Don't do things half-assed and leave out needed parts. And I sure wouldn't go doing 1/4 mile runs without a good fuel supply either.

BTW, installing a good fuel pump on a car with only a full exhaust and Nikki carb makes a noticeable difference - a difference you can feel. And it's absolutely necessary on a car with an aftermarket carb.

Winnipeg, I don't know anything about V8's, nor am I at all interested This discussion pertains to 12A rotary engines with aftermarket carbs, and they need upgraded fuel pumps.

Last edited by SilverRocket; Dec 3, 2002 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:23 AM
  #27  
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MY NEW NAME IS ROTARY 7S
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From: Cell Block 4 (LOCKDOWN)
Originally posted by Zulu
I had a 3.0s 60' on my best launch (went from idle), the rest I just nuked the tires and went slower :p 2nd gear was useless, I'd let the tires grab then get back on the gas and they'd nuke again - it'd never do that on the road. Something about the track surface and my winter tires

O'well, time to try a g-tech just to put my mind at ease, hehe. I suspect low 14s with real tires, and if I had slicks I'm sure I could hit a 13.9
What do you have to make you think you will be runing them times?

The G tech is the biggest waste of money,You want real 1/4 times..GO to the track.You want to know HP ...DYNO it..

The G tech is a unacurate $250. POS....
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:26 AM
  #28  
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MY NEW NAME IS ROTARY 7S
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Talking about fuel pumps,
I think they Holley blue is one of the best fuel pumps out there for its price.

I have had mine for 2-3 yrs on my car..Its rebuild able BUT I havent rebuilt it yet.

It comes with a Fuel pressure regulator,
RacingBeat has stats somewhere how much PSI you will need for what carb.

Stock is 4 PSI and I run a 600 Double pumper,RB says to put Holleys at 6 PSI where I have mine set.I dont have any lack of fuel .
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:38 AM
  #29  
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EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
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You want real 1/4 times..GO to the track
Ditto.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:41 AM
  #30  
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I suspect low 14s with real tires, and if I had slicks I'm sure I could hit a 13.9
Don't be so sure. Remember that stock FD's typically run low to mid 14's depending on the variables.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 07:50 AM
  #31  
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Trap speed has little to do with traction and 60' times, but a lot to do with horsepower. At high engine speeds you are probably running lean and not making as much power as you could.

G-Tech is only $140 (the first one at least) and although inaccurate compared to a real track, very consistent and a good tool for some that like to tinker with mods and settings to find out wha the best is. Given the same launch technique, it is consistent and precise enough to show relative improvements in performance. For many people it is just a toy, but it is effective for tuning. Great for those that don't have a 1/4 mile track within an hour's drive, or want to spend $20 every week.

Aaron
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 01:08 PM
  #32  
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From: somewhere
Originally posted by SilverRocket


Don't be so sure. Remember that stock FD's typically run low to mid 14's depending on the variables.

Yes, I used a vehicle acceleration simulation program (cartest) and entered my vehicles known weight, 2400lbs, projected power outputs, and then played with different tires (kinetic and static friction). I got everything from 16 to 13.9 with 'perfect' launches depending on the tire. I suspect I'd run mid to low 14s with 'real' tires. Slicks is a whole new game, launching at redline baby - just think, if I ran a 15.4 with a 3 second 60', cut 1.5 seconds off that for a 13.9, without running any faster the entirety of the remaining track, which I'll add I was still slipping thru I think it's doable.


And, a G-Tech can be very accurate if you use it propperly, your MPH will be different from a track as it's measured differently. Overall I'd only compare G-Tech times with other G-Tech times, and track times with other track times. I just happen to know someone with one, that's all.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 04:07 PM
  #33  
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From: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Originally posted by SoRRoW

The G tech is the biggest waste of money,You want real 1/4 times..GO to the track.You want to know HP ...DYNO it..

The G tech is a unacurate $250. POS....
You are so incredibly wrong , it hurts...the reason people get bogus numbers is because they are too incompetent or too lazy to follow the directions and set the box up right...I ran the GTech in a campus parking lot in HP mode and it spit out an avg of 134 HP over 3 runs...earlier this year, I did get on the dyno. The carb was crapped out, but it still churned out 113 RWHP at 7500 rpm. Figure in drivetrain loss and that's about 130 HP at the flywheel, so the GTech was on the money...and it's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper to do a lot of GTech runs. That one dyno session that lasted all of 45 minutes cost $75....
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 04:36 PM
  #34  
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O.K. I will go and get a better fuel pump and see if that makes things better. But tires I think would help my times better. I am sliding quite a bit and have to let go of the gas a little bit to get it to grab. I will do the fuel pump first though, tires are expensive.
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