Clacor

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

I need some quick help (for those who know) about the headlights retractor motor wiring.

Am in the process of rewiring the lights on a full purpose Race Car FD, because of the Time Attack rules the car needs to have all their stock lights in working condition. So as I took everything out for painting I decided to rewire the lights in his own independent circuit.

Anyway, last night I fried both retractor motors trying to find out how to wire them through a Relay & Switch , they are being rebuilt now and I would like to get some advice before I toast them again.

My car a 94 JDM FD


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The Retra 4 Wires


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I tried to understand this, but it didn´t work last night...


subirimagenes

Am not an electrician at all, so I would like to make it as simple as possible.

On the JDM Harness :
FAT BLACK WIRE Ground
FAT RED/ WHITE WIRE Constant Fused 12V ??
SLIM YELLOW WIRE 87A on Relay ???
SLIM RED WIRE 87 Accessory on Relay ???

I have a toggle switch SPST 30AMP and a 5 pin Relay ready for the wiring...

Any help is appreciated, as from this side of the world FD´s are unicorns...

Gracias..!!

Clacor

iTrader: (3)

Bumpity...

Help please...

Clacor

iTrader: (3)

No one did this before ?? Any advice is welcome...

Prôdigy2nd

iTrader: (3)

on usdm & cdn cars they used a simple 4 or 5 plug relay, on my jdm grey import the retra relay is entirely different, and instead of being in the front near the hood release, it's t ight beside the drivers right shin (rhd remember)

most people leave the factory wording in place as they don't wamt to mess with it

the wiring diagram you Have posted looks to be the USDM wiring...

I would do a search on the headlight motirs on the forum as I know a few different members Have taken them apart to better understand how they work, and tri to write something from that...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=1050851

read post 6 might help you out a bit...


J.

Clacor

iTrader: (3)

J.

Thanks a lot for the feedback... I actually found something based on your post that seems to help...


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According to the FSM there is:

One Constant 12V, probably one of the "fat" wires
One Constant Ground, probably the other "fat" wire.
And I should give 12V to one wire for Close, and 12V to the other for Open.

So basically I should have 2 Wires on 12V at the same time for Open, or 2 Wires on 12V at the same time for closing... And a constant Ground...

Am pretty sure that´s what I did before and I toasted both motors ..!!

Project88Turbo

iTrader: (22)

We're lucky the Mazda diagrams are easy to read. The VW ones I fool with are not so easy.

Here's how I'd wire it up:

FAT BLACK WIRE -> GROUND
FAT RED/WHITE -> 12V+ CONSTANT

THIN WIRES to a new relay TERMINAL 87 AND 87A

ON RELAY:

TERMINAL 86 -> GROUND
TERMINAL 85 -> INTERIOR SWITCH PROVIDING 12V+

An option would be to tie the 12v from the headlight to terminal 85 with a diode so the lights will go up with the headlights on.

Then all you have to do is flip the smal wires tothe correct orientation to make them go UP with the switch ON.

Vince

Laserhead

There’s another possible failure point, a blown blocking diode (arrow symbol in retractor motor wiring diagram). Diodes allow electrons to flow in the direction of the arrow, but blocks flow in the opposite direction. They’re hidden under the phenolic plate the “brushes” are attached to; simply push the wires through the grommet and the plate moves up. There 2 (maybe 3) diodes: one in circuit with the UP input, the 2nd one in circuit with the DOWN input, the 3rd across the brake relay coil. I’ll ry to desolder the bad one and read the part number. My guess would be 5 Amp, 30 volt


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