So long story short, I installed my full Racing Beat intake and exhaust in buddies front lawn this weekend and Its very close to running except for a few minor issues... I hope. So the Mallory fuel pump that they recommended was a huge pain in the *** to attach seeing as how it had to be mounted vertically and there is no ******* room on the car to do that so I had to put it in the drivers side storage bin, as you can see in the picture. Ok, so the car fires up, idles ( a bit rough but thats a timing and mixture issue) and then after a few minutes I try to go drive it and it dies on me. It runs fine until I hit the accelerator and then it bogs down and shuts off, and wont start again. At this time I am listening for the distinctive clunk of the monster fuel pump to happen when I hit the key and its a very quiet tinking sound instead. I put my hand on the pump and the thing is blazing hot... Is this the issue? Do I need to rewire this thing with some thicker wires or to a more powerful source instead of just using butt connectors and connecting it to the stock fuel pumps wiring? As a side note, I have not installed the mallory fuel pressure regulator yet, but I do not think this is the issue. Any insight on this problem is greatly appreciated.

 

Get that pump out of the inside of the cabin, NOW. There is room on the frame rail to mount the pump if you move the cut/check valve up a bit. You do need the fpr. If the pump is running hot, it may be due to a rexsriction in the fuel line between the pump and the inside of the tank.

 

What if you removed your check/cut valve completely? As far as I know it cuts off the fuel when your upside down...

 

I spent an hour laying under the car trying to manuever the thing all over and anywhere I try to mount it even remotely vertical it seems to hang much too low. I am scared that an errant speed bump will take it off. Cut check valve eh? I will have to take another look at it tomorrow after work. Is having it in the cabin that big of a deal? It seems rather dangerous when I think about it but it doesnt show any signs of leaking so far... I suppose the angle of the lines having to suck fuel UP into the bin through the pump and then back out could be screwing me... At least I am pretty sure this is the main issue at the moment.

Also, I am completely lost on the FPR. The instructions that came with it are pretty vague and the thing has a buncha damn holes in it, which does what? I am assuming I should be mounting it in the engine bay near the carb?

 

Having the pump inside the cabin is a big safety issue. The fpr can be mounted on the firewall. There should have been instructions that came with it, if not, post the brand and model.

 

I've got mine mounted on a diagonal under the car, not horizontal, but not perfectly vertical, hugging the underside of the bins. It took two tries to get it in a spot where the rear swaybar didn't hit it, but I got it mounted.

My first pump died because I left the check valve in place. Having that huge restriction that close to the pump puts a lot of pressure on it. I removed the check valve and mounted the replacement in the same location, no problemo whatsoever.

So get that thing mounted in almost exactly the same place but underneath. Make sure it clears the swaybar and make sure there's nothing between it and the carb except restriction-free hose or tube... and the FPR in the engine bay.

Jon

 

I don't know which FPR you have, but I've got the Holley 1-4psi one, and the hole on the bottom is where the fuel comes *in* from the pump, and the two outlets on either side are where fuel comes out and goes to the carb. You only need one so you can cap the other one. That is, IF you have a similar FPR, you probably do if you have a Holley.

Jon

 

I have the mallory FPR that racing beat recommended on their website, ill take a picture of it later today.

I have another idea, could the restriction be the nipple fittings I had to put onto the fuel pump to get the hoses to connect to the pump? Could the opening on those be too small and be creating the restriction? Ill try to take a picture of that as well without getting fuel all over the place.

 

They'd have to be *really* small to affect the pump, but it's definitely possible.

But is there any restriction in the lines between the fuel pump and the FPR or Carb? That stock plastic valve-like thingie on the underside of the bin MUST be bypassed, so please verify whether you've done that or not.

Jon

 

Are you talking about the plastic bowl like piece that was attached to the original fuel pumps support bracket? If so, then no, it is still attached.

 

Ok then, following both of your guys advice I moved the fuel pump to the underside of that bin after removing that fuel cutoff interial switch. I had to undo a fuel line attached to the bin there but I will be able to attach it somewhere else easily. I got the pump all wired up, and the hoses connected and was about to get the FPR put in until my roommates truck blew an air bag and he needed some help replacing it. So by the time I got back to working on my car it was too dark continue. I also bought bigger fittings to allow more flow through my pump just in case that was part of the over heating problem. Before I attached this FPR I have some questions about how exactly this is supposed to be attached. I made this quick diagram in paint (sorry about how sloppy it is, I am using a touch pad on this laptop at work) to show how I believe it is supposed to go. Also, does anyone know the stock PSI settins for a mallory FPR? How much oil is supposed to be coming up through the oil pump into the carb? It seems to be pumping it at regular intervals rather quickly. After I get this FPR installed it should only be a matter of adjusting the carbs float levels and the FPR's PSI setting. One last thing, the FPR has a vacumn/boost adjust port on it, it says it does not need to be connected but would it be beneficial to have it on there? If so, where should I attach it to on the intake?

 

If your regulator is a "return style" regulator, then yes your diagram is correct.

If it isn't a return-style, you just cap off the second port that you have going back to your tank in the diagram (that's how my Holley is setup)

Jon

 

My regulator has a bypass on the bottom, and 4 inlets around the midsection. On top it has the adjustment screw and a jam nut. It seems like a pretty serious little regulator. I attached two nipple fittings to the sides and plugged the other two and another nipple/barb fitting onto the bypass on the bottom. Thanks again for the pump mounting suggestion, I havent had a chance to lower it down to check the clearance with the panhard bar but I am hoping it clears on the first try.

 

Sounds like the Mallory 4309, and that is a bypass fpr. If I can get my widebody in the shop today, I'll take some pics of how I mounted the Holly pump and the 4309.

 

Panhard bar?

I've really got to learn more about this... I still know so little.

I assume your panard bar setup is custom, can you share any info?

Jon

 

The lower portion of the fuel pump has two screws that hold it on. If you tighten them too much, the gerotor will bind. Try backing them off. This is what the technicians told me when I had a similar problem, and it solved it.

BTW -- I fully agree with Trochoid on the location of the pump -- inside the left frame rail will set it vertical, without any ground clearance issues. You'll probably want to trim a little off the upper front corner of the mounting bracket so it fits just right.

 

For those that actually got the Mallory up and running in the car, what did you do for wiring? It sounds like he's still using the stock wiring and that stuff seems a tad on the small side to me...and the pump must be almost vertical and as low as you can get it relative to the gas tank. FYI...

 

Vipernicus, its nothing custom, perhaps I am just mistaken, its the bar that runs from the left side of the car to the top of the axle. I was told this was a panhard bar, could just be a newbies mistake.

mar3, yes I am using the stock wiring for the time being. I am thinking of upgrading to some thicker guage wire and wiring it right to the ignition but for testing purposes the stock harness is good enough I am hoping. I will hopefully get a chance to get out to the car today and do some work/take pictures.

I believe where the pump is at on the bin should be low enough, if not I will have to trim the bracket and put it on the frame rail. The only problem I foresee is what to mount it with. The bolts it come with have a nut on the other side so I may have to purchase some self tapping screws to attach it to the rail.

Thanks again for all the information guys.

 

No a "panhard bar" setup is very much not stock.

The bar that goes from one end to the other is called the "Swaybar" or in some cases "anti-roll bar"

Jon

 

well maybe its something else then, I suppose im just retarded. Its not the swaybar though, I can see that one as well.

 

Sorry to reply dig this up, but here is where I mounted mine....works perfectly and is hardly audible from inside the car. By the way...I used the stock wiring and haven't had a problem. The bottom screws are self-tappers and the tops are nut/bolt.

 

Hi are you still running this pump? i have mounted the same pump in the same place but it is having trouble drawing fuel through (i have to prime it then its ok) also are you running a return regulator? (4309) i have the 4309 but was thinking of running a 3/8 return line to match the feed line. also do you have to remove everything from behind the bypass plug on the pump if using a FPR

sorry for all the questions!
any help apriciated
Mark

 

Mine is closer to the driveshaft then Jamies, and I will sometimes have it overheat. I think it might be close to the driveshaft which might be pulling the hot air from the exhaust to it or something. Plus it's been 110 degrees the past few days. Where's the check valve fellas? I replaced most of the rubber hose just for the pump and filter(not all the way to the gas tank.)

 

the bypass valve is on the front of the 4110 pump