looking for a write up....
09-10-04, 05:44 PM
#1
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looking for a write up....
hey all
well the 13b-se swap is getting there, and i still have a wiring problem, i was wondering if anyone has done a write-up for a 12a- to -se 13b, mainly the problem is trying to find ignition swap over, apparently from what i hear is that the 12a is on the driver side and the 13b is on the passanger side, everything else is hooked up except for that hopefully, any help is appricated cause i want this to get running already
<l><l>
well the 13b-se swap is getting there, and i still have a wiring problem, i was wondering if anyone has done a write-up for a 12a- to -se 13b, mainly the problem is trying to find ignition swap over, apparently from what i hear is that the 12a is on the driver side and the 13b is on the passanger side, everything else is hooked up except for that hopefully, any help is appricated cause i want this to get running already
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09-10-04, 07:37 PM
#2
ignition problem..everything should be the same such as distributor, etc etc. the only difference is that you will need to notch front mount bar. And even if you swap your entire cross member to GSL-SE, you will still need to notch it. PM me if you need more info in the swap and please be specific.
09-10-04, 11:33 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
You do not have to "notch" the mount bracket. Evidently some have done so without problems, but there is an alternative. Because there is already a slot in the bar, a "notch" in the end would weaken the attachment points, and place the bolt at or very close to the end. On the other hand, if you simply extend the bracket by 20mm and drill new holes (or slots), it will not lose any strength. If you retain the original slot, you can then use the bracket for either a 12A or 13B engine. In this photo, the bracket was extended 20mm by welding additional steel stock to the ends. A new hole was drilled 20mm behind the slot, which is approximately where the original bracket ended. The original slot is visible in the picture and this bracket can be used interchangeably for either a 12A or 13B engine. As you can see the lower corner is ground off to clear the oil pan. Grinding is only needed on the spark plug side of the bracket; the other side has sufficient clearance. One could add additional reinforcement with another layer of steel, but it is probably unnecessary.
09-11-04, 01:40 AM
#4
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ok, i dont know how this got off into this random tangent, but my main problem is that the wiring is different between the 12a and 13b (duh i know) i have everything basically in and hooked up (see sig for mods), but there is no spark goin to the combustion chamber, i (after some looking around and word of mouth) think i have found the problem. The ignition wiring is on the drivers side for the 12a and is moved to the passanger side with the new wiring harness for the 13b, i am looking for a writeup from someone who did a 12a to 13b swap (stock -se, not fc or fd engine) so i can figure out how to figure out this wiring problem, because it is not letting spark get into the compustion chamber, hopefully after that i should be done and get this baby back on the road. sorry for the confusion, i should have said wiring to the ignition
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09-11-04, 11:05 PM
#6
Originally Posted by cosmicbang
You do not have to "notch" the mount bracket. Evidently some have done so without problems, but there is an alternative. Because there is already a slot in the bar, a "notch" in the end would weaken the attachment points, and place the bolt at or very close to the end. On the other hand, if you simply extend the bracket by 20mm and drill new holes (or slots), it will not lose any strength. If you retain the original slot, you can then use the bracket for either a 12A or 13B engine. In this photo, the bracket was extended 20mm by welding additional steel stock to the ends. A new hole was drilled 20mm behind the slot, which is approximately where the original bracket ended. The original slot is visible in the picture and this bracket can be used interchangeably for either a 12A or 13B engine. As you can see the lower corner is ground off to clear the oil pan. Grinding is only needed on the spark plug side of the bracket; the other side has sufficient clearance. One could add additional reinforcement with another layer of steel, but it is probably unnecessary.
09-11-04, 11:25 PM
#7
Wake up guys,he's not talking about notching, hes referring to the wiring!!!!!! The wiring for
both the 12a and 13b ignition are on the same side which is the driiverside, the coils mount in the same spot which is near the battery, there is no difference. rx7doctor
both the 12a and 13b ignition are on the same side which is the driiverside, the coils mount in the same spot which is near the battery, there is no difference. rx7doctor
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09-12-04, 12:30 AM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
At the original time about 20 years ago it would have been very difficult to get the RB part, especially in Europe. If you find it easier to buy, that is a viable option. It did not take much time or effort to extend the brackets, and most of them were also reinforced along the top and bottom of the slots. The mount pictured above is an early one I used in a race car and subsequently in street driven cars. A similar version survived a crash which crushed the front of the car. I would be curious to see a "notched" mount.
As to the ignition issue, can you be more specific as to which connections are in question? The spark really should work the same.
As to the ignition issue, can you be more specific as to which connections are in question? The spark really should work the same.
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