Regardless of where the alignment mark is or was on the pully if molested or not, if you follow this method youll be at TDC, once there mark your pully for TDC and erase the other marks???

 

Wacky,
I need to clarify on the aluminum flywheel situation,
When I remove the inspection plate from the top of the motor, am I looking for the flat spot of the counter weight or the actual "tip" that starts before the flat portion. Also, if looking at the motor from the "rear" of the car, is the keyway at 9 o'clock position as in your photo thus the starting "point" of the counter weight is at 12 o'clock?
Thanks again for all your help
Joe

 

I had a feeling about that someone will be asking. Once the flywheel is installed, the key should be facing the same direction as the front key. Looking at the flywheell from the tranny side, it should be at 3:00. Again, thats "rear view." Now for top view though the inspection plate (again, top of the bellhousing) the flat side of rear counterweight will be facing the exhaust side. On similar note, the tip should be in between the two engine bolts. Im glad I took px of my newly acquired engine. It has a aluminum flywheel instead of lightened steel.

Top view:


Side view:

 

I tried Jeff's wire method and it didn't work, it was a mess. The only thing I can figure is what you see in this gif:



As the rotor rotates there are three apex seals, and only one belongs to TDC. It's a pig in a poke, you've got a 33% chance of getting the right one. I was hoping for a bit more precision.

So then I went looking at the flywheel and Wacky's "driver's side inspection panel". This wasn't a simple proposition on my car since the intake manifold is in the way:



So instead I used the top inspection hole to find "TDC", the point at the middle of the flat place that Wacky was talking about:



Then I rotated the engine 90 degrees counterclockwise, so that the flat part would be in line with the engine casing, as in Wacky's instructions (a certain amount of Jeff's imagination is needed here, since we can't actually see the flywheel through the passenger's side inspection panel in this case):



Then put the dizzy in and set it to point at L1.

It worked, I got the timing back. Now I need to figure out how to tune my stripped down Nikki, which I'm beginning to think is not going to work.

Thanks Guys!

Ray

 

Here's the gif:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...le_anim_en.gif

 

A MILLION thanks Wackey
That is the best help I have reieved to date, such clarity and PICS to boot...
Thanks again
Joe

 

Glad it worked out for you guys.

 

wacky will usually help a fella out when he's bored. til then,..... good luck! lololol

 

So the wire method failed. Interesting to know. I got it to work the first time I tired it because I invented it. Anyway, glad you got your TDC figured out.

 

Well Jeff I'm not sure if it was the wire method or me that failed. This is what I did: I found the apex seal with the wire in the L2 plug hole, then checked the L1 hole with the wire to confirm I was on the rotor face. Then I pointed the dizzy button at dizzy position L1. The timing was lousy.

If you look at this animation:

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...le_anim_en.gif

it looks to me like only one of the apex seals corresponds to TDC. So you do have a 33% chance of getting it right the first time. If not, you should still be able to find the right apex seal in the L2 hole by repeating the wire procedure once or twice until you get the right seal lined up with the L2 spark plug hole.

So thanks Wacky and Jeff for the rotary education, if I've still got anything wrong please let us know.

Ray

 

Hmm, all the apex seals will point to TDC. It just depends on their position in the in the engine. Heh.

The wire method is best for installing a pulley. Then once the pulley is on right, you can stab the dizzy with confidence. You shouldn't try to correctly static time the dizzy with just the wire method.

 

With the wire method, as long as you feel the rotor in the front housing and none in the rear, that wil give you an idea that you're on the right track.

Line up the notches and PAY ATTENTION to the 10mm bolt near 12:00 position.

If that notches are nowhere near the timing pointer, refer to my other post on molested pulleys.

 

Hey wacky is this right? I am having some tuning issues and am still kinda scrathcing my head with this ****. cuz your method and jeffs i still think contradict.

 

You got it right. Now look at the 10mm bolt. it should be at 12.

 

Yup 12 o'clock. Jeffs method was very close

 

I'm glad it helped somebody.

 

lol. of course there will be a slightly difference. 12-A timing notch is exactly at 0 whereas with 13-B it varies, it could be 10 or whatever. Thats why I mentioned several times before that you have to look at the 10mm bolt.

 

I understand both methods. Both methods could have inconsistancies but i found out now that by doing both youll be dead on, or at least close enough.

 

Honestly, I feel that you dont understand the idea behind the "flywheel" and "spark plug" tricks. Just for clarification, either of the tricks will ensure that the front rotor is in the right position. If the timing marks are on top, then your next step is to line it up; if not, see prior posts on molested pulleys. Then line up the marks on the distributor gear and housing, and drop it in. I have been doing this for over a decade and it never fails me. If it doesnt work for you, then there is a missing piece to your puzzle.

 

This is the very first time ive ever messed with timing on a rotary. Thanks for all your help.

 

"Then line up the marks on the distributor gear and housing, and drop it in"

Wacky, this obvious step might be a source of a problem I'm having.

Does this mean that you point the rotor button to L1 when the dizzy is in place and the adjustment plate is located over the tightening hole? Or is there something more to it?

Thanks
Ray

 

yup, that can cause a problem. I will look at it tonight. I always remove the dizzy rotor when dropping the dizzy; both thumbs on the gear to prevent it from turning.

 

Thanks Wacky, I thought I had this step down from memory, but I'm having trouble with the timing so I want to be sure I've got this right. I'll also pull out the FSM and review the procedure.

 

I never bothered with the mark on the dizzy gear and the housing. I always line up the reluctor shaft from the top and drop it in.