84 GSL-SE noobie owner. Want to try to charge my system. I got a can of 134a+ and just want to make sure tha the novel that I attach it to is the one that has the hoses going to the firewall. How come there is nothing in the haynes repair manual about A/C?

 

Has your car been converted to 134A yet? Otherwise you won't be able to charge
until you add the special 134A nozzles and drain out the old R12 stuff.

A lot of repair manuals don't cover AC, they consider it too risky for shadetree types to mess
with. My Bentley BMW manual is the same way and its 2 inches thick

 

I got a bunch of nozzles this morning. One of them should fit. Is that the right nozzle? The one that goes to the firewall?

 

If you are charging it from a completely drained system you will need a vacuum pump to remove
all the moisture from inside the lines. Most people don't have them, since they run about $300
for an OK one.

I was planning on redoing the AC on my other car and I was told this

 

Hmmmmmmm well since this is not a must have thing, I will just take it somewhere to a an A/C shop and let them do it.

 

A/C stuff isn't hard to do really. If you have any r-12 left in the system though DO NOT PUT 134a in there. That is a good way to destroy stuff.

You can sometimes rent the vac pumps from autozone for a $50 deposit. You can also get the gauges there. The problem is all these retrofit kits with their click on connections will not fit on the compressor as they are at an angle and rather close to the bracket. What I did was unscrew the connections that were on the gauges and they will then screw onto the fittings on the compressor just fine. You will loose a bit of pressure when you disconnect, but just do it fast and you will be ok.

Check out this thread where I talked about I-12. It is cheeper then 134a and cools much better in our older systems. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/review-i-12-refrigerant-849574/

 

and still know one has answered his question.....which side is the low? the one closest to the fender or cloest to the distrb cap?

 

First of all - don't try this unless you KNOW what you are doing - you may cause more harm than good. If it had R12, keep R12 unless you do a proper conversion (at least drain oil, change O rings, new dryer, etc).

Going from memory there is an S (suction) and D (Discharge)... S is inlet (Sanden compressor). Should see about 30 or so PSI on S when running and 200-350 on D with R134, lower with R12 - again from memory.

But don't go by my memory, get gauges on there!
And you don't want to be using mineral oil (stock oil) with R134. PAG or Ester is recommended and system needs to be properly cleaned out - not necessarily a DIY first time job. So I am not sure I am helping you.


PS - EPA fines are quite large for venting - another reason for going to a professional

Scott