thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

nice nikki she's one of the girls i like both clothed and nude! but her clothes have to be nice

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

I looked around in the front one briefly, but I couldn't really see much. I got frustrated with the car and cleaned up early today, but tomorrow I'll get back at it and definitely check those they might just be important to be filled

I thought that about the smoke too since the FC's do it after sitting for a while. The plugs and wires are actually really good. Do the FB's use 2 different plugs though, like the FC's? I've got 4 NGK BUR3Q- 14 R or something like that on there. I was looking at the coils though, and the one closer to the front of the car looks like it hasn't fired in years. So that's another thing to add to the list, along with the wire that goes from it to the dizzy (which looks fairly new, as well as the rotary button). I think someone's troubleshooted with this car before me, so hopefully I can find what they missed

I might just take you up on that if Kevin isn't too desperate. If he needs it more though, he can have it since I'm only driving one car at a time

I thought on the way home that you should have driven the FC! Haha. And I just remembered- what were you nodding about when I went to leave?

Those of the carb on the car are going to come in handy as I check the hoses and everything. I printed off a couple of vacuum diagrams but I need to find more detailed ones.

And I figured out why my choke isn't working right- the wire was broken right behind the handle. And the car didn't have the hatch release stock, there's a little plastic plug there.

So here's my list so far:
- Front Coil
- Wire from front coil to Dizzy
- Tube going from 2nd afterburn valve to the blue air breather/ filter cover
- Battery
- Choke cable
- Detailed vacuum diagram
- Wing-nut holding blue breather to carb

That's just to get it to run good, as far as I know

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I was nodding because that FC sure makes a lot of noise. I was also thinking you should have taken the White One out for the spin (and I could try to follow in your FC).

You've got the right plugs in there, Denso also makes a good plug for FBs that is usually less expensive.

I've got all the things you need except the choke cable (these are semiprecious because of the magnetic lock on them) and the breather wing nut. But we might be able to fix your choke cable or combine it with one of my broken ones and get something to work. However if you get the car running even half decently you won't need you choke for now, you can just give it a couple extra pumps of gas. It is handy to have in the winter though.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Aw, don't tell me you're agreeing with the Pendergrass police

That sounds good to me. I was thinking earlier- you could probably use a little bit of help with the house projects you've got going on, and I'm jobless at the moment, so with all the help you're giving me I'd love to give you a hand the next time I'm up there. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and I've helped out with all kinds of house-fixing. Sound like good barter?

Speaking of a job, I think I found one today. If anyone's familiar with Dawsonville, GA, you know Bill Elliot's from here. The City Hall over there's filled with all kinds of neat racing/ automotive junk, and I went through it 3 times today. Anyways there's a restraunt inside in it that's re-opening and I talked to the owner and I'm guranteed a job if they open, but he's totally redoing the place so it could be 1-4 weeks before I start. Good thing is, they're not open Tuesdays so the OGTA meets won't be a problem to get to!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Yur on Brett, but now post a bunch of photos of your progress for the others (and me) to see, we want to know what you've got there.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Good good I hope you don't mind, but I used a picture of yours to ask some questions. I'm not too good with the vacuum diagrams on the computer. I'm buying a Haynes manual today.

Progress pictures when I get back!

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Alright, I lied about the progress pictures I think I just might know what the problem with the car is though. The coils next to the battery aren't too dandy. The front one is all grimed up and barely, barely sparks, and the rear one isn't even sparking at all. So I think if I replace those 2 coils and get these last few vacuum leaks sealed up, the car just might start by itself.

Now I'm off to fix the ignition problem on the FC- I swapped ignition switches and it doesn't change a thing. I've got to give a black/yellow wire on the switch + current from the battery for the car to start and run... Fun fun.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

FC's fixed, with a perfectly working ignition switch and tilt steering. Now I've just got to get on this noisy hub issue. I thought about trying the direct fire ignition thing on the FB, but I read you've got to cut up your coil pack and I don't have any spares. Anyways, tomorrow after work I'll get more progress on it.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

You don't need to cut up the FC coil pack, it can be installed without mutilation and could be reinstalled in an FC (I'll show you how later). But I wouldn't recommend moving your 2G coil pack back and forth between the two cars, that would be too much trouble.

I would just get the stock ignition system working, even if you then add the 2GDFI afterward you will still use one of the stock 1G coils and if you keep the second stock 1G coil you can always reconnect your stock system should you have any question about the 2GDFI. Start shopping for a spare 2G leading coil pack, they are usually available for around $20-25.

I have a spare pair of stock 1G coils, if that's all it is these are easy to replace. I'm working at home today, will be home all day.

Questions left to right on your photo:

1) yes that tube connects to the breather

2) see your Hayne's manual pages 254-263 for diagrams showing correct connections for the emissions plumbing.

3) that mushroom shaped thing is the purge valve

4) the brass nipple sticking out is one of the two nipples that connect to the oil metering pump (OMP) lines

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The rear coil is normally leading (unless someone messed with the wiring), so you need that one working. If you are not getting spark, it is more often a problem with the ignitor than the coil. Also, check the connections at the ignitors (black boxes on distributor). Sometimes the tabs get bent and while the plug looks to be connected, it isn't actually making contact. The leading ignitor is the one facing the radiator. That is the one to really check since it seems as if you don't have leading spark.

The coils are easy enough to swap. I'm sure Ray or Crit have a few spares that you could use for testing purposes.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

If you can't get with Ray for some reason, I've got a free pair of stock FB coils for you as well. I work 3 miles down the road from my house, so I can meet you if you need to pick them up during the day.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

That woud be awesome. I'm working for the guy like 5 miles from your house, so I guess I'll call you whenever I get off (around 4 or 5 tomorrow) and see if you're avaliable. You're much closer than Ray, and I think that another set of coils just might make this thing run.

Then if the car runs and drives decently, I could just go see Ray for the other stuff

I'll get pictures soon once I get finished with the FC's brakes

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I've got a HUGE proposal to read for work, so I'll likely stay home much of the day. I'll run into the office to drop off my corrections, but my day's pretty open. Let me know when you can swing by.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Thanks again for letting me pick up these today. I hope you get your car issues worked out

I dropped these new coils in tonight, and the car's doing the same thing! I checked and the front one is still sparking, but the rear one isn't doing a damn thing. I switched the wires and the rear coil works, so I know it's good. Where should I go now? I'm going to fix a fusable link tomorrow that could possibly be the culprit, but I don't really know for sure. Whats really on my mind is ZOOMFEST!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Igniters.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Brett must not have read my post about that.

Check the connections at the distributor 1st (make sure the the tabs are not bent down on connectors). Since leading ignition (rear coil) is not firing, it is the little black box on the front of the distributor (facing radiator) that may need to be replaced (assuming the electrical connections are good).

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

I read it, but I got confused when you said if faces the radiator. Am I looking at the round things by the battery or the dizzy that all the plugs go on? I'm a newb all over again... What do you mean bent down connectors? Like the spinning thing under the distributor cap or in the ends of the plug wires or somewhere else? And I'm confused about the black boxes on the distributor, too. I'm sorry I'll go poke around the car and look in my haynes manual, maybe that'll explain some things to me.

Keeble

iTrader: (3)

its on the dizzy, little box on the side of it.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Yep. The distributor should have two little boxes on the side of it (outside, just below distributor cap..not inside of the distributor cap) with electrical connectors on top of each one. The one more towards the front of the distributor (facing radiator) is for leading ignition. The other (facing alternator) is trailing. By the tabs, pull one of the connectors on one of the black boxes (squeeze and pull). There are two metal tabs to electrically connect the connector/wires to the ignitor. Sometimes these tabs get bent down. Then when you plug the connector on there, it looks connected, but it isn't really (when the tabs are tweaked).

Probably the leading ignitor is toast, but best to check the electrical connection 1st (easy and free). What year is the car again? If it is '83 or older, you can simply swap the ignitors around. You will lose the tach, but the car will still run fine. If your car is 84/85, you can't do that since the car uses the trailing signal to tell the fuel pump to run (no trailing spark = no fuel).

Good luck.

Kent

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

The fuel pump is re-wired and just plugs into the interior fuse box, so it always runs when it's plugged in (not my doing, the p/o's). But I looked around and found the ignitors and they were both plugged in with no bent tabs. So I got creative and switched the wiring to them, and the car started right up! The tach isn't reading, but probably because of those being switches I assume.

So now I just need another ignitor... Question- with only the leading ignitor firing, are the other 2 plugs firing at all or are they all firing?

I made an attempt at a video, too... Don't judge me

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I've got one. You can get it by 3 today, or it'll be at Zoomfest waiting for you.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

With swapping them around, only the leading plugs are firing. The leading are all that really matter. Trailing is mostly for pollution control.

If you are going to drive it like this, you want to swap the boxes themselves (with the wiring how it was) rather than just swapping the wiring. When you just swap the wiring, you change the timing. They are easy to swap around (just 2 Phillips screws each). Before you put them back on, it is a good idea to coat the back of them with heatsink compound (RadioShack or a computer store should have it). This will help the heat to be carried away from the ignitor.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Well Brett, that's great progress, you've diagnosed your first igniter!!

However the video is crap and I'm worried you are going to catch your car and yourself on fire with that fuel pump set up.

Without the trailing ignitor your trailing plugs are not firing, however since the leading plugs provide most of the spark the engine will still run pretty well when you did Kent's igniter swap trick. (Your fuel pump is supposed to also be disabled when the trailing igniter isn't working, but it sounds like the PO fixed this with his Molotov cocktail mod).

You do have a fire extinguisher nearby, right?

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Damnit Ray, I said don't judge me Haha. The camera died, that's my excuse. And I'll get the ignitor and fuel pump straightened out soon, no worries!

Crit- I'll gladly take that off your hands at ZoomFest Or buy it if that's what you meant, whichever.

Kent- I won't be driving the car like this. I really just wanted to see it start . If Crit brings that ignitor, I'll swap it on and get the wiring back to normal. Thanks for the help with that too, btw. You first gen guys are much, much more helpful that the FC crowd. I'd get beaten for asking where something as simple as an ignitor was

Off to a friends for ZoomFest! The FC's bathed inside and out, the bad's packed, and the OGTA sign's ready.

Edit- look at all those smileys...

ray green

iTrader: (14)

OK the video came through this time Brett, it isn't crap, but man that car sure needs a lot of TLC. Sounds like a lot of satisfaction coming.

I'll go out and wash the White One off, see you tomorrow!

She sounds sweet.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...t=100_2750.flv

Do me a favor and check the oil level to make sure that oil pressure gauge is misbehaving.