1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Lung Butter/Mustard

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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #26  
Nicholas P.'s Avatar
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From: Louisiana
On my old rx7 i drilled a hole and put a small ball valve leading to a tiny bit of suction into the carb to circulate fume.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #27  
bumpstart's Avatar
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From: Perth, WA, OZ
/\.... the "ball" valve you speak of is actually a PCV valve

its a ball that runs in a cone shaped race .. vacuum seal it off.. and WOT releases the vacuum and allows it to flow
( usually from air-cleaner, through sump space, to PCV valve and then engine )

if you have anything running to the base of the carb,, then one of these must be there else you have a permanent vac leak

if you wish to avoid a PCV system ,, and still have flow through ventilation
then it involves a one way valve,, and a rocker cover filter fitted to one nipple on the filler neck
( lowest nipple is the inlet , with a one way valve arranged so it draws through rocker filter towards the sump space )

and the highest point fed to the carb side of the air cleaner
( highest outlet to engine aircleaner )


if you totally want to eliminate the mustard under the cap,, then you block one nipple .. and provide a larger one directly into the cap, and run this to the aircleaner
( or PCV )

if you have a turbo engine,, and run lots of boost .. then you want to play close attention to this final method
( larger lines,, , a rocker cover filtered, free air source ..and a vent going towards engine aircleaner from top of the lid )

not one dot of mustard in mine ,, and i run turbo and LPG
( notorious for dew point on cold startups )
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 11:27 PM
  #28  
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From: Seattle, Washington
I have a turbo engine. I routed two lines, 1st from the center iron 2nd from the oil filler neck.

What am I doing wrong. I have more lung mustard then I have ever seen before, like my entire dipstick is covered to to bottom in the stuff
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 12:09 AM
  #29  
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The way I understand it, fresh air enters the center iron, then leaves through the oil fill tube. This carries all the moisture out with it.

If you think about what is actually happening, the oil filler tube is thin sheet metal. It cools down faster than the iron in the engine. Heated air rises. When it encounters a cold surface, such as the inside of the oil filler "neck", it condenses water and drips back down into the pan. An easy way to stop this on a turbo is to drill a hole through the cap and let nature take its course, as others have said.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #30  
Siraniko's Avatar
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
The way I understand it, fresh air enters the center iron, then leaves through the oil fill tube. This carries all the moisture out with it.

If you think about what is actually happening, the oil filler tube is thin sheet metal. It cools down faster than the iron in the engine. Heated air rises. When it encounters a cold surface, such as the inside of the oil filler "neck", it condenses water and drips back down into the pan. An easy way to stop this on a turbo is to drill a hole through the cap and let nature take its course, as others have said.
Drill and install 90degree fitting, connect a hose straight to a catch tank to make it eco friendly lol
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 01:35 PM
  #31  
wankel=awesome's Avatar
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From: Greenfield, Ohio
the oem purge valve works too. if you didnt throw it away...
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