yea so im leaking oil,i cant get the oil pan gasket in town here aside from dealer witch i belive would be spendy,so ive looked at raceingbeat's site and there 38.00 for my 85 gsl-se, Do you guys think i should buy from them of look else where?

 

this might not be what you want to hear but nowadays all cars come with a bead of silicone and no gasket. I reccomend you try the same, if you used the right kind it will never leak.

 

it looks like thats what the last person did before i ouned the car witch ive ouned the car for 9 years and it didnt leak up untell now so i guess that would be much cheeper i guess....also witch kind of silicone do you recomend i use?

 

that's what the factory did too, they use silicon.

 

mazda uses a grey silicone originally. very good and long lasting stuff. with a replacement gasket you will still be using silicone to ensure a good seal. i'd pull the pan, scrape and clean both mating surfaces and use some permatex rtv grey.

 

Correct. Pull the pan, scrape, clean with solvent/brake parts cleaner, run a bead around the pan then smear it as wide as the pan mating surface flange around all the bolt holes so its nice and even all around, then reinstall and torque correctly. Permatex black RTV is what I use personally, or Permatex makes stuff called "The Right Stuff" which is great also and I use it often.

~T.J.

 

the mazda part number is 8527-77-739 for a tube, they also have it in a caulking gun i don't know that number though

 

A lot of Engine Rebuilders and Mechanics I know scream bloody murder at that belief. You should either use a Gasket, or a Sealer, not both.

 

the FSM says to use both

 

I went with the FSM. Used both gasket and sealer and no leaks.

I got mine from Advanced Auto Parts. I just checked for an -SE, but they don't have them. Weird.

They have them for 12A's for $12.

Just checked AutoZone and they don't either. Interesting. Same with NAPA.

Atkins has them for $35.
MazdaTrix has them for $40.03

 

That's surprising, goes against most of everything I've been told. But hey as long as it works?

 

That is the factory procedure if the engine originally came with a oil pan gasket from the factory. If it did not then you just use silicone and make your bead without using a gasket.

 

works great and its per the FSM so i roll with it. i do not use silicone with the t-stat gasket as it was never installed with silicone from the factory.

 

If you want to do it right heres the stuff.
The right stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm

 

Not to flame, but the FSM says to do it and every engine builder typically does - they clean both surfaces - apply a bead to both surfaces, and still use an OEM gasket. This is the best way to do it and it allows a good deal of flexability to salvage the pan w/o having to replace it. Because - after many years of owners/mechanics not torquing the pan bolts to spec, the pan gets warped. Many people think - oh, its leaking - lets tighten the hell outta the bolts to make it stop. This is counter intuitative and can cause more leaks......

 

i like to just put a little teeny bit of silicon on the t stat gasket, i hate scraping that one

 

International makes this gray silicone that is so brutally evil that you basically ruin the oil pan removing it. It will literally never leak, and will hold an oil pan with 20 quarts of oil on the engine without bolts once its dry.
If they had not made such a stupid design for the 444 (7.3 Ford) oil pan dipstick then it would be the perfect oil pan. I use it on my engine on parts I dont want to ever leak, I am sure you can get it just about any big truck shop in town for the price of regular RTV.
Mercedes-Benz black silicone is also great for stuff you do want to remove, but its pricey.

 

Might be good to use durring an engine rebuild atleast in areas that are notorious for leaks like around the dowel rod.

 

One more tip, get some ready rod or longer bolts. Cut the heads off the bolts (or cut the ready rod) and get matching nuts. Use 4 or 6 of these in place of the factory bolts to save the bother of lining things up and having the silicon slip and slide as you put the bolts in. Just apply the silicone, slide it up the studs, hold in place and put your 4 nuts on and then do the rest.

Important, let it sit at least over night for the silicone to set before putting oil in the engine.

 

Best advice so far!....if you have the patience.

 

thx,i will do this,i will be useing (Permatex Blue Rtv silicone gasket maker)item#80022

 

also, if you take the bolts out of the front motor mount. you can raise the motor a little.
Just to give you that extra room. Its a tite fit.