so when my 7 died i had no spark and plenty of fuel. now i got spark and no fuel....well actually my fuel pump doesnt turn on. so i was wondering if there are any other fuses on a 80 other than whats under the dash on the drivers side.


if not its time for new fuel pump? i turn the key and dont hear the fuel pump turn on.


so i was wondering could i go mallory or should i just go with the stock on from bda?


i do plan on upgrading the carb here over the winter.

 

First, check the wiring by taking off the driver's rear wheel and make sure the electrical connections haven't corroded or a wire isnt broken. If you plan on upgrading the carb, get a new pump and FPR.

 

wires are all intact. so its either a fuse somewhere or the fuel pump itself


and would the mallory work with the stock nikki?

 

no need to bump the starter, but yes, test the voltage you get. the SA's fuel pumps turn on in the "on" position. You looking at the right fuse under the dash? It is the one labeled "engine" on the driver's side closest to the firewall.

 

all fuses under there are good.

 

Did you remove the fuse and replace it with a known good one? I have seen this over and over where you look at it and it looks good.

 

next time you buy fuses, buy the pack that comes with the little white fuse puller and integrated green LED. It has little metal terminals on it you can touch to the fuses whilst they're still in your fusebox and test for continuity. Saves having to pull them and inspect - and helps find a fault when the fuses burn at a tricky part hard to spot.

 

1.Have a friend turn the key to the "On" position.
2.Check the connector at the pump with a Volt meter for voltage.
3.Give the pump power from an external battery to see if the pump is good.

If both are good then you have a problem in the line.

 

i have replaced the fuse, pump worked about a month ago when the car ran. havent checked it with a volt meter because of this.

 

I thought I posted this earlier, but it looks like maybe it got edited.

Anyway, if you recently changed the ignitors you should be sure the rear ignitor is properly connected. On the 84/85 GSLs, and I suppose on the earlier models, the fuel pump is turned off if the rear ignitor is faulty or not properly connected. Another test is to hot wire the fuel pump, I use a four foot jumper leading from the rear hatch light through the drivers side stroage compartment.

A few weekends ago I didn't quite get the rear ignitor plugged in right and it shut off the gas, much like you are describing.

Good luck!
Ray

 

will check that. ignitors should be good because the person who is pretty well respected here said they were tested.

 

Yes but even if they tested good out of the car or after being installed, the rear one might not be plugged in quite right, that's what caused my briefly confusing loss of the fuel pump a few weeks ago.

Also if you jump the pump from a hot lead you can get a quick answer to if it's working or not. If the pump is good, the car will start right up with the jump.

 

Ignitors do not apply to the 79-83 models for the fuel pump circuit.

 

There are only 2 variables to this equation.

1. Is voltage getting to the pump.
2. Is the pump accepting volatage and operating properly.

If the pump is not getting voltage then there is a wiring fault. It could be a bad ground, fuse, or grounded power wire.

If the pump is getting voltage but not operating, then the pump is obviously bad.