I think I got a carb problem. Help!!?
#26
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I did spray for leaks early in the game, found one that I probably created earlier looking for leaks, but fixing it made no difference on the low end stall problem. Also this evening I tried readjusting the idle mixture but it was set right to begin with and turning it out a turn had no effect on the low end stumble.
So it looks like it's time for a re build, but I'm with you, check all the simple things first.
So it looks like it's time for a re build, but I'm with you, check all the simple things first.
i'm actually out playing with my weber right now
#32
Yes, one of the progression (low speed circuit) was clogged up. Also I discovered that the primary and secondary slow air bleeds on one side of the carb were switched on my last rebuild.
Here lies the virtues of rebuilding Nikki's.
Thanks to Sgt. Fox for posting his carb manual, best book I've read this year:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ma...01979-1985.pdf
Here lies the virtues of rebuilding Nikki's.
Thanks to Sgt. Fox for posting his carb manual, best book I've read this year:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/ma...01979-1985.pdf
#41
Dave, right now I'm stymied and unfortunately not driving the Silver One, but I don't mind commuting in the MP5 these last few days, it has AC which is nice in these Georgia summer dog days.
I've rebuilt four or five Nikki's and every one of them has fired right up on installation, needing just the usual fine tuning to run right.
But not this one, which I was especially careful rebuilding - I actually cross referenced every single jet and air bleed to both the carb manual and with my three or four spare Nikki bodies to be sure everything was in order (after discovering that I had inadvertently switched two of the air bleeds on the last rebuild of this carb, without all that much consequence, I drove it about 50,000 miles without noticing an obvious performance problem).
Instead this rebuild is running so poorly I can't even adjust the mixture or idle speed because without constant pumping on the accelerator it quickly dies (even after it's warmed up). Seems to be the same old problem, only worse - as soon as the throttle plates on the primaries open up it just dies.
But now I know it's not the accelerator pump (working fine), the primary venturi ports (both are squirting) or the progression circuits (I cleaned them, then cleaned them some more, then cleaned them some more, followed by tons of compressed air). In fact I'm having a hard time believing there is anything wrong with the carb and other than those switched air bleeds (which alone were worth the rebuild) my problem is not even the carb.
(Yes, I checked the spark at all four plugs, again, lot's of steady spark)
But it sure does seem to be starving for fuel when you hit the accelerator. And if you coax it up to 3-4000 rpms it will keep running, so once a good venturi vacuum is established it at least will suck enough gas to run (in the driveway).
Which as far as I can tell leaves the fuel pump and rat's nest as my next targets. I'm in the process of testing the fuel pump, although I'm going to have to use my thumb gauge to check the pressure since I don't have a real gauge (probably as accurate as most store bought ones anyway, what's three lbs, about enough to squirt 4 feet?).
Then the volume test (where is that fuel pump cut relay anyway, I need to find it to jump the fuel pump). I hope to get these things done this evening, if the afternoon thunderstorms will let up for just one day. Lately every time I pop the hood the sky opens up and down comes the rain.
Nikki's, you gotta love 'em.
I've rebuilt four or five Nikki's and every one of them has fired right up on installation, needing just the usual fine tuning to run right.
But not this one, which I was especially careful rebuilding - I actually cross referenced every single jet and air bleed to both the carb manual and with my three or four spare Nikki bodies to be sure everything was in order (after discovering that I had inadvertently switched two of the air bleeds on the last rebuild of this carb, without all that much consequence, I drove it about 50,000 miles without noticing an obvious performance problem).
Instead this rebuild is running so poorly I can't even adjust the mixture or idle speed because without constant pumping on the accelerator it quickly dies (even after it's warmed up). Seems to be the same old problem, only worse - as soon as the throttle plates on the primaries open up it just dies.
But now I know it's not the accelerator pump (working fine), the primary venturi ports (both are squirting) or the progression circuits (I cleaned them, then cleaned them some more, then cleaned them some more, followed by tons of compressed air). In fact I'm having a hard time believing there is anything wrong with the carb and other than those switched air bleeds (which alone were worth the rebuild) my problem is not even the carb.
(Yes, I checked the spark at all four plugs, again, lot's of steady spark)
But it sure does seem to be starving for fuel when you hit the accelerator. And if you coax it up to 3-4000 rpms it will keep running, so once a good venturi vacuum is established it at least will suck enough gas to run (in the driveway).
Which as far as I can tell leaves the fuel pump and rat's nest as my next targets. I'm in the process of testing the fuel pump, although I'm going to have to use my thumb gauge to check the pressure since I don't have a real gauge (probably as accurate as most store bought ones anyway, what's three lbs, about enough to squirt 4 feet?).
Then the volume test (where is that fuel pump cut relay anyway, I need to find it to jump the fuel pump). I hope to get these things done this evening, if the afternoon thunderstorms will let up for just one day. Lately every time I pop the hood the sky opens up and down comes the rain.
Nikki's, you gotta love 'em.
#44
Waffles - hmmm good
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Ray come to the dark side of aftermarket carbs and no rats nest. To the land of
electric fans and easy to source american made ignition parts. The promise of
reliability and cheap repairs.
Its all there Ray if you just follow me ...
electric fans and easy to source american made ignition parts. The promise of
reliability and cheap repairs.
Its all there Ray if you just follow me ...
#45
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Instead this rebuild is running so poorly I can't even adjust the mixture or idle speed because without constant pumping on the accelerator it quickly dies (even after it's warmed up). Seems to be the same old problem, only worse - as soon as the throttle plates on the primaries open up it just dies.
Then the volume test (where is that fuel pump cut relay anyway, I need to find it to jump the fuel pump). I hope to get these things done this evening, if the afternoon thunderstorms will let up for just one day. Lately every time I pop the hood the sky opens up and down comes the rain.
Nikki's, you gotta love 'em.
big vacuum leak = carb not working.
also note that the ACV leak i had was totally INTERNAL. spraying the engine down with brake cleaner did nothing.
i think the fuel volume test is perfectly fine, the wife gave me a juice container that just so happens to be marked every 100cc (and in non metric too) its 2L too, so you could run 2 tests if you wanted. very handy. of course i didn't mention what i'm using it for, she actually used it for juice or something weird....
good luck!
i still have never rebuilt a carb and actually had it fix a running problem, carb problems are always something else it seems. the exception is like the SU's on my tr3, where the throttle shaft bushings wear out, or old nikki's sometimes just leak from the gaskets
#46
Tim your words sound like they are coming from the Devil Himself. Are you sure that is you speaking or are you being channeled?
J9 thanks, a big bad vacuum leak sure does sound like the solution to this one, no Nikki could go this bad. I don't have the air pump or AVC valve but there are still some contraptions down in that area (antiafterburner valves and other stuff I don't really understand) that need to be looked at more carefully, along with the fuel pump test (I like the big ole nasty vacuum leak explanation better, however).
I'll check it out this evening, looks like no rain for a change.
Thanks guys (even you Tim)!
J9 thanks, a big bad vacuum leak sure does sound like the solution to this one, no Nikki could go this bad. I don't have the air pump or AVC valve but there are still some contraptions down in that area (antiafterburner valves and other stuff I don't really understand) that need to be looked at more carefully, along with the fuel pump test (I like the big ole nasty vacuum leak explanation better, however).
I'll check it out this evening, looks like no rain for a change.
Thanks guys (even you Tim)!
#47
Lives on the Forum
It sounds like you've been very thorough Ray, but is there any chance that the fuel jets got swapped around? Sometimes it can be very hard to tell the difference between starving and flooding...
#48
I've been very thorough Kent. That's the problem, the more I do, the more mistakes I make.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's something as simple as you say. Iin fact I'm sure it is and I'm going to look like an idiot when I finally figure it out.
But I don't think it's the jets. I checked those three times, even went back and pulled the filler locks off to check the last time.
But just to be sure:
The ones with the big holes go in the secondaries.
The ones with the little tiny holes go in the primaries.
Right?
NEWS FLASH:
Houston, we have a problem.
Routine review of the fuel bowl windows indicates a newly evolved low fuel condition.
Follow up tests on the fuel delivery line indicate a No Go.
Resort to Filter/Pump checklist.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's something as simple as you say. Iin fact I'm sure it is and I'm going to look like an idiot when I finally figure it out.
But I don't think it's the jets. I checked those three times, even went back and pulled the filler locks off to check the last time.
But just to be sure:
The ones with the big holes go in the secondaries.
The ones with the little tiny holes go in the primaries.
Right?
NEWS FLASH:
Houston, we have a problem.
Routine review of the fuel bowl windows indicates a newly evolved low fuel condition.
Follow up tests on the fuel delivery line indicate a No Go.
Resort to Filter/Pump checklist.
#50
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ive learned on the weber (ive never touched the float level in anything else), that the float level makes more difference than the jets!