MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

I have stripped the car (including the interior) down to a rolling shell essentially... tore down, ported, and rebuilt the engine. I also am swapping a manual tranny into the car.

The only part I still need is the hard clutch line. But thats besides the point!

I'd like to get rid of the factory wiring harness (already pulled, actually), and wire up only what is essential on the car.

I've even gotten rid of the headlights. Tail lights are not essential to this car either.

Now, whats required?

1. Fuel pump
2. Starter wiring
3. Fuses
4. Choke
5. E-fan (please dont comment on this, thats not what the thread is for.)

I dont know what else. I'll add an aftermarket tach/speedo and temp sensors later.

I dont have a dash anymore, and dont want to look at the football sized clusterfuck of wires that it covered up.

WTF is this car doing with a computer anyway?! I suppose it's not a computer in todays sense... but a bunch of switches...

It's an 83 GSL... 12A (duh)

And for the record, anyone who reads this, the manual tranny bolted up to the car, no problem.

Thanks in advance guys!

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

I am doing the same thing. I am stripping my car down to make the car as light as possible and as simple as possible. Don't need all that crap for racing!

I will have a toggle switch for ignition, push buttong to start, switch for fuel pump, switch for electric fan....thats 'bout it.

I will have alternator wiring and that is about all I need.

One thing I found out this morning I still need is a push button for the fuel door unlock.

If you run a fuel cell or have a cable for the fuel door, then the switch will not be needed.

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

BTW, what kind of racing will you be doing?

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

i'd like to say just straight line drag... but right now i'd just like to get this sucker going.

its looking good though. i'm definitely learning as i go!

hadn't ever torn down an engine up until 3 weeks ago, put it back together last weekend. i have compression, so i must be doing something right! today i dropped the motor/tranny in. PROGRESS!

i chipped all of the sound deadening crap off of the car too... air chisels work wonders for this!!!

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

dude... i just left houston a couple of years ago... i graduated from PVAMU. now i'm a LT(jg) in the navy

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

Thats' cool. I live south of Houston. I drive past PVAMU when I go visit relatives.

What all have you done with the engine???

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

just a larger street port, painted it, and (still) blocking everything off... OMP, ACV on the intake manifold... thats about where im at right now. i need some new studs, a 2ng gen oil cooler/hoses, and oil filter pedestal/adapter.

i'd like to strip and rebuild the carb too... i'm not in a rush to get this done, i just got a new mazda 3

PercentSevenC

Well, you certainly don't need the choke to be there if this is a race car. You do, however, need alternator wiring.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

how bout using one of those painless wiring kits?

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

If it is a drag race car you don't really need an alternator. You can just run off the battery and recharge after the race. a couple extras will be handy. I know a rotar head in Shreveport, LA that does this. It also saves power from the engine by not having to turn an alternator. He even has an electric water pump so nothing else is turned by the engine. I guess this will all depend an what kind of racing you are doing.

rx-7ames

iTrader: (1)

Oops, double post. Damn internet.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Well that's if you don't want to spend a lot of money on gel cell (optima red top).
I use to weld tube frame chassis for a race car fab shop. They never ran alternators, and only ran starters in the automatics (yes they had auto's a lot) They could run several races on just the one battery, There's a gage telling you when it needs to be changed out. I'm not sure if they charged the battery's back up or not. But they do have a warranty, so they probably just swapped them all the time...

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

I am quite sure they charged the batteries back up. A lot of drag racers use just a battery....no alternator.

PercentSevenC

I missed the part about it being a drag car. So, no alternator either, then.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

so two yoohoo belts i guess? that'll be nice!

you guys rock. i cant believe that the carb doesnt need anything... well, i guess i cant believe it. its a machine, after all.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Stock carb needs the fuel cut solenoid wired in. The rest of the choke can be handled manually.

Carl

iTrader: (2)

7's Only in Buttonwillow, Ca apparently sells a harness for their PRO7's that has only the essential stuff for a road race car. I haven't seen an uninstalled harness, but the cars they prep look clean. Might be worth a try.

http://www.sevensonly.com/

Carl Johnk

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

my car was built into a race car, and had a custom wiring harness. here are a couple things ive learned.

1. the custom rear harness weighs a couple pounds MORE than the factory one. factory rear harness is surprisingly light, less than a pound. the custom harness used bigger wire, lots of zipties, scotchlocks, etc etc

2. the main harness isnt too bad stock, although in a race car, you can take out a bunch of stuff, its a big job, might be easier to go custom.

3. my custom harness was all one color! wire routing was funky too. i ditched it, to go with modded stocker.

i want to be able to street mine, so i want lights, and an alternator and stuff.

best thing to do is make a list of the stuff you need ie alternator, brake lights, tach... and go from there.

also keep in mind, that going from a stock wiring harness, to just brake lights and ignition might save you a whole 2 pounds, its not a big deal