kapn krunch

lookin good. im assume that the welder is a clarke or simalar then? you could get away with a 115-120volt welder as long as you dont need to do any 3/16ths or thicker stuff in a single pass. look into a hobart if you only need to use it for a flanges and manifolds etc.... they are about 200$ cheaper then a miller hobarts start at around 340$ +/-. or you can get a linclon from homedepot for around 320$ or so.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

No, it was a Century Powermate 70 Flux Core. I can't beleive people can actually sell that POS and get away with it. I bought it yesterday and sold it today on craigslist

3/16 would be max I would need to do. Do you think there would be any way I could use a Hobart for that ? We're talking a gas shielded unit right ?

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Yeah sorry I meant your FD. I may be interested in the setup if you decide to sell it. Was thinking about using something like fuel cell foam, or custom welded baffles and a bung on the bottom of the tank, but not the greatest setup by any means...

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

I have a lincon electric 110v handymig, its a flux/sheilded gas job, will do 3/16th single pass if you were good,, i always backstep just for peace of mind

I got mine from walmart of all places, homedepot should carry it also

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

What the heck is backstepping ?

I think it's time for a "Which welder are you using" thread

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

back stepping, back stiching, ive hurd it described many things

for example, weld 1/4" forward, then go 1/8" back, then 1/4" forward again, 1/8" back again, all one motion not stopping wire feed. i do it with as little wire speed as possible so the first pass the weld is still a dip, then when i pass back over it, its hopfully flush

im no pro, however someone who welds alot showed me this, and so far my exhaust's, two exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, and random body work have held up with this method, so ill continue using it

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Looks good Eric!!! Oh and BTW you go a fat *** rear end.

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I know I'm fat and all but you don't gotta make fun of my big butt

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Do you have a part number for that welder you're using ? I was only taught the <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< method but I still managed to screw that up

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&cName=Welding

looks what i have. harbor freight has $50 autoshading masks, my local shop can get the wire sheith that the wire goes though for $10 that is sized for non-flux wire, you should beable to get the same, $100 for a bottle and ur golden

i like the >><>><>><>><>> method

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Post pics of your welds and i will tell you what your doing wrong. Also what are you setting the welder at?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Well, I threw away all the metal I was playing with last night and even if I did post pictures. I have a feeling that you would just say it's the welder. It would simply leave little ***** of metal on whatever I was working with which was easily brushed off.

Have you worked with any good decently priced 120V units ?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

Is the "Wire Sheith" an upgrade ? How does that make it better ?

kapn krunch

you can do 3/16 with the hobart if you bevel the edges and make sure you get the weld puddle hot enough ive done 1/8th inch with a double pass with a hobart. the problem i have with the linclons is the dont have infinetly adjustable ***** they just click into one spot and thats all you get.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

I have used a Hobart, Lincoln, Firepower (made by Lincoln), and Miller. They all work, they all have their advantages and disadvantages. You would be absolutely amazed what you can do with a (good) 110V welder. I welded a lot of my cage with one. If all it is doing is leaving little ***** you are either going way too fast, you have the heat down too far, or you have the wire speed up too high.

kapn krunch

i can try and upload some pics of stuff ive done with a hobart and a miller or oxy exctelyne later if youd like to see what you can get out of one of the millers. im not a pro just a hobbist

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

its not an upgrade, its a consumable.

the flux wire is a .035 diameter and the non flux is .025 (you can get diff dia wire but i always use the .025) you should use the correct size tip's for the wire your using, and if you want you can also get the correct size wire sheith

maby somebody else can chimp in on the correct name, i just bring the broken one i have and get a new one. it looks a cable shieth you would use on a bicycle or something without the rubber coating

i have both a .035 and .025, obviously i cant run flux wire though the .025 shieth, and ive had trouble with the .025 wire binding in the .035 shieth, maby because of the extra room or because of the flux wire leaving flux in the shieth

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

mines infinetly variable between all the settings on the speed/temp ****, ive hurd some have to be set in specific spots, but mine isnt like that

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I rested the tip on a peice of metal at an angle. Turned the speed to half way and power to high. I pulled the trigger while slowly turning the speed **** faster until I heard the sound of bacon frying (That's how us hillbilly's do it)

Anyhow, the duty cycle was horrible. The box would turn off for 15 minutes after about 3 minutes of playing. I played and played with it and not once did it ever penetrate anything. I was playing with 1/4 steel brackets though.

What type of 11Ov welder are you using ?

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I'd like to see some pictures of what people are doing with these standard outlet machines. Preferably the cheaper ones ($300)

I'm interested in the Lincoln that Crackerheadmel is using.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

cracker huh

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

I have a Firepower right now (they were made by Lincoln at the time) and it works pretty good. I used a new Lincoln the other day and i was VERY impressed. If i was to buy a new 110v welder it would be a Lincoln.

kapn krunch

maybe they have changed in the last 2 or 3 years that was about the last time i touched a linclon. that linclon that was linked to sears site it only has a voltage **** and no wire speed or is it the other way around? it doesnt look like something id want to try and build a car with becasue of the lack of adjustment and fine tuning. i like full control over the weld feed/heat not presets from the factory. you can get a hobart handler 140 from harbour freight for aroun 380 or so. viking were you trying to weld with flux core?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

the one i have was purchased though walmart a couple of years ago, it does have the 1 **** which is a combination adjustment for both speed and voltage (but infiently variable, doesnt stick anywhere, i can be at 3.25 for example), however it has 2 selector switches also for high / low speed and high / low voltage, so i can be low heat, high speed for somthing thin for example

Viking War Hammer

iTrader: (8)

I think that's what it was.

This is what I bought yesterday and sold today