I have read about 100 pages on lung butter/mustard and I have a couple of questions.

The vacuum from the oil fill tube on my car (85 GSL) just did not seem to be working sufficiently to alleviate the problem and I did not not have time to play with it. So I removed the rats nest (I wanted to try this anyway) and plumbed the vacuum lines I needed. I capped off all the nipples (both sides of the carb) except the front 2 on the intake spacer (driver side). I used the front most nipple for the vacuum advance with a T to leading and trailing advance diaphrams on the distributor. The second nipple from the front I plumbed to the nipple on the oil filler tube. The nipple on the iron is plumbed to the charcoal canister. The car is running fine (no worse anyway). Here are my questions.

1) Is there any reason I should not use the front 2 nipples for vacuum the way I have them plumbed?

2) What is the purpose of the nipple on the iron that is plumbed to the charcoal canister? Is it to vent fumes out through the canister or is it to provide fresh air into the oil system?
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get use to it, this forum turns a simple fix into a big issue. just drill a hole on the oil cap and install a 90* fitting.

 

^ and leave it open? or run it to a vac port?

 

leave it open along with the ports on the tube and center plate.

 

What! No vacuum advance and no PCV valve with vacuum on that oil cap, what
are you thinking

For a Cali guy you sure do run a durty car

Just bustin' on you Wacky.

Mike, theres lots of ways to do it but the key is to let the warm. moist air out of the
engine. Wacky's way works just as good as others.

 

i just did mine yrs ago according to one of the now old threads explaining how to use a pcv valve. eliminated my problem right away. i can get pix if needed. and i have no charcoal canister.

 

to eliminate all the vaccum lines running on top of the engine and to have a stock'ish" look. i ran a pcv valve between the oil filler nipple and the metal vacuum line for the charcoal canister. then on the other end i "t-d" it into the brake vacuum near the manifold. this of course means i have no rat's nest either.

 

please post the pics

 

Mike, removing the rat's nest is awfully radical of you. Have you lost your mind?

Anyway here's how I did it to the White One a couple years ago. It was so pretty it almost made up for the lost gas mileage and pollution:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa9uyh_P-EE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-kKEB4NvJI

 

sorry it's took so long. this one should be clear enough to see how it was done.

 

thanks for the pic rxtasy3

 

rxtasy3 what did you source your T off to?

 

it's the intake vac source to the brake booster. the rb holley doesn't have any vac source aside from the port vac on the metering plate. so i T'd into the booster source for the pcv valve.

 

To close the loop on the questions I raised in the beggining of this thread, not all of the vacuum nipples on the Nikki and the spacer are good for vacuum advance and venting water vapor. It turns out that the engineers at Mazda picked the right ones, go figure.

For you Nikki guys that remove your rats nest:

The second nipple from the front of the spacer is best for vacuum advance. The first one starts advancing the timing too early.

The third nipple from the front of the spacer is best for venting the water vapor from the oil system. I tried a couple of others. They either messed up the mixture or just did not address the lung butter. This one works best.

After I traced down all the vacuum lines the way Yamamoto Sans engineers set them up in the fist place, these are the ones intend for these purposes. And they work best.

I hope this helps someone.

 

Has the added advantage of automatically alerting you if you leave your oil cap off... as your brakes will get a lot harder to use...

 

^ hahahah

 

i wouldn't know bout that since i'm not in the habit of leaving the oil cap off.

 

"The second nipple from the front of the spacer is best for vacuum advance. The first one starts advancing the timing too early.

The third nipple from the front of the spacer is best for venting the water vapor from the oil system. I tried a couple of others. They either messed up the mixture or just did not address the lung butter. This one works best."

Mike sure does know his nipples.

 

life is too complicated for some people lol

 

is your vacuum advance on your dizzy hooked up? I'm in the process of installing a holley 465 adapted to my stock intake manifold, and I think I'm going to copy your PCV setup and such. Thanks for the pic!

 

Thanks for the info on here. Helped me out! .

 

Thread revival! I would advise against plumbing PCV through the brake booster. The fumes from the oil case could seep up into the brake booster and damage it. Even with the car off, no vacuum from the engine, the fumes will seep up into the hoses and coat the inside of the booster/ check valve in mustard and eat seals. Then youll be without brakes!

You can either get used to a small amount of the mustard by plumbing into the air filter on one nipple and using a small breather on the other, OR you could run one of the nipples straight to a vacuum source on the manifold and adjust the idle mixture to compensate for a small vac leak which will be nearly undetectable to the engine. Either way you'll need a breather on the other nipple. Never cap it off.

 

The solution Hayes Rotary gave me back in the day: run without an oil cap. LOL

 

Even better... Put a tiny exhaust fan on the oil filler neck.

 

Do what I do; don't worry about it. I figure as long as you're performing regular oil changes, you shouldn't have to worry about it too much.



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