1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

installing my intake and carb

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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 11:57 AM
  #51  
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Well if the starter is acting up and you changed all the grounds and checked the terminals and battery voltage; then I guess it is a starter problem. I know it's a rebuilt block but have you checked the compression? Are the plugs wet when you check? Turn the key on and look into the carb. Can you see gas dripping down? YOu shouldn't. Sometimes it takes alittle while to get a newly rebuilt engine going. Hope it all works out.

Last edited by RXnos1200; Oct 15, 2006 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #52  
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NO laks plugs still look new but have been switching back and forth between NGK and Denso. The starter is on and working great. Still havnt got it started thinking about rebuilding the carb but really dont have the knowledge. The compression is acualty seems to be better then expeted. I dont know the real numbers but should be gettting compression checked this week if I dont get tit running.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #53  
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Well maybe you need to help build up the compression in your motor with some oil like they suggested to you in an earlier post. Open up the throttle and shoot some oil down the barrel of your carb. Don't pump the gas pedal. Just try firing it up. I would set the idle screw up alittle bit so that it can run at a higher rpm. Maybe advance the distributor some to help it out.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:16 PM
  #54  
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You could try pull starting it with another car. Key on, 2nd or 3rd gear, and keep your foot off the clutch. Sometimes it takes a few times of sputtering and dying, but eventually it'll run. I've had to do it several times with 7's that have sat for some time, and they start fine after the initial pull start. Pour about 2 caps full of Mystery oil, or something comperable, down the carb throat first.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:21 PM
  #55  
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Yea i am using marvels mystery oil to try to get it to start. I adjusted the timing and also adjusted teh throttle cable. I have been thinking about tring to pop the clucth but dono with it being a new motor and I am the only 1 at he shop 80% of the time. So just keep in mind i am tring to do all this by myself Not much help from friends or any thing. Thanks I am going to let it sit a little and watch some football and go back at it later. Its just so damn close to starting.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #56  
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I know your pain. Keep at it. Let us know.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:27 PM
  #57  
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I wouldn't dump the clutch with a new motor either. If you can turn the motor by hand, you should be fine with a pull start. The idea is to leave the clutch engaged while pulling it, in effect forcing it to run. Don't try that alone either though, and if you do, please post pics. lol
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #58  
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Ok got it running for about 2 min. then it died and NOTHING. No lights no tring to restart. Checked the grounds. Everything still looks good I did find 1 fuse blown and replaced it but still nothing. I am gonna let It cool down a little before i do anything else. Did backfire alot. Did smoke as I thought it would. No leaks found in the 2 min. it was running but it looks like the intake gasket maybe leaking? Checked the Dizzy to make sure it was lined up right and every thing looks ok there. Been switching from the 3 almost new plugs but the denso's keep on coming out looking just as goo as they did when i put them in. The front plugs do apper to be a little more wet than the rear? Ok so hear is some more information and hope this help some help me get this car running. Thanks agian every1.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 04:53 PM
  #59  
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Ok really important question. Should I take my car some where and let them mess with it? Its gonna cost $25 to have it towed and $19 for a no start check? Even if i dont this would they be able to get it started? they worked on my 80 and did ok work cost a little more than it whould have been on a pistion engine. I just really wanna get this up and running and am getting tired of fulling with it? Or I could take to mazda that would cost a but load tohave it towed and a nother but load to have it worked on.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #60  
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No lights? Battery dead? Intake gasket leaking would make the car abit hard to start.
You got it to run for 2 minutes; were you able to rev the motor up? Backfire; carb problems or timing. There must be somebody other than a dealer that works on rotaries out there. Well I hope you work things out.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:45 PM
  #61  
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If they really know what they're doing, and you're tired of the hassle, go for it. But first, check the fusable links. Also, how old is the gas you have in it?
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #62  
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yea there's a local shop. Worked on my 80 when i was having problems with it and they did an ok job. No the battery is not dead! I checked the timing you line it up with the yellow line and the mark on the dizzy shaft right? I was able to rev teh motor but i never got it over 3500 rpm's. It ran at 1500 rpm's. Yes no light no dash lights no nothing. Not really sure if the intake is leaking or not. I think what I was seeing was I forgot to put the exhuast to cat gasket. How do you check the fusable links? and the gas is new when i had the motor out for rebuild i drained and cleaned the tanks and put on a new pump and filter.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #63  
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I was looking for a pic, but no luck. The fusible links are fust a little (prolly 2 inch) wire. On the inner left fender, under the hood, is a aprox. 1 1/2 x 2 inch brown block. It's got 3 little wire loops on one side. I think main, headlamp, and retractor? Sounds like the main is faulty.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #64  
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I know what the fuseable links are but how do you tell if there bad?
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:03 PM
  #65  
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From: so cal
just use your ohm meter and make sure you get a tone. or a volt meter
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #66  
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OK how about i just replace them? LOL i was reading a tread about replacing them with a fuse type.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #67  
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From: so cal
you can do that too. i don't know what the fuse amperage would be equal to with the fusible links. need to find out that info.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:12 PM
  #68  
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heres the tread i was talking about.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...fuseable+links
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #69  
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For starters, just swap a couple of them around and turn the key on. If you get lights, you know what the "dead" problem is.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:20 PM
  #70  
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That was a nice write up for the fusible links. I would just try swapping some of the fusible links like bstrange99 suggests. And I would concentrate more on getting the engine to run. good luck
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #71  
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Yea plus i still got the ones off my 80 so i might try swaping those around. But i still think i am gonna use the fuse type soon.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 08:49 PM
  #72  
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Taking your 7 to the dealer wil be a waste of time and money, even if they offer to work on it. You need to get some help in the shop. The only way we finally got John's started was with him cranking, and me squirting oil. I would use at least 30w oil instead of MMO, I used 40w on John's, iirc.

How are you cleaning your plugs each time? While they may look clean, but if there is any fuel or oil film on them, they will not spark from the tang to the elctrode, bypassing it instead. If you have access to a bead/sandblaster, use it.

Turn you fpr down as far as it will go if you're using the 4.5-9 psi one. If the shop is heated, pull the choke out halfway, not by the ****, but by the position on the carb. If it keeps flooding, you may need to check the float setting. When you get to that point, I can post a pic of how to measure it, unless you have the Mikuni Manual.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 09:25 PM
  #73  
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Ok first thing in the morning i am gonna add a few more grounds and up grade teh fuseable links. Then see if I can get the lights or anything to come on. Is there any where you would say to ground it ? I was thinking about maybe tring to do 1 on teh passenger side but with the exhust it might get to hot? Ok I ll switck to the 15W40 whitch have left after doing an oil change. I dont have a Mikuni manual nore do I know much about carb in general. I was using a new clean wire brush which i had to go out and buy bc all the 1 i had where nasty. Like i said before keep in mind 80% of the time i am tring this by myself.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 10:47 PM
  #74  
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There should be a ground from the firewall to the top of the block, towards the passenger side. Originally, the exhaust had a ground strap from the muffler to the body, very few I have worked on still do.

You will need more than a wire brush to clean plugs, use brake cleaner and blow dry with compressed air. Make sure they are clean down inside the plug too. If you don't have compressed air, burn the brake cleaner off and see if that works better.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 12:06 PM
  #75  
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Well looks like I aint gonna get anything done today. Thanks to the rain. I use a wire bruseh with sterer fluid and FIRE. Then blow it with compressed air. I didn't have any grounds on teh passenger side of this or my 80? Could you take a pick of where i should ground it? Since my engine was painted should I sand off some of the paint and ground to to 1 of those bolts that went to the Rats nest?
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