how fast will this be?
10-17-04, 07:32 PM
#1
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how fast will this be?
I have a 1985 GSl and i am putting in the following: 13B engine, racingbeat header and hi performance exhaust, Holley carb and intake, racing beat flywheel and clutch, new struts and springs, andpossibly a stock turbo off a second gen w an innercooler. how fast do you think it will go? how bout 0-60 or 1/4 mile?with and without the turbo.
tell me what you think.
tell me what you think.
10-17-04, 08:02 PM
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stock turbo/manifold won't clear the holley intake manifold withouth a spacer, just a warning. With the turbo, too many variables to say. Without the turbo i'd guess a high 14.
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10-17-04, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985GSL
yeah it'll be couple weeks at the latest
You should feel lucky :P
10-18-04, 09:15 AM
#14
love the braaaap
I'd say mid 13's to low 14's with the turbo and a stock port. With porting and a turbo, expect mid to low 12's with enough tracktion. This all depends on the size of the port job, how much boost you plan to run, and how much traction you have.
10-18-04, 10:02 AM
#15
Go one set of things at a time.. if you try too many things at once you'll run your budget out on the main parts, and you won't have the money you need for all the little things that pop up.
How do you plan to mount and plumb the turbo with a holley? And why the holley?
I think that you should think a bit about your project. For a turbo 13b, it's easier to drop in a TII engine, if you're going to use a TII turbo and intercooler anyway. For a good engine/carb setup for N/A, Nikkis can be modded quite well. Blow through turbo prepped nikkis can be used, and they don't break the pocketbook as much. Holleys are good, but only if you're willing to really spend some serious time learning to tune them.
So I'd do the suspension, and consider what engine you want. If you have the money to dump now, just get a TII engine with a matching RB clutch and you'll save yourself plenty of trouble. Despite the wiring that comes with dropping a TII w/ ECU into an originally-carbed car, it's easier to do it that way than to take a 13b N/A and turbo it. The higher compression of an N/A 13b and it's different 6-port design makes for some big challenges. Go into the 2nd gen section and talk to Aaron_Cake if you want to know what adding a turbo to a 13b N/A takes!
Ask yourself what you want to get out of this car, and what you're going to use it for. Then ask yourself what your budget is. Try and find the spot where both of those meet. If you post that info, I'm sure we'd all give you help finding out what you should do
Jon
How do you plan to mount and plumb the turbo with a holley? And why the holley?
I think that you should think a bit about your project. For a turbo 13b, it's easier to drop in a TII engine, if you're going to use a TII turbo and intercooler anyway. For a good engine/carb setup for N/A, Nikkis can be modded quite well. Blow through turbo prepped nikkis can be used, and they don't break the pocketbook as much. Holleys are good, but only if you're willing to really spend some serious time learning to tune them.
So I'd do the suspension, and consider what engine you want. If you have the money to dump now, just get a TII engine with a matching RB clutch and you'll save yourself plenty of trouble. Despite the wiring that comes with dropping a TII w/ ECU into an originally-carbed car, it's easier to do it that way than to take a 13b N/A and turbo it. The higher compression of an N/A 13b and it's different 6-port design makes for some big challenges. Go into the 2nd gen section and talk to Aaron_Cake if you want to know what adding a turbo to a 13b N/A takes!
Ask yourself what you want to get out of this car, and what you're going to use it for. Then ask yourself what your budget is. Try and find the spot where both of those meet. If you post that info, I'm sure we'd all give you help finding out what you should do
Jon
10-18-04, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Go one set of things at a time.. if you try too many things at once you'll run your budget out on the main parts, and you won't have the money you need for all the little things that pop up.
How do you plan to mount and plumb the turbo with a holley? And why the holley?
I think that you should think a bit about your project. For a turbo 13b, it's easier to drop in a TII engine, if you're going to use a TII turbo and intercooler anyway. For a good engine/carb setup for N/A, Nikkis can be modded quite well. Blow through turbo prepped nikkis can be used, and they don't break the pocketbook as much. Holleys are good, but only if you're willing to really spend some serious time learning to tune them.
So I'd do the suspension, and consider what engine you want. If you have the money to dump now, just get a TII engine with a matching RB clutch and you'll save yourself plenty of trouble. Despite the wiring that comes with dropping a TII w/ ECU into an originally-carbed car, it's easier to do it that way than to take a 13b N/A and turbo it. The higher compression of an N/A 13b and it's different 6-port design makes for some big challenges. Go into the 2nd gen section and talk to Aaron_Cake if you want to know what adding a turbo to a 13b N/A takes!
Ask yourself what you want to get out of this car, and what you're going to use it for. Then ask yourself what your budget is. Try and find the spot where both of those meet. If you post that info, I'm sure we'd all give you help finding out what you should do
Jon
How do you plan to mount and plumb the turbo with a holley? And why the holley?
I think that you should think a bit about your project. For a turbo 13b, it's easier to drop in a TII engine, if you're going to use a TII turbo and intercooler anyway. For a good engine/carb setup for N/A, Nikkis can be modded quite well. Blow through turbo prepped nikkis can be used, and they don't break the pocketbook as much. Holleys are good, but only if you're willing to really spend some serious time learning to tune them.
So I'd do the suspension, and consider what engine you want. If you have the money to dump now, just get a TII engine with a matching RB clutch and you'll save yourself plenty of trouble. Despite the wiring that comes with dropping a TII w/ ECU into an originally-carbed car, it's easier to do it that way than to take a 13b N/A and turbo it. The higher compression of an N/A 13b and it's different 6-port design makes for some big challenges. Go into the 2nd gen section and talk to Aaron_Cake if you want to know what adding a turbo to a 13b N/A takes!
Ask yourself what you want to get out of this car, and what you're going to use it for. Then ask yourself what your budget is. Try and find the spot where both of those meet. If you post that info, I'm sure we'd all give you help finding out what you should do
Jon
:That was very well put Jon.
I think the most important thing that has been said is the last bit...
Take some time an designe a plan for your car based on what YOU want out of it.
Don't just go throw in a Turbo just because it's the cool thing to have...
Make a pland based on what you want out of the car and then see the plan through to the end
10-18-04, 03:24 PM
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okay heres the deal, I am only 15 turnin 16 in a couple of months.Although i am young i know way more than any of you would expect. i wanna take it aoutcrossing for soloII and i am still gonna be a daily driver. I also wanna be able to kick some *** with the street races also. as for a budget my parents are gonna pay for most of that **** (kind of a father son project) and maybe some more. oh as for the turbo, that was just a thought. We got it really cheap and the interior is perfect but the passenger side front Q-panel had a big dent in it but we got a new one. So basicly i want a kick-*** really fast car cause i have the taste for speed. I also want to go into a car-realated career such as a mechanic or somethin so i wanna learn from this also.
Thanks for the posts,
Charlie
Thanks for the posts,
Charlie
10-18-04, 03:42 PM
#18
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so basically you want it all just like everyone else; you still didn't get it. what is the MAIN FOCUS. you stated you would like an auto-x car. good, thats what i did for a while and it's fun as hell. so in that case, maybe a turbo isn't for you. you should just set up the car performance wise with all bolt ons and some tuning. THEN, mainly focus on suspension because you're really going to need that more than anything if you're serious about competing. i went with a turbo setup because my goals have changed. my car is now more intended for drag racing and a quick street car. with my latest setup it won't be too keen for auto-x anymore. you really need to focus on one main thing, if you want to have it all, plan to spend way more money than you probably want to put in to this.
10-18-04, 03:46 PM
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Mainly an auto cross car. and for suspenson what brands should i go with for each thing?
Last edited by 1985GSL; 10-18-04 at 03:49 PM. Reason: adding on
10-18-04, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985GSL
Mainly an auto cross car. and for suspenson what brands should i go with for each thing?
Well that depends. Do you want to get beat up on by stock Miatas in ES? Or slightly modded Miatas in CSP?
Last edited by CrazyJoe12a; 10-18-04 at 07:21 PM.
10-19-04, 05:49 PM
#23
Well in my opinion, the best "bang for your buck" suspension comes from matching RacingBeat springs with KYB GR-2 gas shocks. This is my "track and street" setup. I was aiming for a car that would hug the road, and do well in autocross, but also a car that I could take my g/f cruising in or take slightly longer trips in witout jarring my internal organs.
The reason I picked this setup is because the RacingBeat springs, while lower and stiffer than stock replacements, are not too low, and aren't bone stiff. They have a good effect on the car's handling, and RacingBeat has really done their homework in this area.
The KYB GR-2s aren't adjustibles like the Tokico Adjustible shocks, but they don't break the wallet nearly as much. Again, gas shocks are far superior to stock replacements, and these were designed with "spirited driving" in mind. Again, no internal organ jarring here either.
I have heard good things about Eibach springs, but even for me in Canada it was cheaper to get the RBs, which are arguably better for my purpose anyway.
For bushings, you want polyurethane or polygraphite on all the front, and rubber stock replacements in the back. The reason is that poly compounds are much stiffer, and while this is good in the front, making the back stiffer will worsen the already-present problem with it snapping out in high-G corners. For swaybars, you should get a good front one, but again leave the rear alone. Some people have even been known to remove the rear completely.
Never, EVER cut springs! Just don't do it. If you want to get lower, buy lowering springs because they're stiffer to make sure you don't get as much travel.
Don't forget your brakes! You have to stop in the stop box at the end of the course, so you want good breaks. If you have a GSL or GSL-SE, you have 4-wheel disc brakes. If you have an S or a GS, you have drums in the rear. Consider swapping out the rear end if you have drums for two reasons. 1: IF you have drums, you also have craptacular differential. The Limited Slip Diff that comes on the Disc Brake cars help you get better traction faster, and the discs help you stop sooner. You want to swap the rear end of the same year as your car, just the higer model, so that you can avoid problems in the mating up.
If you want to race in a lightly modded category, consider some improvements like having the stock carburetor rebuilt, switching to Direct fire ignition, replacing the mechanical fan with an electric fan and changing your air filter to K&N.
For oil, run non-synthetic. It's cheaper, and there's debate as to whether or not synthetic oil burns properly. Yes, you heard me, our cars are SUPPOSED to burn oil. It's the only way to get the apex seals lubricated. Oil is pumped in very small quantities into the carburetor to mix with the Air and Gas, and if that oil doesn't burn properly, it creates deposits. So save yourself the cash and potential problems, and use non-synthetic... Just change it often and use a good filter (there's an oil filter article around here somewhere). Use full-synthetic gear oil in places like the transmission and rear differential, since there it's not required/supposed to burn and synthetic withstands stresses longer.
Remember, keep these parts fresh:
1. Fuel Filter - 5 minutes and $5 saves a world of trouble and fuel flow problems
2. Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter
3. Spark Plugs - Use ONLY NGK. BR8EQ-14 or BR9EQ-14. The BR9s are better for highway, the BR8s better for city. Accept no substitute, wwilliam54 can tell you how Autolite plugs ruined his engine.
4. Distributor cap and associated rotor, spark plug wires
5. You might want to do a coolant flush if you can't remember the last time you did
6. Same for the tranny and rear differential fluid. RedLine MT-90 is the best for our transmissions
Well I hope that got you started on the right foot. Remember, performance is 10% Car and 90% Driver. Learn to drive properly and safely, and it'll save you time on the clock.
Jon
The reason I picked this setup is because the RacingBeat springs, while lower and stiffer than stock replacements, are not too low, and aren't bone stiff. They have a good effect on the car's handling, and RacingBeat has really done their homework in this area.
The KYB GR-2s aren't adjustibles like the Tokico Adjustible shocks, but they don't break the wallet nearly as much. Again, gas shocks are far superior to stock replacements, and these were designed with "spirited driving" in mind. Again, no internal organ jarring here either.
I have heard good things about Eibach springs, but even for me in Canada it was cheaper to get the RBs, which are arguably better for my purpose anyway.
For bushings, you want polyurethane or polygraphite on all the front, and rubber stock replacements in the back. The reason is that poly compounds are much stiffer, and while this is good in the front, making the back stiffer will worsen the already-present problem with it snapping out in high-G corners. For swaybars, you should get a good front one, but again leave the rear alone. Some people have even been known to remove the rear completely.
Never, EVER cut springs! Just don't do it. If you want to get lower, buy lowering springs because they're stiffer to make sure you don't get as much travel.
Don't forget your brakes! You have to stop in the stop box at the end of the course, so you want good breaks. If you have a GSL or GSL-SE, you have 4-wheel disc brakes. If you have an S or a GS, you have drums in the rear. Consider swapping out the rear end if you have drums for two reasons. 1: IF you have drums, you also have craptacular differential. The Limited Slip Diff that comes on the Disc Brake cars help you get better traction faster, and the discs help you stop sooner. You want to swap the rear end of the same year as your car, just the higer model, so that you can avoid problems in the mating up.
If you want to race in a lightly modded category, consider some improvements like having the stock carburetor rebuilt, switching to Direct fire ignition, replacing the mechanical fan with an electric fan and changing your air filter to K&N.
For oil, run non-synthetic. It's cheaper, and there's debate as to whether or not synthetic oil burns properly. Yes, you heard me, our cars are SUPPOSED to burn oil. It's the only way to get the apex seals lubricated. Oil is pumped in very small quantities into the carburetor to mix with the Air and Gas, and if that oil doesn't burn properly, it creates deposits. So save yourself the cash and potential problems, and use non-synthetic... Just change it often and use a good filter (there's an oil filter article around here somewhere). Use full-synthetic gear oil in places like the transmission and rear differential, since there it's not required/supposed to burn and synthetic withstands stresses longer.
Remember, keep these parts fresh:
1. Fuel Filter - 5 minutes and $5 saves a world of trouble and fuel flow problems
2. Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter
3. Spark Plugs - Use ONLY NGK. BR8EQ-14 or BR9EQ-14. The BR9s are better for highway, the BR8s better for city. Accept no substitute, wwilliam54 can tell you how Autolite plugs ruined his engine.
4. Distributor cap and associated rotor, spark plug wires
5. You might want to do a coolant flush if you can't remember the last time you did
6. Same for the tranny and rear differential fluid. RedLine MT-90 is the best for our transmissions
Well I hope that got you started on the right foot. Remember, performance is 10% Car and 90% Driver. Learn to drive properly and safely, and it'll save you time on the clock.
Jon
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