Ok, i have a 600cfm 4160 on my stock 84 gsl. Im going to order up about 3-4 sets of jets for this for some fine tuning. Im thinking maybe 52-58 or so for the sizes...any recommendations? I don't want to waste money on jets that are way off

thanks for the help! and don't tell me this carb is too big, i've heard it already

 

is it a racing beat carb? or a box carb?

 

its not the racing beat one.

 

well. i would start on changing the cam first. i use the green one. then i would go between 56 and 62 for primary jets.start with 58's and work from there. your secondary plat should be a #8 maybe #7. would also change the secondary spring the stiffer yellow one. ( you can work around the springs they are all different to tune depending on the engine). good luck.

my engine is a street ported, my holley took awhile to tune. i've got 67's on primaries, #10 on secondaries, green cam, stiffer yellow spring. also put a spacer between the holley and intake manifold.

 

what size spacer are you using kettleman?

 

i'm actually using 2 of the kinda 1/2 inch ones you can buy at any store. i also have the inside coned out of the intake. it's supposed to give you a little more, yet ruin the low idle. mine still idles fine at 1500 though.

 

Sorry for waking an old thread, but I'm running a 465 com racing beat Holley on my stock 12a and using size 52 jets for the primary bowl and a 59 plate for the secondary bowl and it seems to love it after properly tuning it. (Ran the same carb and jets on my large street port 76-78 cosmo 13B and ran wonderfully and made great power too (154WHP and 136 Torque). Hope this info helps someone

 

Old thread waking is good! I have an 85 RX7 GSL with the racing beat carb setup in it. I am trying to get it tuned to run. Right now I can get it to start roughly and as long as I'm giving it gas it stays running. It will not idle. What plugs did you end up using? Standard copper or racing beat recommended Iridium? I have to check my jets to see whats in there currently... they should all be whatever RB provided with the kit. What power valve are you using? Do you know roughly how many turns on the needle screws you started with to get it running?

D

 

im using standard ngk plugs specified for my motor from oreilys. I’m not using a power valve (tried for 1 day, car ran amazingly for that 1 day, carb **** itself the next day, switch back to the block off and never had a problem again). I’m currently running the same carb with same jets and #8 secondary plate (was told it was size 59 previously, but not sure about the accuracy of that) on my 76-78 large streetport 13B with S5 NA rotors. I rebuilt the carb due to some bad gaskets and fuel leaks and reset the carb to mechanical 0 as per the instructions included in the rebuild kit off the shelf at oreilys. The only thing I did differently was turning the mixture screws out 1 more turn than the instructions said to and from there I simply tuned the carb as you would for any standard holley for any other engine. After getting it dialed in, idle set and timing set as per Racing beat’s timing chart my engine is now very responsive and has great low end torque (I was just as surprised about the torque). I’m nearly 1/2 way through break in on this engine so once that’s done I’ll get it on the dyno and see what the results are, but as of now I’m very happy with it

 

I'm running the standard plugs as well. How many turns did you do with the needles. Standard it to start with 1.5 turns and adjust from there.... so you are at 2.5? I have the supplied power valve in the carb but could try taking it out and plugging it. Standard jets supplied by racing beat. So I have it running at this point after removing a few additional things left that should have been removed during the install. The car will not idle. It stays running as long as I give it gas but will stall as soon as I stop. I have tried adjusting the idle up to keep the car going but even with the screw all the way clockwise it still won't stay running. I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak? Possibly clogged fuel filter? Any insight is appreciated!

D

 

i went to 1.5 turns and then 1 more turn just to be safe. As for fuel pressure mine started dying at idle unless I gave it gas and it turned out to be my original stock fuel pump failing pushing only 2psi (free flow) I replaced it with a 4-7 psi edelbrock pump from oreilys (8psi free flow) and used the dial regulator they have and set it to its max (5.5psi) which got me between 6-6.5psi. I also bypassed the rollover safety thing near the fuel pump because it caused a blockage during testing. I would also ditch the power valve, it isn’t doing anything beneficial and may cause problems later if it hasn’t already

 

So I found that the existing fuel pump was bad and not providing adequate pressure so I replaced it. Have 5-6 PSI of fuel pressure now which is good. I also took the carb off to look at the jets, power valve, and secondary plate. I have 63 jets (which I think are too high), 6.5 power valve, and a #8 secondary plate. At this point I know I need to reduce the jets prior to putting this thing back together. Looking at your setup you have 52 jets with no power valve which may be a good place to start although I'm in FL and your in Utah we definitely will have different temp range and elevation.

 

not sure of the jets that's in mine but i do know they have no power valve in them.

 

start with 52s and see how it does, if it’s not quite right then maybe try a size or 2 higher and if you can get a consistent 6 psi+ then you should be good there.

 

Thanks for your insight. I will let you know how it goes.

D

 

Installed the 52 jets. Still stalls at Idle. Rev's great while giving it gas but still stalls and won't idle. Could be a vacuum leak? With that being said there really isn't much left to test for a vacuum. Just the hose from trailing dist and the hose from brake booster to intake manifold.

 

idle circuit maybe dirty.... carb cleaner .... take it apart spray out not in

 

..

 

sounds like what mine did when I replaced my primary bowl with a newer one that uses an umbrella thing for the accelerator pump instead of a check ball. Started and ran if I gave it gas, but died immediately at idle. Also do you have both leading and trailing T’d to one line going to the carb?

 

I just had the carb out and everything is clean.

I did try this prior to swapping jets but haven't tried it since the swap. I will check that next. I'm thinking of hooking up a vacuum gauge inline from the manifold to the brake booster to see what kind of vacuum I'm getting. I guess I can hook it up inline with the trailing/leading dist vacuum as well and test there. This has been a challenge.

 

Hello, I am looking at your set up as described because i also have a 465 CFM Racing Beat Holley .
Did you keep the power valve and if yes which size?
I currently have a 8.5 PV with 50 main jets, the engine is very slightly street ported, and It runs ok but not great and I feel I am too rich, thinking of lowering jet size a bit. But I see you have 52, so i am thinking either I m going the wrong direction or you may have a plug instead of PV?
I have a vacuum gauge on a T from the brake assist vac, and it reads 15 at idle, but the hand vibrates and it is not normal either. Engine was juts rebuild and works great but I think my intake needs a bit of work. Not a fan of the RB holley but that s what I have and I am going to make the best of it!
Thanks !

 

I don't use a power valve, just a block off. I used a power valve once on a stock port 12a and ran great for 24 hours, then just **** the bed out of nowhere. put a block off back on and ran like normal again. Still running the same size 52s on primaries on my current large streetport 13B as well as block off (have about 2,000 miles on the engine and ran solid since initial start). Zero issues and also still have one vacuum line in a 2 to 1 with the solenoids as well