The K&N filter is literally worth 5 HP by itself. Big cube boingers that need a ton of volume have seen 20 HP gains on a dyno just with that change. Pull out the Jeg's catalog and prder one right now...Go to the YawPower website and read how Paul wired everything if you've got the money for an MSD box. Also get an MSD RPM window switch to run as a trailing coil limiter if you pop for the MSD 6AL box which has a limiter chip port to cut your leading plugs. Look through the Forum and you'll find a thread on spark plugs but, again, you'll have to read the YawPower literature on how and where to side-cut the ground straps on the spark plugs recommended. (Was it?)geo46 ran a dyno test that showed a 10 HP gain just from the change tothe MSD direct fire w/o even optimizing the timing or jetting. If you don't have the big bucks but have a lot of spare ignitors, then PM jeff20B and see if you can persuade him to run the directions for this Forum. All of his articles were in the Mazspeed site last August or so...the jury is still out which kicks more ***...

 

When the N2O is heated the Nitrogen turns into oxygen, right? It is already one part oxygen and them becomes 100 oxygen. You are chemically forcing the engine to breath more oxygen. The more oxygen the more fuel = more power.

This is something I have seen argued on every forum I have been on. It really doesn't matter. It is all how you look at it.

 

Amen! I was just about to say the same thing. Nitrous may still technically be n/a but it gives similar results to forced induction so IMO it should be grouped as such. What pisses me off is when someone says they ran such and such a time or made whatever horsepower on an n/a engine. Then when you call BS and ask for their mods they proceed to rattle em off and at the end they mention "oh yeah, it's got a 100hp shot of nitrous." Why the hell didn't they just say that at the begining!

 

More power... I am going to have to say that your reasoning on N20 is wrong. Not to say that I am not wrong, but I believe that N20 only supplies the oxygen in the one oxygen atom. From what I have read, the nitrogen is just an added exhaust gas. I though I read somewhere that Nitrous Oxide adds more NOX emissions, which would seem to validate my thinking. However, let another comment on my reasoning!

Chris

 

Yep, N20 contains 33% oxygen (obviously) which is more than air and enables you to make more power (when more fuel is added) and no the nitrogen does not turn into oxygen when heated.

 

I can't tell the difference between a K&N and a paper filter. Hmm.

 

peejay. besides running cleaner, i am not really sure how you would notice the difference.. maybe someone will enlighten us

 

Naturally aspirated = naturally breathing. True, nitrous is not positive displacement, but one can not then merely conclude that an engine useing it is naturally aspirated. That would be akin to assuming that just because something is not blue it must be red where in actuality it could be yellow, green, pink, black or a myriad of other colors. And no, what is filling those chambers is definately not the atmosphere, it is gas from a pretty blue bottle.

 

Ahh... Frankie, just cuz it is Nitrous doesn't mean the bottle is blue! Why assume the bottle is blue? Isn't Venom's bottle black? It just might be the gas from a pretty black bottle! LOL Just makin trouble!

 

LOL! How did I know somebody was take a shot at that one.

 

Actually K&N's aren't as good as filtering air as the stock paper element! And if you want the BEST filtration possible, leave your air filter on for about 50,000 miles until it's a solid chunk of clay. Yes it hurts power a bit but all that dirt clinging to the outside serves as extra filtration.

I grabbed a normal, plain-jane, nothin'-special paper filter for an early 70's 318 2bbl Mopar, which is the same height and diameter as the Mazda filter but is less restrictive. Negligible cost.

 

The V8 they used for K&N's dyno test was a Lingenfelter built 396 in a Tahoe. They detuned it by putting a stock air cleaner setup on it and then put a K&N on it to ''gain'' the hp back....

Cam manufacturers do the same thing. They'll take a ''medium'' cam that is in a healthy running engine, cripple it by running a stocker cam, then switching their cam into it and ''gaining'' 70 hp. I've seen it done in Car Craft before.

The only time I ever gained more than 1 or 2 hp with an air filter change was when I made a 3'' TID for my Turbo II. And the power I got was only from the extra 2 psi I picked up from the better flow of the 3'' tube. And I only have a paper cone filter on it. A K&N will make a negligible difference.

 

So the only reason K&N is still around is because idiots keep buying?



What good is a K&N good for if it's over ten times the cost of paper stuff and makes for a negligible power gain?

 

The only benefit I see to it is that its reusable. All the big power gains people see from them are the full intake setup, with the tube and everything. If they just put a sock over the replacement tube, it'd still give them hp... All a K&N filter is made of is cotton and gauze sandwiched between some mesh. The oil in them is the only thing that traps the dirt. Thats why they are red instead of white.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Frankiesaysrelax
Naturally aspirated = naturally breathing. True, nitrous is not positive displacement, but one can not then merely conclude that an engine useing it is naturally aspirated. That would be akin to assuming that just because something is not blue it must be red where in actuality it could be yellow, green, pink, black or a myriad of other colors.[QUOTE]

Gone for a day and the gallery keeps filling... the color analogy is pure apples and oranges. You are, in fact, either naturally aspirated or not naturally aspirated. It is a black and white issue to use your color analogy in an appropriate manner.

I see this a lot in the Forum so it's definitely "definitely"...here's the test. Close off all incoming source of atmosphere and plug the nitrous into a plenum above the sealed carb feeding into it. Start nitrous flow before the engine. Crank the engine. If it can support the engine, it will rev quickly. Most likely the engine will blow but I'll leave that to another fella to find out in an actual experiment. Try the same thing with a blower...hell, it's already set up like that, so forget it...again, nitrous adds oxygen and cooling effects to increase chamber pressures. It does not add atmospheric pressures to increase intake charge which is the hallmark of un-naturally aspirated engines. This is why you ask if the engine runs on the motor or is it juiced. You can see (if they'll pop the hood) an un-naturally aspirated engine easily. When it's N/A and the driver says she's all motor, that's when you gotta take a harder look if he/she will allow it. Now I can see why sterling7 detonates on this Forum every once and a while! Are there any real rodders here or is the universe shrunk to rotaries only??

 

riffraff,
Did you say that your igniton was off your 80? Is it the points ignition?

Everybody recomends going to the later electronic dizzy and ignition setup.

I would do that immediatly at least.

 

'79 was points, '80 was electronic but the ignitors were mounted on the driver's side strut tower and '81 marked the introduction of the ignitor-on-distributor set-up that everyone really should be running...as an asides, if you're scavenging for ignitors in a boneyard, leave the "strut tower" ignitors alone, you want '81-'85 ignitors only...

 

yayarx7, yes my distributor and ignition are off of my 80. so they are electronic.

what would swapping to a 81 ignition require?

 

I will ask my borther but I think it is just a matter of wiring and dropping in the dizzy.

 

If it's already electronic then there's no need to swap ignitions. The only difference is that the 81 ignition has the ignitors mounted on the dizzy instead of on the left fender.

 

so there is no point in worrying about it... eventually i will probably try to wire up a msd box, but that is going to be a while from now.. so many other things that the rex needs