I might buy this car, but i need some help
07-30-06, 11:32 AM
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I might buy this car, but i need some help
Here are some pics of a 1985 gsl that I want to get, but I need some input on what to do.
I can get the car for 1400$, and it comes with another car thats the same year and model, exept for that its mostly a parts car, no engine, tranny is gone, all the windows are in it, and most everything else, exept some parts on the body are dented up a little bit and everything.
As for the car in the pictures, the car its self only has 100,000 miles, and the guy just put in a almost brand new 12a with only 12,000 miles on it, so over all i think that car is worth the 1400$ bucks that its going for, exept for that there is one problem, I think that it is with the carb, but tell me what you guys think.
when your driving it, you can put the pedel down half way, but if you put it on the floor, it doesn't do much,and its kinda bogging down it seems like, im kinda a newby to old mazda's, and cars mostly, so thats why im wonderin what you guys think of it.
I wish that there was a way to explain the problem better, but I don't know how, if you don't know what the problem is from my shitty explaining, then il try to describe it better.
thanks ahead of time for any help that I can get
I can get the car for 1400$, and it comes with another car thats the same year and model, exept for that its mostly a parts car, no engine, tranny is gone, all the windows are in it, and most everything else, exept some parts on the body are dented up a little bit and everything.
As for the car in the pictures, the car its self only has 100,000 miles, and the guy just put in a almost brand new 12a with only 12,000 miles on it, so over all i think that car is worth the 1400$ bucks that its going for, exept for that there is one problem, I think that it is with the carb, but tell me what you guys think.
when your driving it, you can put the pedel down half way, but if you put it on the floor, it doesn't do much,and its kinda bogging down it seems like, im kinda a newby to old mazda's, and cars mostly, so thats why im wonderin what you guys think of it.
I wish that there was a way to explain the problem better, but I don't know how, if you don't know what the problem is from my shitty explaining, then il try to describe it better.
thanks ahead of time for any help that I can get
07-30-06, 12:10 PM
#2
Welcome to the forum.
There could be a variety of things going on.
1) Could be clogged fuel filter
2).Could be fuel pump failing
3). May not be running on the leading ignition, just the trailing and have no power.
4).On the carb there is a spring and linkage for the secondary (power) barrels and has just popped over. This is a very common problem.
5). Also possibility of restricted exhaust, ie. Catalytic converter blocked.
These and other things may be contributing.
Are there any hills that you can test drive up and see if it loses alot of power?
There could be a variety of things going on.
1) Could be clogged fuel filter
2).Could be fuel pump failing
3). May not be running on the leading ignition, just the trailing and have no power.
4).On the carb there is a spring and linkage for the secondary (power) barrels and has just popped over. This is a very common problem.
5). Also possibility of restricted exhaust, ie. Catalytic converter blocked.
These and other things may be contributing.
Are there any hills that you can test drive up and see if it loses alot of power?
07-30-06, 12:40 PM
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If the only problem with the car, is the issue you reported, it is easily worth the asking price.
Doc gave a very accurate description of the most common issues to cause the type of problem you reported. You have an advantage over a lot of other newbies, in that there are a few good 1st gen mechanics in the KC and surrounding areas. If the issue is carb related, there is a guy up in St Joe that is quite good with these carbs. I'm sure he'll be along shortly, and chime in.
Doc gave a very accurate description of the most common issues to cause the type of problem you reported. You have an advantage over a lot of other newbies, in that there are a few good 1st gen mechanics in the KC and surrounding areas. If the issue is carb related, there is a guy up in St Joe that is quite good with these carbs. I'm sure he'll be along shortly, and chime in.
07-30-06, 01:37 PM
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thanks for the help guys, rx7doctor I wasn't the one the drove it, I was in the car while the owner was driving, we did go up a few hills, and he gave it WOT and I don't really know how to explain it.....it kinda boggs down....doesn't have very much power.....like.....say that we would be going.....at around....4k rpm's or so.....when you would pin the throttle......the rpm's don't really fall or anything....it just makes a sound like the engine's trying really hard or something, but not really doing much.....
I wish that I could get a video or something so i could explain the problem better
I wish that I could get a video or something so i could explain the problem better
07-30-06, 01:45 PM
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That sounds more like a restriction in the exhaust. This will cause a power loss as the RPM climbs, yet still have decent power in the lower range.
I could be wrong, but this is quite common to happen. Especially if the air pump is unhooked, or not working correctly.
I could be wrong, but this is quite common to happen. Especially if the air pump is unhooked, or not working correctly.
07-30-06, 03:43 PM
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yeah that could be the problem, i dono for sure, but its better than anything that I have thought of.
well like.....you can drive, and you know, go through all of the gears fine and everything, but only with half throttle.
so yeah, i dono if i mentioned that part or not.
well like.....you can drive, and you know, go through all of the gears fine and everything, but only with half throttle.
so yeah, i dono if i mentioned that part or not.
Last edited by thelittlefatmailman; 07-30-06 at 03:50 PM.
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07-30-06, 04:05 PM
#8
If the secondary linkage was off and you were going up any hills then the speed would drop down to around 40-50mph. And it would take awhile to reach highway speeds even on flat land. Also with the restricted cat going uphills (significant grade) it could slow down to maybe 30-45mph. On flat land though you should be able to get the car moving.
07-30-06, 04:36 PM
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Im prolly most likely gonna go and buy the car from the guy.....ither....tomarow....or some time this week.....and ill check out the problem again right away
08-01-06, 02:54 PM
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Nice find man, and im sure its not too intense of a problem thats with it, but hard enough to track down and fix. $1400 isnt too bad either, i paid $2140 for my 83, and now i look at it and sometimes i wonder what the hell i was thinking becuase now the rust is taking action more then ever before. But it had a re-done engine which now has about only 18k on it and runs like a top, has limited slip, crusie, elect. windows, etc. and all that crud. most of which works so i think i got a pretty good deal.
Take care of her and she'll run for many "almost" trouble free miles. Good luck man.
Take care of her and she'll run for many "almost" trouble free miles. Good luck man.
08-01-06, 05:03 PM
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I own an 85 w12a, and I've almost rebuilt the entire thing now, and after a complete tear down of the feul system, and replacement of every single piece, I experienced the same prob.
Turns out (i've never owned one before, or worked on one, just bought a non-running one amonth ago out of naivity) ,.... turns out, there is a link of some sort, looks like a rocker with a bar accross it, on the passenger side between the firewall and the winshield. If you depress the throttle too often under the wrong conditions, (ie:shifting at low rpms) it throws this arm off of the link. You need to pull the arm out and rest it back on it's rocker.
After that, I realized it had thrown because my feul pump was OVERpreforming. flooding the engine. Aftermarket feul pressure regulator fixed that (needs 4psi). Now it doesn't bog down when you widen the throttle open. but with the stock nikki carb that these things are equipped with, you're not going to notice a big punch unless you convert your secondary barrels to mechanical operation.
After I do this, i can let you know how big a difference it makes. The guys at the race shop that I talked to about a motor swap, recommended a weber or a holly carb for the 12a, said you get more power out of them and it's easier to adjust the mixture for preformance with them.
good luck
Turns out (i've never owned one before, or worked on one, just bought a non-running one amonth ago out of naivity) ,.... turns out, there is a link of some sort, looks like a rocker with a bar accross it, on the passenger side between the firewall and the winshield. If you depress the throttle too often under the wrong conditions, (ie:shifting at low rpms) it throws this arm off of the link. You need to pull the arm out and rest it back on it's rocker.
After that, I realized it had thrown because my feul pump was OVERpreforming. flooding the engine. Aftermarket feul pressure regulator fixed that (needs 4psi). Now it doesn't bog down when you widen the throttle open. but with the stock nikki carb that these things are equipped with, you're not going to notice a big punch unless you convert your secondary barrels to mechanical operation.
After I do this, i can let you know how big a difference it makes. The guys at the race shop that I talked to about a motor swap, recommended a weber or a holly carb for the 12a, said you get more power out of them and it's easier to adjust the mixture for preformance with them.
good luck
08-01-06, 07:59 PM
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thanks for all of the help guys, I love this forum so much
ok like....I have come to the conclusion that I really don't know how to explain the problem very well, so im gonna try to get a video tonight or tomarow some time, and then you guys can watch the video and tell me what you think.
thanks again for all of the help
ok like....I have come to the conclusion that I really don't know how to explain the problem very well, so im gonna try to get a video tonight or tomarow some time, and then you guys can watch the video and tell me what you think.
thanks again for all of the help
08-01-06, 08:14 PM
#14
O' hell, just get the car and swap the intake and carb with a Racing Beat Setup. Then change the exhaust with a good free flowing header, and ditch the cats. Now, swap the suspension with a GSL suspension. After that, you won't be happy. You will want to upgrade the ignition. You still won't be happy. So you will want to turbo the car. Then you still won't happy. You think in the back of your mind that you can out run eveyone else that pulls up beside you. Then your working two jobs to support your new habbit. Your wife leaves you. You move back in with your parents. But, you can't leave the 7 alone. ..................................... O' sorry about that. I didn't say that out loud, did I? Anyway, welcome to our world!!!!!! And good luck with the new car.
08-02-06, 11:38 PM
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lol thats pretty funny.
anyways, I can't get a video after all, because I can't find my dam camera....wich is really pissing me off because its brand new.....but anyways....I took the whole exhaust system after work today......and well...lol....i really don't know what the hell the factory was thinking when they put together this car....but like....the exhaust system goes from that little box right below the engine [ or so it looks ] to 2 small little box tipe'a things, and then the catalytic converter....its a really wierd setup...
and I was also messing around with the carb, because im trying to get the right fuel to air mix......and I think that my car was made in california, because on the top screw there's a cover over it, and it looks like I am going to have to buy some tipe of tool to be able to get it off of there so I can adjust the screw and everything.
A few qick questions...
whats that little box that hooks onto the engine, [ that I mentioned up above ]
Were can I get that qeer little tool for the carb
How does an air to fuel ratio gauge work, is it hard to install, can I do it with my exhaust system off, and last but not least, would it be a good tool to have with tuning my carb.
thanks
anyways, I can't get a video after all, because I can't find my dam camera....wich is really pissing me off because its brand new.....but anyways....I took the whole exhaust system after work today......and well...lol....i really don't know what the hell the factory was thinking when they put together this car....but like....the exhaust system goes from that little box right below the engine [ or so it looks ] to 2 small little box tipe'a things, and then the catalytic converter....its a really wierd setup...
and I was also messing around with the carb, because im trying to get the right fuel to air mix......and I think that my car was made in california, because on the top screw there's a cover over it, and it looks like I am going to have to buy some tipe of tool to be able to get it off of there so I can adjust the screw and everything.
A few qick questions...
whats that little box that hooks onto the engine, [ that I mentioned up above ]
Were can I get that qeer little tool for the carb
How does an air to fuel ratio gauge work, is it hard to install, can I do it with my exhaust system off, and last but not least, would it be a good tool to have with tuning my carb.
thanks
08-03-06, 01:45 AM
#16
If you are talking about the metal shielding that goes around the exhaust manifold and has a tube that sticks up. That feeds hot air into the carb for better warm-up. Assuming that is what you are looking at. The 2 small boxes you are describing are pre-cats.
As far as adjusting your carb, don't do it. This is how people screw up the running of their cars. Why are you wanting to touch the carb?
As far as adjusting your carb, don't do it. This is how people screw up the running of their cars. Why are you wanting to touch the carb?
08-03-06, 07:21 AM
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well because its getting wayyy to much gas....like...it sounds like the engine is drowning itself
like....it backfires alot, and down at low rpm's its like....a gargling sound, and when I rev up the engine, it seems like it takes a few seconds to rev up, and then on the way back down rpm's....its kinda....still sonuds like....i don't really know how to explain it.....but it just sounds like the engine is getting way to much fuel.
what about the whole air fuel ratio gauge thing??
like....it backfires alot, and down at low rpm's its like....a gargling sound, and when I rev up the engine, it seems like it takes a few seconds to rev up, and then on the way back down rpm's....its kinda....still sonuds like....i don't really know how to explain it.....but it just sounds like the engine is getting way to much fuel.
what about the whole air fuel ratio gauge thing??
08-03-06, 01:11 PM
#19
Before you go off and make a bad situation worse. If you believe it has too much fuel then you ned to check the float level. There are sight glasses on the carb to view where the level is at. The A/F gauge requires that you install an o'2 sensor in the exhaust system. This is done by getting an o'2 bung and having it welded in. But i think you are wasting your time.
I believe you need to try and find someone in your area(member) that is close by that is familar with carb'd cars and let them listen to it and drive it. Or find a competent rotary shop in your area.
There are multiple things that will cause backfiring or popping. The 7's have a deacceleration
system that cuts off fuel to the rear rotor at specific rpms and other components. Does it have like a really annoying honking sound coming from the carb/air cleaner area?
I believe you need to try and find someone in your area(member) that is close by that is familar with carb'd cars and let them listen to it and drive it. Or find a competent rotary shop in your area.
There are multiple things that will cause backfiring or popping. The 7's have a deacceleration
system that cuts off fuel to the rear rotor at specific rpms and other components. Does it have like a really annoying honking sound coming from the carb/air cleaner area?
08-03-06, 01:26 PM
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no, nothing like that.....just like....when you let your foot off of the gas, and it will go from 6000rpm's down to 1000rpm's....its like...a really...gargly sound....and it kinda pops a little bit...
yeah I don't think ill do the A/f gauge after all, because I don't know much about welding and all of that tipa stuff.
Im gonna try and find someone in kansas city somewere that works and these cars, and see if I can et him to just work on it or w/e......because I don't know what im doing well enough to not screw something up.
thanks again for the help nn stuff
yeah I don't think ill do the A/f gauge after all, because I don't know much about welding and all of that tipa stuff.
Im gonna try and find someone in kansas city somewere that works and these cars, and see if I can et him to just work on it or w/e......because I don't know what im doing well enough to not screw something up.
thanks again for the help nn stuff
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