Slow_sevens

Rebuilt engine, first start. Nikki carb car. I want to follow the advice to turn over the engine for a few seconds to circulate oil BEFORE allowing the engine to actually start. Fell down a rabbit hole of research, and came out with simply pulling the fuse marked ENGINE 20A from the box under the dash which will prevent the fuel pump from working. Is preventing the fuel pump from working really as simple as pulling that single fuse, or does that fuse also turn off other things you want on when cranking the engine? Do I instead need to pull the storage box behind the seats to access the fuel pump wiring connection that is behind it and uncouple the fuel pump there? Without the interweb I would have just disconnected the cables between the coils and the distributor but now believe that is a bad idea and am paranoid about screwing things up. Thanks!

Slow_sevens

When cranking engine to circulate oil (with fuel pump off) remove spark plugs to reduce compression load on starter/battery? And if so.... leave them attached to their wires so they can fire, or unplug the wires at the distributor or unplug the wires at the coils?
I used to be a bicycle mechanic. So much simpler.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

u can pull the IG fuse. this should disable ignition.

RussXSeven

Pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay is what I usually do, too. I leave the plugs and wires as is.

DummyFixer

Disabling the fuel pump may not do the trick. If the carb is full, it may start anyway. Removing the spark plugs not only prevents starting it as has been previously stated lowers the load on the starter.

Slow_sevens

Decided to do everything. Removed the spark plugs,disconnected the coils from the wiring harness and was on the way to the fuse box to see if I had a separate fuel pump fuse when I heard DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP DRIP. Got me a hole in the radiator and a leaking water pump gasket. The former is most likely from it banging around in the shed for three months, the latter 'cause I missed the two shims that work together with the gasket. Next rabbit hole... replace the always on fan and leaky radiator with an electronic fan/radiator unit?

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Electric radiator fan(s) will need a stronger alternator. Probably easier to just replace the fan clutch. For the radiator I'd recommend the KoyoRad.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Lots of good options for preventing fuel for start-up.
Your other Ask: pre-lube engine. This has been my GuideCoutesy Rob @ Pineapple Racing

Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
First Start:

Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:

Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.

Repeatedly fill oil adapter (ie oil filter pedestal) outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop oil line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine.

All oil lines should be attached.

Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. 2x more fills to the top after the 1st round gravity bleeds for a minute or 2.
[A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun. Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.]

Check for leaks.

The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.

After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.

Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.


Stu A
80GS
AZ