r0taryluv

I have a few questions on locking the dizzy on a turbo setup. I have searched and didnt come to find an answer. For one, why are some locking the dizzy in full advance rather than locking it at Zero timing? Also I have yet to lock my dizzy due to the fact I am not quite sure how to go about it. So could someone please explain in some detail how to go about locking the dizzy, and why I wouldnt like to lock it at dead center timing? I am boosting an -SE with the stock ECU untill I add additional injectors with the Haltech F5 (Which will be soon after getting her running)


Thanx

CarlRx7

disconnet the vacum hoses off the pots on the dizzy. then take the cap and rotor out and then pull the springs out.

this will make it goto full advance when you start up the engine. then just get out your timing light and set it to around 10 degrees and your good to go.

there are a couple people that are selling locked dizzy's on the fourm. they add a little bead of weld to hold the weights in place.

carl.

Rx7carl

Actually to get the springs out , you need to remove the top plate to expose the weights and springs. The reluctor and the vac pots also need to come off to get the plate out. The reason to lock it full advance is to insure that it cant go anymore advanced should your tackwelds break. That would be catastrophic, especially on a boosted engine.

lovintha7

CarlRX7, is that 10 degrees leading?

r0taryluv

OK, now this top plate that is being described. Is that the aluminum dust plate that sites right under the rotor? Once I have that removed there are two screws that sit in a slot which allows the two small coil packs to move for the vacuum advance. Do I need to remove that to get to the springs? Do you by any chance have a photo of these springs? This is crucial and I just want to make sure that it is done right. I guess I am just blinded to this part. I have gotton everything else going except for this....lol So laymans terms would be great.

Thanx guyz

REVHED

Yes. You need to remove the vacuum advance pots and the plate that holds the pickup coils. Once you do that you'll see the springs.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

Rx7carl

Thanks Seanrot, archive material in this thread.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

LOL there my pictures, I like posting my handy work Besides what does archive mean is that some place I look for old material that would have answered this?

will also have another for sale soon. Ill just post it on the bay

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

. dp

r0taryluv

OK... I am not grasping the idea on locking the dizzy in full advance. It seems the peepz that have locked theirs in full advance tend to spend more time trying to figure out timing. Also by locking in full advance you have to set the dizzy teeth one tooth back, doesnt this set timing back to zero where it would be if you locked the the dizzy at zero timing to begin with? Could someone go into a little detail on this?

REVHED

Your question doesn't really make sense. The reason you lock it with the centrifugal weights in the fully advanced position is so if the welds break the timing won't advance and damage the engine. It really has nothing to do with where you set the timing after this is done.

FB II

so in theory..... you wouldnt really need to weld the weights at all right? once the car is started it will automatically shoot to full advance. come to think of it, could this also make it easier to start with the retarded timing during cranking? i dunno, just shooting out ideas.

REVHED

You mean remove the springs right? Yep, that would work. There's no reason why you really have to weld the weights.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

I think it should be welded. I see it this way. you can just take off the springs but that still allows the dizzy shaft to have play. Your timing could go off in the future if those weight just get a little stuck, there isnt much movement in the centrifical advance. You cant tell with the cap on if the weights went to fully advanced so you could be leaving a little to fate, thats a little to much for me. I prefer to know that my dizzy is where I locked it because I welded it there. Its just that little piece of mind that I dont have to think about anymore.

I'm pretty much sure that alot of the timing issues are because people put in the dizzy as the FSM says and just move it till it runs decent. (i did this to start with) but you really have no idea what your timing is. Maybe that tooth didnt match up just right and slipped one off on the way in. your timing can be extremely off. I think several people would really be surprised if they got a timing light and looked to see what you are really running. I was 20 degrees retarded, I couldnt get the damn thing to run for ****. exhaust manifold was glowing really bright. I bought a timing light and saw what was going on. adjusted it to 10 degrees advance and she purrs like a loud kitten now. When the wastegate opens she screams like a mountain lion.

FB II

yea you're right. peace of mind. we'll see what happens with mine here in a short bit

rotary emotions

Two questions:
1) how can I get the wheights at full advance? I mean: they can be moved free once I remove the springs, so I can't get them right. They are either to wide open (beyond the hole) or not far enough... And it's impossible (at least to me) to move them with the upper parts on???

2) how much boost can a locked dizzy handle before you need retard and not just a locked dizzy.

r0taryluv

My main question now that I understand how most of it works thanx to Seanrot is how to tack weld it and not mess up the wight distribution on the weights. Say you put more weld on one side than the other, would this through the shaft off under high RPMz? And to answer "Rotary Emotions" question.... what you do is take the springs off and then put the top back on with the slots in it, when you turn the shaft one way you will notice that the weights will go toward the inside of the slots and turning the shaft the other way will shoot the weights toward full advance.. once you see them in the outer most edge of the two slots you gently pull the top back off and tack weld them. But when tack welding my question comes into play...seeings you are dealing with weight and tacking etra metal on will through the weights out of balance. Before I tack my dizzy I want to make sure what will happen and how to go about doing this the right way.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

I dont think anyone has ever gone that far into thought of it before. For the most part as long as the look pretty even I wouldnt worry about it. They are supported by the slots that you have them in and the shaft of the dizzy is supported above and below the weights. The first one I made is in the car now, those are the pictures of it in the begining of this thread. Its not pretty but it was my first try and new to the welder. It has been in my car for about six monthes now and I have on occasion hit the rev buzzer. Todate there hasnt been any problems.

r0taryluv

Ok got the dizzy locked in full advance. Now time to put it in, now that the dizzy is locked in full advance this is no longer TDC. So how do I drop her down into the motor and where to align it on the front pully. If I remember right from Sean that it is 20 degrees between the two markings on the front pully. I am only going to boost 5 psi untill I get extra injectors for the added boost, so how far retard should I set my timing?

*included a pic of my dizzy lock.

CarlRx7

5psi = lock at 15
10psi lock at 10
15psi lock at 5???

thats figuring a 1 degree retard per pound of boost from stock timing level.

carl.

perfect_circle

i dont mean to briing up an old thread, but its better than starting a new one, any ways, these questions werent answered, so i was wondering if any one knew the answers.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

1. have the top on, grab the gear on the bottom and turn it till the weights go out. carefully remove the top and weld. my trick to this is to use a dremel with a cutting disk and grind down the top of the peg that the weight swings on. grinding it make a little rough area on top that stops the weights from moving around so much and gives a nice flat easy to weld surface.

2. With the two forms of advance on the dizzy, mechanical and vacuum. You actually are retarding the timing by locking it. I believe that on a stock dizzy that the mech and vac together advance the timing 20 degree. So , you set your timing at 0 then drive or rev your engine it changes the timing. After locking the dizzy it is set at your desired timing spot and wont change. In essence you have retarded 5 degrees at 5psi, 10 degrees at 10psi using the numbers that CarlRx7 posted above.

5psi = lock at 15 ---- 5 degrees retarded
10psi = lock at 10 ----10 degrees retarded
15psi = lock at 5 -----15 degrees retarded

TurboIIGuy

finally I see something usefull to my application