1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Lets talk spring rates and shocks.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-16-08, 06:26 PM
  #1  
I has an emblem

Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
-xlr8planet-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Argentina
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Lets talk spring rates and shocks.

Hi again guys

Think street car interior, track ***** handling

I dont care about ride quality. I care about handling

Suspension tuning is kind of a dark science to me, so all input is welcome.

On my civic, Im running 450 springs up front and 350 on the back. Custom shocks. The car is not bouncy at all, and takes corners like theres no tomorrow.

On the 7 I was planning on running 550 up front and 450 in the back. The car is a bit heavier than stock, cause I will run an FD intake, a few extra braces, lots of sound deadening, MX-3 sunroof.

The springs will be on a coilover setup. Kinda like RE-SPEED but home made.

I dont care how it might perform on the street, just how it will at the track.

Just in case you are wondering... YES, I WANNA BEAT SOME BMWs


thanks in advice guys
Old 02-16-08, 07:39 PM
  #2  
Say What?

 
pinoyremix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Oak Harbor,WA and Santa Maria, CA
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i think it would be best to talk to ...the respeed guy....prolly would go with their springs for the coilovers...
Old 02-17-08, 12:43 AM
  #3  
CPS Motorsport

iTrader: (1)
 
justint5387's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 1,358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Buy the G-Force book.
Old 02-17-08, 08:00 AM
  #4  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Your springs rates will be limited by a shock able to control them. "450 springs up front and 350 on the back" - will be way to stiff for the shocks available to you that fit the stock strut housing.

I would suggest 350# max in the front with Koni Reds or Tokico 5 ways. If you cut up your strut housings for a koni or bilstien race insert you can go higher.

I would suggest 175# for the rear for the same shock reasons. A good starting point for rear is half the front, and then plus 25# or 50#. 200# is going to be your limit on rear shocks.

-billy
Old 02-17-08, 09:40 PM
  #5  
I has an emblem

Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
-xlr8planet-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Argentina
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Thanks for the input Billy

I do have softer springs handy.

My shocks are always provided by a place that builds racecars. They do custom shocks and a pretty good work.

I got the springs based on this guy ideas and experience:

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/
Old 02-18-08, 12:29 AM
  #6  
Rotary Freak

 
RotaryRevn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,399
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bwaits
Your springs rates will be limited by a shock able to control them. "450 springs up front and 350 on the back" - will be way to stiff for the shocks available to you that fit the stock strut housing.

I would suggest 350# max in the front with Koni Reds or Tokico 5 ways. If you cut up your strut housings for a koni or bilstien race insert you can go higher.

I would suggest 175# for the rear for the same shock reasons. A good starting point for rear is half the front, and then plus 25# or 50#. 200# is going to be your limit on rear shocks.

-billy
Billy, can you explain benefits to cutting the strut housings? Is this to lower the car more dramatically and maintain sufficient travel in the strut?

I have purchased your adjustable rear spring perch's/springs 175 lbs. I was thinking of getting 300 lb springs for the front.

I am getting ready to order my shocks. I'm thinking about Koni red's for the back and front but not sure the best way to lower the front. Can you explain the benefits to your weld on coil over kit vs the drop in coil over kit? Or possibly shortening the strut housing to use a shorter shock, if so, a shock from which vehicle?

thanks
John
Old 02-18-08, 12:36 AM
  #7  
Lives on the Forum

 
Kentetsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids Michigan
Posts: 11,359
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
I bought the weld on version. It lets you lower the car more than the "street" version, which doesn't require any welding. If you don't race the car, not sure if it would be worth the race version unless you really wan't to scrape bottom while cruising. But the street version will still give you any spring choice you could want.

I also have the rear adjustables. I'm running them with Bilsteins and they're great. Illuminas would give you adjustability though.
Old 02-18-08, 12:49 AM
  #8  
Rotary Freak

 
RotaryRevn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,399
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
I bought the weld on version. It lets you lower the car more than the "street" version, which doesn't require any welding. If you don't race the car, not sure if it would be worth the race version unless you really wan't to scrape bottom while cruising. But the street version will still give you any spring choice you could want.

I also have the rear adjustables. I'm running them with Bilsteins and they're great. Illuminas would give you adjustability though.
Thanks for the info. Are the Bilsteins made for the first gen? Are you also running bilsteins in the front? My car won't be on the track but maybe a couple times a year. Just a weekend cruiser for the most part.

Do you know how much you can lower the re-speed street kit? Race kit?

thanks
Old 02-18-08, 04:41 AM
  #9  
Lives on the Forum

 
Kentetsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Grand Rapids Michigan
Posts: 11,359
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
I have no idea what the Bilsteins are, I bought them used in a package deal. I have Illuminas on the front of the car and love them (they will be staying when I install the coilovers).

Billy can answer your questions about the height difference between the two models. All I can do is guess...
Old 02-18-08, 07:42 AM
  #10  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by -xlr8planet-

My shocks are always provided by a place that builds racecars. They do custom shocks and a pretty good work.

I got the springs based on this guy ideas and experience:
Howard's post is more about an FD. Great reading and great info but hard to transfer his numbers to a SA or FB.

If your place can supply front inserts and valve them for the heavier spring rates is an option for you.

Bottom line is any currently available shock sold for the FB is not capable of handling that high of springs rate.


Originally Posted by RotaryRevn
Billy, can you explain benefits to cutting the strut housings?
You can cut the lenght down to fit a shorter insert. You can cut the tube off and replace with a different diameter tube to fit a fatter insert. Then you would need to find a suitable insert. I can supply the bilstien race inserts used by most IT and Prod first gens. They are re-valuable to what ever is needed. Not cheap though.

Unless this is an all out race car I would not suggest the expense.

Originally Posted by RotaryRevn
Do you know how much you can lower the re-speed street kit? Race kit?
Street kit is limited to 7" long x 250# max springs. Anything higher will not let you lower the car much at all.
Race kit is used with 8" springs as heavy as you want to go. Since you weld the perch where you want it lowering is only limited to where you weld it.



-billy
Old 02-18-08, 07:54 AM
  #11  
I has an emblem

Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
-xlr8planet-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Argentina
Posts: 1,786
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Thanks again for your input Billy.

This place manufactures shocks. You pretty much walk in and ask what you want.

They will do it as long as the money is right
Old 02-18-08, 11:51 AM
  #12  
Rotary Freak

 
RotaryRevn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,399
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bwaits
Howard's post is more about an FD. Great reading and great info but hard to transfer his numbers to a SA or FB.

If your place can supply front inserts and valve them for the heavier spring rates is an option for you.

Bottom line is any currently available shock sold for the FB is not capable of handling that high of springs rate.




You can cut the lenght down to fit a shorter insert. You can cut the tube off and replace with a different diameter tube to fit a fatter insert. Then you would need to find a suitable insert. I can supply the bilstien race inserts used by most IT and Prod first gens. They are re-valuable to what ever is needed. Not cheap though.

Unless this is an all out race car I would not suggest the expense.



Street kit is limited to 7" long x 250# max springs. Anything higher will not let you lower the car much at all.
Race kit is used with 8" springs as heavy as you want to go. Since you weld the perch where you want it lowering is only limited to where you weld it.



-billy
Thanks Billy, do you know if the street kit is capable of lowering the car 2"? I guess I won't really know how low I need until I get my wheels on but I think 2" would be good. It will be a weekend cruiser and will only see the track a couple times a year.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SakeBomb Garage
SakeBomb Garage
9
05-11-20 10:04 AM
SakeBomb Garage
Vendor Classifieds
5
08-09-18 05:54 PM
vxturboxv
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
2
09-16-15 04:16 PM



Quick Reply: Lets talk spring rates and shocks.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:21 PM.