Mazda OEM T-stat
12-20-07, 09:56 PM
#1
djessence
Thread Starter
Mazda OEM T-stat
I know everyone recommends mazda oem thermostats, and i know its becuase they are the best. My dilemna is to get one mazda says 6 weeks for it and the lower rad hose. Read the threads, and whatnot they are not built to the same caliber, but 6 weeks is rediculous
Is there a best brand of non OEM t-stats to go with or is it one of those you are totally gonna regret not getting the oem one?
Cheers
Is there a best brand of non OEM t-stats to go with or is it one of those you are totally gonna regret not getting the oem one?
Cheers
12-20-07, 10:31 PM
#6
No distributor? No thanks
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It's not totally useless. The reason folks say not to use the generic t-stat is that the Mazda one has an extra feature, which is a plunger on the bottom. Traditional t-stats allow the coolant to recirculate in the block until it opens, and it opens both the recirculation path and the radiator path. The Mazda t-stat uses the plunger on the end to actively cap off the recirc path do drive more flow through the radiator. With most cheapos, you won't find this plunger and you'll lose cooling capacity.
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12-21-07, 09:15 AM
#11
I totally disagree with paying Mazda prices ($20 - $25) for a thermostat that is no better than the generic replacements you can get at autozone, discount auto, etc, for $5-7.
The only things you need to watch out for:
(A) be sure it fits (ie has the exact same dimensions as stock).
(B) be sure it has the jiggle pin (I think this is what Crit is talking about), it needs to point up during the installation to allow gases to escape.
(C) get one that opens at the right temp (180-185 degrees F).
(D) don't trust the guy or gal behind the counter or their parts catalogues, they tend to be very unreliable.
I like the duralast thermostats from autozone, they seem to be made better than the mazda ones, work fine and are very inexpensive, saving $$$ for other stuff.
Ray
The only things you need to watch out for:
(A) be sure it fits (ie has the exact same dimensions as stock).
(B) be sure it has the jiggle pin (I think this is what Crit is talking about), it needs to point up during the installation to allow gases to escape.
(C) get one that opens at the right temp (180-185 degrees F).
(D) don't trust the guy or gal behind the counter or their parts catalogues, they tend to be very unreliable.
I like the duralast thermostats from autozone, they seem to be made better than the mazda ones, work fine and are very inexpensive, saving $$$ for other stuff.
Ray
12-21-07, 10:50 AM
#14
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
12-21-07, 11:26 AM
#15
Brap, Brap, Ole!
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I totally disagree with paying Mazda prices ($20 - $25) for a thermostat that is no better than the generic replacements you can get at autozone, discount auto, etc, for $5-7.
The only things you need to watch out for:
(A) be sure it fits (ie has the exact same dimensions as stock).
(B) be sure it has the jiggle pin (I think this is what Crit is talking about), it needs to point up during the installation to allow gases to escape.
(C) get one that opens at the right temp (180-185 degrees F).
(D) don't trust the guy or gal behind the counter or their parts catalogues, they tend to be very unreliable.
I like the duralast thermostats from autozone, they seem to be made better than the mazda ones, work fine and are very inexpensive, saving $$$ for other stuff.
Ray
The only things you need to watch out for:
(A) be sure it fits (ie has the exact same dimensions as stock).
(B) be sure it has the jiggle pin (I think this is what Crit is talking about), it needs to point up during the installation to allow gases to escape.
(C) get one that opens at the right temp (180-185 degrees F).
(D) don't trust the guy or gal behind the counter or their parts catalogues, they tend to be very unreliable.
I like the duralast thermostats from autozone, they seem to be made better than the mazda ones, work fine and are very inexpensive, saving $$$ for other stuff.
Ray
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