how much power from stock internals
#3
Gone Race'n
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150hp is the theorized number on a stock port 12a. I have only seen one dyno sheet that shows more than that, 153hp with a Yaw power carb tuned by Paul for the sake of maximum horse power on a dyno.
Ryan
Ryan
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Gone Race'n
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Simple MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dual primary exhaust $700
Yaw power $350
Proper fuel delivery for the above carb $250
Underdrive pullies $110
Electric Fan $200
Some sort of direct fire ignition $150
So you could probably do it for $2300-$2500, including a set of jets for the carb and ample amounts of dyno time.
150hp is not a bolt-on number. You must do a lot of trial and error tunning to get that number.
Ryan
Dual primary exhaust $700
Yaw power $350
Proper fuel delivery for the above carb $250
Underdrive pullies $110
Electric Fan $200
Some sort of direct fire ignition $150
So you could probably do it for $2300-$2500, including a set of jets for the carb and ample amounts of dyno time.
150hp is not a bolt-on number. You must do a lot of trial and error tunning to get that number.
Ryan
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
Your estimate is way high.
You can make your own exhaust for much less than RB... won't be as quiet, but oh well.
Proper fuel delivery will NOT cost that much! Pump/regulator $75-80, then you need a gauge. The gauge will not cost $170!
I paid $110 for my fan. You can get better ones cheaper.
No need for underdrive pullies. The HP gain from removing the belts entirely is minimal (maybe 5hp) so the teoretical gan from an underdrive pulley is so low (maybe 1hp? maybe .5hp?) that it's not worth it and you'd be better off spending the money elsewhere.
Direct fire not necessary - the stock system will do. It'll just make life easier. (My setup, by the way, cost $250, not counting the greatly reduced spark-plug life)
You can make your own exhaust for much less than RB... won't be as quiet, but oh well.
Proper fuel delivery will NOT cost that much! Pump/regulator $75-80, then you need a gauge. The gauge will not cost $170!
I paid $110 for my fan. You can get better ones cheaper.
No need for underdrive pullies. The HP gain from removing the belts entirely is minimal (maybe 5hp) so the teoretical gan from an underdrive pulley is so low (maybe 1hp? maybe .5hp?) that it's not worth it and you'd be better off spending the money elsewhere.
Direct fire not necessary - the stock system will do. It'll just make life easier. (My setup, by the way, cost $250, not counting the greatly reduced spark-plug life)
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You go to your local race shop with flanges for your engine bought from Mazdatrix or RB. You should have already talked to them about primary diameter and length plus collector dimensions before you go there. Tell the fabricator to use a heavier gauge material for the tubes than he would use for a boinger. Peejay's strength is that he already is a welder if I remember right. (or was it pele?) The cost for such a header will be under $200....you could even push for $140 and get away with it. After that point, any muffler shop can complete the rest of the system. If you do go the custom fab route, I highly recommend you send the piece for a JetHot 2000 thermal coating. Stuff lasts forever. Cost me $110 when I did it, but that's going back at least 7 years now. The header coating outlasted three cars....
#12
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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JetHot2000 is now $200 + shipping to coat a 12a header. I'm sending mine out today.
Fabbing your own exhaust can be cheaper but will it last? That RB dual exhaust system is sturdy and solid. Will last a long time. And it fits right too. Tested and tuned, a true bolt in.
Underdrive pullys are used in road racing where you spin the motor over 7000rpms all day, so the water pump doesn't cavitate and the alternator doesn't get overspun. Not needed for street. The RB dual sheave main pulley is very nice, has timing marks on it already, and is smaller diameter to reduce water pump rpms, but you don't need both sheaves if you go electric fan and remove smog pump.
-bp-
Fabbing your own exhaust can be cheaper but will it last? That RB dual exhaust system is sturdy and solid. Will last a long time. And it fits right too. Tested and tuned, a true bolt in.
Underdrive pullys are used in road racing where you spin the motor over 7000rpms all day, so the water pump doesn't cavitate and the alternator doesn't get overspun. Not needed for street. The RB dual sheave main pulley is very nice, has timing marks on it already, and is smaller diameter to reduce water pump rpms, but you don't need both sheaves if you go electric fan and remove smog pump.
-bp-
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My "header" was fabb'd at Rotary Performance of Garland, TX and sent out for the coating prior to installation on their hi-po rebuild of my 12A. That was in '94 and the header still has no holes and is structurally sound. It has outlasted 3 cars. If it's built of heavy gauge pipe, it will last because of the coating...
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the 150 is the max the ports on the engine can handle, not the carb
The best way to 150hp (w/ stock port) is a good carb, proper fuel delivery, and exhaust. A little timing advance doesn't hurt either. Don't worry about ******* with your ignition, it doesn't matter; the stock system works just fine.
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Originally posted by nimrodTT
The 150 max is with a nikki carb, is it not? Strap on a 48IDA and youre going be capable of more power than that.
The 150 max is with a nikki carb, is it not? Strap on a 48IDA and youre going be capable of more power than that.
Ryan
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The 150 max is with a nikki carb, is it not? Strap on a 48IDA and youre going be capable of more power than that.
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I dunno about fuel injection, but I've heard that a stock-port 6 port 13B makes about 180hp with a good carb. I imagine stock fuel injection would be less due to the restrictive AFM, but I don't know **** about SE's.
#20
Originally posted by SilverRocket
Nope, not with stock port limiting things. But if you're talking about a wild ported motor, of course the IDA's gonna be capable of better power.
Nope, not with stock port limiting things. But if you're talking about a wild ported motor, of course the IDA's gonna be capable of better power.
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Well, I dunno... I've got a 48 DHLA Dellorto, and RB dynoed it at 154hp @ 7000rpm. Factor in that RB's probably being a little optimistic, most motors make about 150hp or so I hear. A Weber 48 isn't gonna be much different from a Dell 48 with a stock-port motor. So how do you think the IDA's gonna make more than 150hp?
See, the 150hp figure is pretty much the word as far as I can tell, representing the maximum that the stock ports are capable of flowing. If you say you think there's more there, you're going against the respected opinion, so let's see some proof of that.
See, the 150hp figure is pretty much the word as far as I can tell, representing the maximum that the stock ports are capable of flowing. If you say you think there's more there, you're going against the respected opinion, so let's see some proof of that.
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Its not just a flow issue with the stock ports... Remember, porting also affects intake/exhaust cycle timing and duration. THAT'S where most of the power comes from...
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Originally posted by RXcetera
Its not just a flow issue with the stock ports... Remeber, porting also affects intake/exhaust cycle timing and duration.
Its not just a flow issue with the stock ports... Remeber, porting also affects intake/exhaust cycle timing and duration.
I still believe that 150 HP is the magical number. All of the numbers generated above that have been on motors with tuned exhaust, and have been set up specificly for testing the limits of the stock ports, or for generating sales material.
Does anyone here have a dyno sheet that shows more than 125-130hp at the wheel for a stock port 12a? I only hit 112hp at the rear wheel with a stock Nikki.
Ryan
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Originally posted by nimrodTT
Stock ports of course, that's what this thread is all about. I think the ports are capable of more so let's see some proof.
Stock ports of course, that's what this thread is all about. I think the ports are capable of more so let's see some proof.
A guy after my own heart...