Starter may test good for the brief time they run it on the tester, but faults will show up during long cranking periods. Let it cool down, pull the plugs and clean them again. I don't know how many times I had John's plugs out and sanblasted them.

 

Ok I Amdone For The Night It Came So Close To Starting And Staying Running. Ok Is It Ok To Swich Back And Forth Between Ngk And Denso Plugs? Denso Is All Any One Local Had. Thanks I May Just Go Head And Replace The Starter. Almost Everything Else Is New So Why Not?

 

Just a quick though.... Do you have the vacume ports capped on the carb itself? Sometimes it's the simple things. Will get a pic here in a minute.

 

Yea I Think I Got The All Not For Sure. If You Could Post A Good Close Pic Are Maybe Many Pics Would Be Very Very Greatful. Well More Greatful Than I Am Now. Trochoid Next Time I Need A Engine Rebuilt I Might Just Have To Give You A Call.

 

aussiesmg posted a link to a thread with Mikini pics, in this thread or your other one, I know I posted several pics in there. The only vacuum post that may need capped is the lone one on the top. The underneath 2 by the AP are for coolant and the other 2 towards the passenger side are for the mop lines.

It will probably come down to everytime you try to start it and it doesn't, you will need to pull the plugs and clean them. If you don't have a sandlaster, a wire wheel ill help and buy a can or 2 of brake cleaner, then blow the plugs dry.

Thanks for the offer on the rebuild. i don't know how many miles you have on your new one, but a fresh build with new apex seals will have lower compression until all the seals are seated in. This makes them harder to start and they can easily flood.

Just another quick though on vacuum leaks. John caught this one and I never would have though of it. What's the condition of the 4 o-rings on the plastic spacers. I just came back from buying new ones for mine.

 

O Rings? I Dont Have Spacers? Should I Have Most Of The Pics Ive Seen Didnt Have Spacers But I Did See A Couple Of Them Did Have Spacers. Are Spacers A Must? If So Where Do I Get Them? I Should Be Able To Post Pics This Weekend As My Gf Is Home From Collage And I Am Sure She Has Her Camera. Thanks I Wanna Try And Get As Many Ideas Before I Go Out Tomorrow So I Just Aint Waisting My Time Tring To Firure Out What To Do Next. Thanks Nick And My Motor Only Has 25 Miles On It But It Looks Like I Might Be Getting Another Good Body To Rebuild.

 

The carb spacers act as a heat/cold tranfer block. You should at least have a gasket ther, if not, go buy a sheet of it and make your own.

Btw, please turn the caps off, make your posts hard to read for these old eyes. lol

I don't know if wolfcreekracing.com sells the spacers or not, but they do sell a copy of the only Mikuni Manual I have ever seen.

 

Yea i got a gasket I used thermostat gasket not sure what car they came off but there the same 1's i used when i rebuilt my dellorto. Yeo sorry for the cap the key was stuck took it out to the the shop to blow it out. So teh spacers aren't a must? Also i am usint a 1 peice intake does that make a difference? Would the car start if I for got hook up the line for the brake booster? I aint 100% sure if i did or not.

 

Also, what is your mix set at. I believe that for initial setup, they are supposed to be at 4 1/2 turns from all the way in. Correct me if I'm off on that number Tro. They are the two screws located at the bottom of the pic attached right next to the spacers. If you are flooding really easy, they might be set incorrectly. If my memory serves me right, we had to remove and clean the spark plugs 6 times. They are a bear to start once flooded. The other pic is of the vacume line that needs plugged. Sorry about the quality, the camera doesn't work well in the dark.

 

Yes, you need the brake booster line hooked up, that is a huge vacuum leak. Both John and I run the 1 piece intake mani, I like them. I would find the spacers, they will help keep the carb from freezing in cold weather and vapor locking in the heat.

I think I started with 3-1/2 turns on the mix screws. Be very careful when screwing them in to seat, several members have broken the tips of the needles by seating them with too much force.

 

You should definately have the brake booster already hooked up. It should connect to your intake. This would be a huge vacume leak if not connected. I am also running a 1 piece, as well as Trochoid. Should actually make detecting vacume leaks easier than a 2 piece design.



Edit: damn you, you beat me too it, LOL

 

Just for ***** and giggles Nick, do you know what your jets are? Main fuel, main air and pilot?

John, I need to look at my cheat sheet, but I think you should have a 57.5 pilot jet for a stock 12A. Your's is bigger iirc. Nice birdy btw.

 

ok went out side the booster is hooked up but i never cut the hose to fit so there is like 3 feet of hose. LOL I believe i set them at 4 or 5 I ll go back and start at 3 1/2. That vaccume line is pluged. does any 1 know if i could use the spacers for the ida? My throttle cable is a little different. Choke is hooked up the same.

 

No i have no idea. But i bought it from someone off here and he said it was for a 12A? Is there a way for me to tell?

 

Here are the jet sizes on mine

pilot 62.5
air 240
fuel 200
pump jets 90
choke 760

If the pilot is supposed to be lower, what would be the end effect of keeping the larger one?

 

You will need to pull then out and look. In the center of the carb is a cover with a single screw, remove that to expose the jet block and pilots. The jet block you will need to take out, (the bigger 2 of the 4), as the main fuel jet is on the bottom of that, main air is on the top.

Mine came with with a 190 main air, the one on the top of the jet block, a 200 main fuel and a 52.5 pilot. I was wrong on the pilot before, that's # is for an SE setup. That's probably why we couldn't get the idle down on Jon's as he's running a 60 something pilot.

Haha, this time you beat me. lol

 

ok ill look tomorrow

 

Ok looks like mine is the same.
pilot 62.5
air 240
fuel 200

Dono about the pump and choke.

 

OK getting new starter so i got to wait on it to get here.

 

Ok got some goodies from the parts store! Good to have friends working at a parts store. Got a new Alt. to replace the 1 that's about a year old. New battery once agian to replace something that is less than a yer old. Finely a rebuilt starter. Total on all these parts $99.96. I have to return a old alt. and battery and starter for cores. I love it so there isn't anything not new on the engine. Hope to get it all on and installed tomorrow. Hope i can get theis bad boy up and running I ve meen missing my 7.

 

Nice score!!! I love friends. LOL

 

Does your starter at least click or try to crank the engine at all? Or is there nothing (noise)when you try starting it?

 

My starter was only working when cold. After a few times tring to start my car i would have to let it sit and try it agian. A rebuilt lifetime warrenty starter cost my $70.

 

Can you try rotating your engine by hand? Pull out the plugs and see if you can rotate your engine 360. That's pretty strange how your starter is acting up.

 

yea my motor is rebuilt with only 25 miles.