i am experiencing ignition cut out. cant pinpoint exact rpm when it happens but it is somewhere between 3k and 5k. my question is when does the secondary ignition start? and when is it that the secondaries on the carb open up? this is keeping me from driving herrrrr.. ive been trying to figure out this for some time now. its a hard stat but it does start. it doesnt like to idle without my help of some throttle. when i rev it out it cuts out somewhere between 3k and 5k. it was freshly rebuilt by re motorsports up in michigan. the coils tested fine and i have spark on both the primary and secondary. could the spark just not be strong enough under compression. i would really like to have her running this summer. shes been down for 2 years now. if anyone can help me i would greatly appreciate it.

 

Check your fuel filter; this could simply be fuel starvation due to a clogged filter.

Trailing ignition is constant-on for FB's, on some SA builds it shuts down under acceleration for a timed period above 11oorpm to about 3000rpm. Loss of trailing ignition should never be enough to stall a car that's working properly.

Are you sure you don't have leading and trailing hookups swapped? Can happen at the pickups, at the coils primary or secondary, as well as on the dizzy or plug wires.

 

I'm having issues with me leading issues sounds about the same. Getting power to the leading coils when it acts up?

 

Im gettin spark out of both coils my fuel filters are both clean. I have clear sightglass in them. I have brand new ngk br8eq14 platinum plugs in it. Its streetported 12a. Brand new fuel pump as well. Could bad wires cause my issues? Or possibly a low fuel level??

 

Could it also be caused by distributor being 180 out

 

what kind of fuel pump?

have you tried readjusting the carburetor since the new engine went in?

 

of course the distributor could be off. put a timing light on it.

 

The cap could cause this also. you have to remember that electricity is the same as everything else, it will follow the path of least resistance, if there is a point at witch it is easier for it to flow elsewhere it will. I would look at the cap for any sign of tracing also take a look at the wires inspect them for tracing also, it will look like a small grey dot on the wire and will not rub off easily. hope this helps.

 

IF the distributor is off 180 it would run like crap all the time not at a certain RPM because its a 2 rotor system and each rotor is off set from the other if you turn distributor off 180 deg. it might run but it will stumble the whole time no matter what RPM and may come out of it at higher RPMs

 

You need the magic triad to get combustion; gas, spark and timing. Sounds like you think you
have spark and that you think your have fuel because your nikki (assuming) has fuel at the 1/2
point in the sight glass.

Can you see fuel squirt from the nikki when the pedal is pressed? Could be an AP pump issue
on the carb. Also you said its streetported, did you rejet the carb, because that will be needed.

You may want to also verify your fuel pump to make sures its delivering the volume and
pressure the nikki wants. This is critical for a nikki as the fuel pressure has to be <= 3 psi
for most to run well. For that streetport your gonna need a better than stock fuel pump
for higher rpm/load driving or it will lean out. The stocker just barely keeps up with a stock
ported engine.

Next up would be timing. Reset the timing by hand and restab the dizzy to make sure its all
lined up correctly. Also make sure you have a new rotor, cap and wires.

 

When re motorsports built the motor they asked if i was keeping the original carb and i said yes so they said they would make sure it would be fine on the stock carb. I need to get my car to my place simce i have recently moved and its in storage. Once i get it home i will try swapping dizzy caps and rotors as well as put new plug wires and new plugs. Any suggestion on what plugs and wores to run? I jave ngk br8eq14 in it now.