I have all the metal pieces off, but windows is glued down. any hints?

Trying to part this 85 out. so check my post in the classifieds if you need anything

 

Do you have a Haynes manual? it describes how to do it.

 

a heat gun should work also

 

A realy realy hammer will work also. J\K

 

piano wire >*

or a guitar string

 

Be VERY VERY VERY VERY!!!! careful when putting ANYTHING underneath it, they are REALLY easy to crack

I think a heat gun is the best option by far.

 

Take off the throtle cable and strip off the outer shell, Cut off both ends. use a razer knife to make a hole in the rubber that keeps the glass down, run the cable half through the hole. use a pair of vice grips on each end of the cable, Get a friend and do a sawing motion while pulling the cable into uncut sections of the rubber.

 

Then how are you gonna use your car after you get the windshield back in? Just use piano/guitar string as said above......

 

He is parting the car so it does not matter, Last one I did I used the Hot Start assist cable, Just could not remember that when I typed the above. You may have piano/guitar strings around but for me it is a 30 minuate trip to town to buy them.

 

ahhh, I see

 

get a screw driver nice and hot (red hot) and poke it through the plastic rubber stuff and then run your piano wire or what ever through just make sure u have xtra they tend to break if u get em too hot but thats how we did it on a few other cars and the 7 but a shot gun works nicely hahahaha

 

wire it is then...thanks everyone.

 

Patience. I broke the first 3 I tried to take out. Make sure you run the wire all the way around the windshield, it takes very little pressure to crack a window. The auto prats stores sell the wire, it can dull quickly. Cut the wire as long as the as the windshield is wide, get a friend and 2 visegrips, one inside the car and one out.

The first one I got out without breaking, I put in the livingroom out of the way to be safe. That was until the fan fell out of the window.

 

WHAT!!!!!!! no one liked me idea?????

Dan

 

Sounds fun and fast, but the clean-up sucks.

 

Plus, it takes a long time to glue all the pieces back together.

I have done three with piano wire. Chipped one which later turned into a crack. Eastwood sells a nice little tool for this purpose.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...d+removal+tool

 

yeah. i tried it once. thought i was doing good. until.......ckrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrrrrrrrrk whoops. so the hammer was fun. clean up on a parts car? hell no.

 

Actually, after breaking them by accident, I used my foot.

 

Please... just a quick hijack.

Dan Atkins,

Have been to your sight and not much info on the 5" and 7" superchargers. Can you email me the applications and results expected if going on a rally ported 13B 4 port w/ 3mm apex seals , currently with sidedraft mikuni carb ? I think SC is the way I want to go. Turbo seems more complicated and less exotic. How much boost for the 5" and 7" ? Which is better for my existing engine ? I only want 6 to 10 of boost even if more is available. Please reply or email davidcgrimes@yahoo.com

Thanks.

 

Dan, I've always preferred the "large brick" method. It's much more efficient method for large windsheilds.

 

a 7" charger flows moor air than a 5" the charger I would use for your application the 7"charger.
We can do 10 PSI of boost level with T2 rotors no problem if you have N\A rotors than you will only be able to go to 6 PSI safeley for a N\A rotors.

Dan