How's 16.579 @ 82.24 for a bone stock '85 RX-7 GS?
How's 16.579 @ 82.24 for a bone stock '85 RX-7 GS?
I was at the drag strip last night (I hate drag racing, but I was there cuz it was free and my friends were going) hehe, I was wondering how good 16.579@82.24 fares compared to some of you guys. The car is bone stock, with tires that I spent $193 for all 4 tires brand new, mounted and balanced. lol. Can you say... quality? hehe
What should a bone stock 1st gen be running? I was pretty impressed with it, I was expecting high 17s.
What should a bone stock 1st gen be running? I was pretty impressed with it, I was expecting high 17s.
Its a 12A
And I had about 30-40 pounds of crap in the trunk and storage bins which I never bothered to empty out. Spare tire was still in the car too
I was shocked at how much quicker it was than what I was expecting.
It was funny as hell, my best run was against this Firebird with a 350. He beat me by 49 thousandths of a second. Lets see.... 5.7L engine vs 1146cc engine... he should have utterly decimated me. If I would have had a better reaction time or had the junk in my car emptied out, I would have beat him. People are funny.
And I had about 30-40 pounds of crap in the trunk and storage bins which I never bothered to empty out. Spare tire was still in the car too
I was shocked at how much quicker it was than what I was expecting.It was funny as hell, my best run was against this Firebird with a 350. He beat me by 49 thousandths of a second. Lets see.... 5.7L engine vs 1146cc engine... he should have utterly decimated me. If I would have had a better reaction time or had the junk in my car emptied out, I would have beat him. People are funny.
almost 178 note this street port is not exactly stock and it has alot of work to get those numbers. and alot more to get a alot better numbers. the guy who built this motor lost a bunch of money on this deal. but i got one hell of a motor
jr
jr
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Magazine reviews give about 17-17.2 seconds for a smooth run. However they rarely go all the way to the redline, and around 16.5 seconds is what you would expect really pushing the revs. I suggest your run showed the engine was still performing well.
The magazine testers in the US typically do several runs, starting with shifting at redline, then shifting lower to find optimal points. Usually they shift at redline and post those times.
"By the beard of Zeus!"
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 867
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From: Huntsville, Alabama / Atlanta, Georgia
Originally posted by mar3
What did it say for the HP? And all members of the hateration can pass up flaming the G-Tech unless they have one and have proven it's "worthless"...
What did it say for the HP? And all members of the hateration can pass up flaming the G-Tech unless they have one and have proven it's "worthless"...
Originally posted by FuLLsMoKe
So it really works and is THAT accurate? I was considering buying one... Care to explain how it works?
So it really works and is THAT accurate? I was considering buying one... Care to explain how it works?
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Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Do a search, Fullsmoke. You'll see how divided the board is on the G-Tech.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
Originally posted by Paul Fitzwarryne
Magazine reviews give about 17-17.2 seconds for a smooth run. However they rarely go all the way to the redline, and around 16.5 seconds is what you would expect really pushing the revs. I suggest your run showed the engine was still performing well.
Magazine reviews give about 17-17.2 seconds for a smooth run. However they rarely go all the way to the redline, and around 16.5 seconds is what you would expect really pushing the revs. I suggest your run showed the engine was still performing well.
I was flogging the **** out of it, but I wanted to see what I could make it do. I was powershifting, and shifted at about 7500 in 1st, about 7000 in 2nd, and crossed the line at about 7200 in 3rd. It probobly went up to about 8K+ shifting into 2nd. I backed up the 16.5 with a 16.7... I didnt get quite as good of a launch.
if it blows up, all the more reason to tear it apart and bridgeport it, lol
Either that or swap in a 13B.
Originally posted by Sterling
Do a search, Fullsmoke. You'll see how divided the board is on the G-Tech.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
Do a search, Fullsmoke. You'll see how divided the board is on the G-Tech.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
Originally posted by Sterling
Do a search, Fullsmoke. You'll see how divided the board is on the G-Tech.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
Do a search, Fullsmoke. You'll see how divided the board is on the G-Tech.
I think it's a really, REALLY great tool, in a really "Cute", Compact package. Unfortunately, that is the weak spot...It needs to be kept absolutely dead level and straight ahead to give an accurate reading. The car is bouncing up and down with shifts, and acceleration, ect.
It gets an 85 on my scale. It would get a 99 if they made it mountable, and more programmable, and gave it a bit of memory to recall maybe ten runs. Then it would be, "The ****, yo...!". I would gladly pay the extra hundred bucks they would charge for those additional features.
As it is, it's mounted on your window like a radar dector with Velcro. The mounting hardware just does not do justice for such a cool gadget. And the problem is, every time you turn it on, you need to enter your vehicals weight...You do this by removing the unit from the mount, holding in a button, and tilting it. The numbers roll up faster the more you tilt it.
But then you go thru five minutes of getting it as straight as you can.
The good thing is unless you cheat with programming how much you wiegh, or are going down hill, you'll never get a reading that is more than real. If anything, it'll be slightly less- So you know you have at least what it says. The highest # you can ever get is when the thing is pointed absolutely dead straight and level. Otherwise, it'll just register you as being slower by whatever smidge you're off by.
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