i am looking to buy a 1979 RX-7 and was wondeing what i need to look at for the engines, performance and mantinence wise how do i know if the engine is ok?/also where do i need to look for rust at? the price is $1750 with little exterior rust, is that a good price?

any info on buying a 79 RX-7 would be great

i have been a 280zx guy but if this car is good then im going to be a RX-7 guy

also give me any info that a 79 RX-7 noob might not know

 

Read this to get started: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/other-what-look-when-buying-just-after-you-purchased-your-rx-7-a-601804/

 

$1750 is to much IMO...what model is it? sorry im new to rx7's...got a gsl-se and dont get to work on or look at any other rx7 pretty much.

 

Price depends..... check for excessive smoke on cold start up...................... Look in rear whell well, in front of axle for rust

 

Check for oil leaks and bin rust as well

 

compared to how much I got mine for......... $000.00 that is a whole lot!!!! Seriously, thats too much bob. lol Jew him down!!!!!

 

You young fellas are so impatient nowadays. I responded to the thread you started about an hour and a half before this second one: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=752142

What you should do is print out what RX7Doctor wrote and take it with you when you check out the car again.

And yeah, that's too much money.

 

Welcome to the RX-7 Club.

I have merged your 2 threads together. Please do not create duplicate threads on the same subject.

The link that the member provided you when you first posted this thread is more than adequate to answer your questions and there are other links in that thread with even more information regarding the topic.

We have put a lot of time and effort into these threads. :-)

Also be sure to read the following links to familiarize your self with how to get the best usage of this forum.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/rules-1st-gen-section-89820/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/how-use-forum-tutorial-series-720499/

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1st-gen-rx-7-faq-page-237777/

As far as the "Is it worth it question".
That is something that only you can answer. It depends if your really like the car and want it. :-)

IMHO- If the body is straight and there are no major rust issues, the interior is fairly clean and the engine starts and runs with out excessive smoking or other issues then it is worth it.

Remember this is a "SA" and they are going up in value and it will be harder and harder to find one in decent or restorable condition.

 

All above good advice - BUT: it really boils down to this Make-Or-Break issue: is the engine OK?

You need to spend $75-ish and get either a Mazda Dealer Shop OR a local rotary shop to do an ENGINE COMPRESSION CHECK. This requires a special Mazda Rotary Engine Compression Tester tool - a regular engine compression tester will NOT give the right info!

Its the difference between you buying a $1750 Driver or a $100 parts car
Hope it works out - looks like a nice early production coupe.
Welcome
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

thanks Fatman but that was the basics to any car buy, i wanted specific info on these older rx-7s so i could know if this car was in good shape for a 79

thanks rx-7 doctor for merging the two, i just needed and still need the info quick, older cheap cars like the one in question sell quick were im from.

also thank all others.

also, i have heard that these rotary engines need to be rebuilt around every 30,000 miles, if this is true then can i have any faith in a rotary that may not have ever been rebuilt?

 

I went 186,000 miles when I pulled my engine. It was still running well. Many SA and FB people have reported > 250,000 miles before any issues.

Late model turbos tend to last less miles before needing a rebuild.

Search on high mileage, there are a few threads on how long a 1st gen engine should last.

RXDad

 

Nonsense. I have 170k, 130k, 120k and 85k on my assortment of rotarys and only the REPU has ever been rebuilt (not during my ownership). With normal care, infrequent abuse, careful attention to the cooling system and a lubricating fuel additive they should last over 200k.

 

if i hadnt drove the car today for a test drive i wouldnt belive you about the milage but yeah, the car only has 95000 or so miles and runs better than my 280zx and its fuel injected...

now all im worried about if MPG, how many MPG does a stock 7 usually get

also what about the choke? a spring or something is bad because it pops back in when starting...

thanks u guys for helping this noob, your a little nicer than datsun drivers...

 

also are the rims worth anything? i belive they are aftermarket 13in and are covered up by stick on mazda logos but one has the original emblem that looks simular to the project MU brakes emblem...

 

sorry but i got one more, why do the places where the paint has chiped off have no rust? bare metal is exposed and it looks clean as the day it was originally painted?

i wish my datsun was like that...

 

i searched and found 20-24 mpg was about the average, sound right?

 

ive had about 15 1st gens, and they will get 20-22mpg, little more on the highway.

those wheels are aftermarket

for the engine, the ones that went 30k were the pre 1974 engines, everything after that has been really good. for care and feeding, just do what biffle says, it'll run forever.

dunno about the paint, its been repainted at some point

 

Yeah, it was prolly piainted silver origionally and when the repainted white chipped off it looks like bare metal. I would know, I painted my 7 white and it was silver........ mostly. When the white chips off it looks like bare metal. I would like to see some pics of your z car....... if ya don't mind! lol

 

i mean i didnt break out the microscope or anything but it realy looked like metal, if it is paint then some one needs to perfect that tecnique cause it would look cool

z pics, its a 81, its non-turbo, its a little dirty but its always like that...dont mind the missing front bumper and the rims do say enkei

 

Sweet! Do you kow how much it weighs, it looks like it has some weight to it! lol That might be why the 7 felt more spunky!!

 

Nice looking Z. You like white cars, eh.

 

Choke: its actually kinda "semi-auto" - manually pull out to start, should retract by itself once temp gauge hits first marker. If it doesn't stay out at ALL when first started, likely sender or sender wire (back of water pump) is broken, meaning either replace (gawd-awful expen$ive) or do what a lot of folks here do: stick something behind choke handle to hold it out till the car warms up. (dime, washer...anyone? what else?)

Mileage: I _wish_ I could get 22mpg!! maybe nicely driven on hwy Truth, these are fun cars to drive and I am heavy-footed - so I'm thinking more like 16-18mpg. This Bad Boy has a 4-barrel carb and rotaries LOVE gas, so don't buy one if want economy. That's what God invented Hondas for! ;D

Chips: mazda did some pretty decent metal coating protection at the factory, so you are likely seeing that electroplated metal (zincrometal I think they called it). Just wish they'd used more behind the rear wheels!

Rims: I've never see those and can't say they do anything for the car IMHO, but wheels are definitely in the eyes of the beholder. Love the OEM mags these RX7 were optioned with myself (my gold versions attached, standards were silver) - but there are lots here who hate 'em so, whatever turns your crank...

'luck with the car
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

#1 yeah, my 280zx 2+2 GL is the heaviest 280zx datsun ever made

#2 yeah, i do like the white look for classic imports.

#3 about the choke, there was a little black clamp in the floor that i think was used to hold out the choke
#4 why didnt other manufactuers use the zinc plating?

 

CAUSE MAZDA RULES OVER ALL THE OTHERS!!!!!!!!!! lol

 

So did you buy it? If so please post some interior pics and give us an update.