First, as a carb cleaner I spray a quarter of a can right down the carb while I keep the engine revs up by grabbin' the throttle cable. (I know, the instructions on the can say to use a half a can, but I've found that to be unnecessary.)
The exhaust will smoke like crazy. After about a minute turn off the motor, and while it is still warm spray the carb full of foam and dump it in the intake by opening both sets of butterflies by hand. Turn the motor over by hand to crank the powerfoam into the motor.

Repeat this procedure until you have used about another quarter of a can. Now let the PF work in the motor for anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours. If you've never done it before, leave it in for about an hour or two to be sure that the carbon and gummy deposits get thoroughly softened.

Now is when I usually have a beer and gab with the neighbors, as soon the area will be completely uninhabitable...

Now start the car. It will smoke like crazy and you have to keep it running until the exhaust clears out just enough to take the car out for a drive at highway speeds for at least 30 minutes, although longer is better as you want to make sure that any dislodged carbon gets blown out the exhaust and does not redeposit itself in a worse spot, like an apex seal slot.

(I'm pretty sure that's what happened to me once, but I was able to re-Powerfoam the motor and fix it.)

The end result is a smoother-running motor with better throttle response. I suspect that carbon deposits on the rotors tend to unbalance the motor, but that is just my theory as to why the engines seem to run smoother with noticably less vibration after using the powerfoam treatment.

I have not used Powerfoam to free a carbon-locked motor, but I seem to remember someone on the forum posting that they had successfully used PF to do just that.

Oh, and powerfoam sprays in a stream that then foams up, rather than a spray pattern, so it's easy to get into the spark plug holes and whatnot.
Hope that helps, I have every confidence in Amsoil powerfoam as I've been using the stuff for almost ten years without noting any negative effects other than the one time I mentioned which was my own fault for not driving the hell out of the RX4 after the treatment.

This procedure has been developed by trial and error as well as the time-honored SWAG method
(Scientific wild-*** guessing).

 

nice work i will try

 

where can you get it? like autozone or advance auto or what?

 

sweet know an amsoil distributer right in front of my base. so if anyone cant get ahold of some just pay for shipping and purchase and ill help out any fellow 7 owners.

 

Hey Guys,

WankelGuy sent this to me to be added to the Article a few weeks back, but with my last few weeks before exams I've been pressed thin for time.

Great info, thanks for sharing it And as promised, when the exams are over in mid-april I'll incorporate this into the article.

I hope my untimelieness didn't frustrate you into posting But again, great info, and the fact that it's from many first-hand experiences of yours makes it even better.

Jon

 

For an EFI engine.... do I just need to spray it into the spark plug holes for each individual rotor face? Or can I just do one face and then turn over a bunch of times?

 

I spun my engine over with the plugs out to get th foam out... didn't have a large smoke problem when I started it... good info if you've got cats or neighbors that get easily annoyed.

 

You need to make sure that all the rotor faces and apex seal slots get wetted down thoroughly.
I'd just spray it down the intake while cranking the motor over after disabling the ignition.

 

I suppose some clarifications are in order at this point.

First, don't be afraid of this procedure, Power Foam will not harm your catalytic converters or exhaust system.

Second, don't waste your time trying to get the stuff out by hand, the most effective cleaning is achieved when the motor is warm and the stuff gets BLOWN out the exhaust. When the motor is running the centrifugal force helps to thoroughly evacuate the apex seal slots, which is important.

Lastly, this is a pretty easy procedure, don't make it more complicated than it really is.

 

is iy alright to rotate crank by hand in opposite direction of rotation?

 

Sure, not a problem.

 

stupid question... how do I spray the stuff down the intake? i mean, do i need to remove the throttle body to have access to the port or something? I know it's simple, I just haven't messed around in there quite enough yet.

 

I could not find Amsoil foam, is SEAFOAM THE SAME STUFF? SOUNDS LIKE IT.

 

i used seafoam once for a different application, i dont think its the same thing, but it sure as hell smokes like crazy. look for the powerfoam. seafoam doesnt actually foam, if i remember correctly

 

It's easier to remove the 3 nuts by the throttle body and spray there. Better yet use some 44k in the gas tank with every oil change, it will clean everything from the tank to the engine to prevent the carbon build up. The power foam is great for getting the carbon off the rotors in a not start condition.
We are an amsoil dealer and ship daily.

 

This stuff?

 

YEP! it's great, been using it for years.

 

Whats 44k used for?

 

CANADIAN SOURCE:

Karbelt Kustoms: Oshawa and Pickering

 

should we put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the plug holes after we clean it?

 

Im going to start using the amsoil products this week. Ive heard lots of good things....

 

So this foam is mostly used for intense carbon build up... Eh Ill just run the **** out of it for an hour or so... everyday... for the rest of my life...

 

Its one thing to rev the engine to try to get as much carbon out, but if you already have some stuck, this is where chemicals come in.

 

soooo...here's a fun thought....what about the guys like me running side-drafts with wrap around intakes??... makes it a little harder to get the foam in there.

 

I was just thinking about that as i read along. I think we might have to bump the starter w/o ignition... that way there will be some suction pulling the foam in. IMO, of course.